Guys please confirm what im dreading? ich?

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Ruffers99

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So i got a replacement GBR for the one i lost last w/e and I acclimated correctly, but he has seemed very timid with fins clamped for the most part, just looking around now and I see the following on the other ram and the clowns ... the tetra's don't seem to have any but I am guessing I should just crank the temp up? let me know what you guys think pleaseeee... :(:(
 

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86 deg and leave it there for a week after the spots are gone
also good aeration and lots of water changes
No salt because of the clown
and if you end up going meds be careful with the clown.
 
86 deg and leave it there for a week after the spots are gone
also good aeration and lots of water changes
No salt because of the clown
and if you end up going meds be careful with the clown.

Thanks mike, raise temp slowly over what period? im at 78.5 right now.
 
I would say slowly over the course of a day. I did 2 weeks of 88 degrees and now I am spot free. I heard 88 is better than 86 because 86 is to close to the lowwer limit

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I would say slowly over the course of a day. I did 2 weeks of 88 degrees and now I am spot free. I heard 88 is better than 86 because 86 is to close to the lowwer limit

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I agree as long as your stock can handle the extra 2 deg.

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I agree as long as your stock can handle the extra 2 deg.

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This is true. I found out that ghost shrimp do not handle the heat. Had 6 of my 7 die during the treatment. It stinks, but for $.39 per shrimp it isn't the end of the world.

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current stock ==
3 guppy's
2 GBR
2 clowns
4 ornate tetra
1 kuhli
1 emperor tetra

86 or 88 ??
 
your tetras are an issue with the high temps.
I would do 86 and keep an eye on them. also the higher temps causes the water to hold less o2 so run air stones if you have them or lower the water level so the filter is agitating the surface as much as possible
 
your tetras are an issue with the high temps.
I would do 86 and keep an eye on them. also the higher temps causes the water to hold less o2 so run air stones if you have them or lower the water level so the filter is agitating the surface as much as possible

ok thanks will keep an eye on the tetra's at 86. I hope (based on the previous comments) that 86 is enough to clear it.
I have a couple of other questions while treating this.. :ermm:

  • Feed as normal?
  • ok to do wc if nitrates require it and I try to match tank temp?
 
ok thanks will keep an eye on the tetra's at 86. I hope (based on the previous comments) that 86 is enough to clear it.
I have a couple of other questions while treating this.. :ermm:

  • Feed as normal?
  • ok to do wc if nitrates require it and I try to match tank temp?

Yes to both
and I would do as many water changes as possible with gravel vac. It will decrease the amount of ich in the tank when in the free swimming stage
 
Yes to both
and I would do as many water changes as possible with gravel vac. It will decrease the amount of ich in the tank when in the free swimming stage

ok thanks, cant believe it got this in there ... :( took so long to cycle and get right.. im not going back to that lfs.

Lastly, i just want to through this out there. Not wanting to start a brawl, but I was planning in the beginning to buy a UV for my tank, but I held off due to finances at the time. I think it may have or could help with these types of outbreaks, especially when ich has its free-swimming stage??
 
ok thanks, cant believe it got this in there ... :( took so long to cycle and get right.. im not going back to that lfs.

Lastly, i just want to through this out there. Not wanting to start a brawl, but I was planning in the beginning to buy a UV for my tank, but I held off due to finances at the time. I think it may have or could help with these types of outbreaks, especially when ich has its free-swimming stage??

This I don't know the answer too
 
UV sterilizers and diatom filters offer assistance in controlling ICH. Both methods will kill off the free floating stage.


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UV sterilizers and diatom filters offer assistance in controlling ICH. Both methods will kill off the free floating stage.


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right ok as I thought, and not just ich, but could help with other issues as I know that the fish could be susceptible to other infections when you get an outbreak of ich.

I think im gona get one regardless. thanks for all your comments guys. I hope this clears soon and I dont loose any tank mates due to high temps..

:(
 
is a clown loach more sensitive than a pleco?
I started using a dash of aquarium salt with my water changes and my snails, shrimp, plants and pleco all seem fine. Its like a 1/4 dose tho. It could be coincidence but it really seems its helped some issues I was having.


for the OP get some Seachem stress guard plus and started double dosing daily.

When I had either some minor ich or fin rot I started using it with the bit of salt and all of my fish seem great after a week or so.
 
Yes to both
and I would do as many water changes as possible with gravel vac. It will decrease the amount of ich in the tank when in the free swimming stage


I disagree with doing any water changes. It doesn't matter how many parasites are in the tank, they will all die from the heat. There's really no point whatsoever to remove them prior to them being killed.

Water changes do not make the heat treatment any more effective, though it's possible for them to make the treatment less effective.

UV is an extremely expensive means of dealing with ich. Once the heat treatment is complete there will be no ich in your tank, and it will continue like that till you re introduce it with fish or plants.
 
right ok as I thought, and not just ich, but could help with other issues as I know that the fish could be susceptible to other infections when you get an outbreak of ich.



I think im gona get one regardless. thanks for all your comments guys. I hope this clears soon and I dont loose any tank mates due to high temps..



:(


It needs to be a good unit to deal with that if you get one. I run one which I thought was half decent and ich, bacterial / fungal infections have still occurred.
 
I disagree with doing any water changes. It doesn't matter how many parasites are in the tank, they will all die from the heat. There's really no point whatsoever to remove them prior to them being killed.

Water changes do not make the heat treatment any more effective, though it's possible for them to make the treatment less effective.

UV is an extremely expensive means of dealing with ich. Once the heat treatment is complete there will be no ich in your tank, and it will continue like that till you re introduce it with fish or plants.

And how would clean fresh water make the treatment less effective? That makes absolutely no sense. I still stand by what I said. The only way this would affect treatment is with meds.

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is a clown loach more sensitive than a pleco?
I started using a dash of aquarium salt with my water changes and my snails, shrimp, plants and pleco all seem fine. Its like a 1/4 dose tho. It could be coincidence but it really seems its helped some issues I was having.


for the OP get some Seachem stress guard plus and started double dosing daily.

When I had either some minor ich or fin rot I started using it with the bit of salt and all of my fish seem great after a week or so.

ok thanks Nick I will look into getting some stress guard if that will help the fish while i am treating this.

I was also reading this which seemed a pretty good write up on badmans forum wrt ich and its was suggested to use salt also (even with CL). so I guess i will get some of that also.

As to the water changes, I was only going to do them if my water parameters required me to do them??

And to the UV unit. It wasn't so much as to treat ich specifically, just more of a preventative tool that was hooked up when I needed it (such as when I introduce new fish or I am dealing with any kind of illness in the tank).
This is the uint that I spec'ed out for my filter flow.


so in summary:

  • Temp up to 86 (will try 88, but may loose tetra's)
  • Dose w/aquarium salt as per above article.
  • keep the lights off
  • dose w/stress guard
  • wait around 10 days to make sure it clears.

did I miss anything? thanks guys!!
 
And how would clean fresh water make the treatment less effective? That makes absolutely no sense. I still stand by what I said. The only way this would affect treatment is with meds.

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Because it opens up the possibility of temperature changes, compromising the treatment. Many proponents of the heat treatment advocate no water changes during the treatment. It's just an unnecessary variable to add to the mix. Often those that have trouble with the heat treatment are doing water changes.
 
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