Going high tech. Need advice.

[mattcham]

After researching high tech setups for the past months I'm ready to take the plunge. Just have a few more questions:

I have the option of three different grades of CO2, 99.9%, 99.8%, or 99.5%. Does it matter which one I get?

What is the approximate weight of an empty 10 pound size steel tank? What about if aluminum tank? Just wondering if aluminum has a major benefit because my nearest gas store does not fill empty tanks, they only swap tanks, and only steel tanks.

Which drop checker do you prefer? The nice ones seem to go for $50. Are any of the cheaper Amazon.com offerings any good?

Oxygen dissolves more readily in cooler water than warmer water. Is this also true for CO2? Should I keep my tank at 74F instead of 78F or 80F?

What is the most effective lighting siesta period for algae prevention? Is there any consensus on which is best?
4 hrs on, 2 hrs off, 4 hrs on.
4 hrs on, 3 hrs off, 4 hrs on.
5 hrs on, 3 hrs off, 5 hrs on.
5 hrs on, 4 hrs off, 5 hrs on.
(Assuming 85-95 PAR at my tank height)

Thanks in advance!

 

[Mr. Nowhere]

Are you referring to a drop checker or a bubble counter? I got the fluval plastic bubble counter and it works just fine, really all its used for is to hold a little water. I also got a cheap drop checker off amazon that works fine aswell.

 

[Fishperson]

I've always used a cheap drop checker and it has worked fine I guess. For the siesta I've always heard the second or third options.

 

[mattcham]

Thanks. I'll get the fluval drop checker from amazon. Some of the fancy sculpted glass drop checkers are $50...

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Aquarium Advice mobile app

 

[Mr. Nowhere]

Ya the little fluval one def works fine

 

[Mebbid]

A full 10lb steel tank will weight probably around 30 lbs. Just go with what's more cost effective for you. You have to deal with moving a co2 tank maybe 1 - 2 times a year.