Hello! Newcommer ich problem!

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Mix with soft water. RO is a common choice. Previous link will help with some basics of water chemistry. You need gh/kh test kit and a tds meter though.
Forgive my haste. I only care too much. . .

Edit-
Deionising resin, a di filter may be all you need for your set up. RO may be too excessive, do you plan any more tanks etc in the future?
 
De ionising resin, types, explanation.

The terms ion exchange, deionization and demineralization are often used synonymously to refer to the same process. However, deionization and demineralization may be accomplished by technologies other than ion exchange (see reverse osmosis). Ion exchange is a process used extensively in nuclear facilities, industrial processes and medical and pharmaceutical operations to control the purity and pH of water by removing undesirable ions and replacing them with acceptable ones. Specifically, it is the exchange of ions between a solid substance (called a resin) and an aqueous solution, typically municipal, potable water but it frequently involves process or even waste water (e.g., the plating industry). Depending on the identity of the ions that a resin releases to the water, the process may result in water purification or in control of the concentration of a particular ion in a solution. An ion exchange is the reversible exchange of ions between a liquid and a solid. This process is generally used to remove undesirable ions from a liquid and substitute acceptable ions from the solid (resin). The devices in which ion exchange occurs are commonly called demineralizers. This name is derived from the term demineralize, which means the process whereby impurities present in the incoming fluid (water) are removed by exchanging impure ions with H and OH ions, in the formation of pure water. H+ and OH- are present on the sites of resin beads contained in the demineralizer tanks or columns.

Ion Exchange Resins:
Cation Exchange Resins vs. Anion Exchange Resins
There are two general types of ion exchange resins: those that exchange positive ions, called cation exchange resins, and those that exchange negative ions, called anion exchange resins. A cation is an ion with a positive charge. Common cations include Ca+2, Mg+2, Fe+2, and H+1. A cation resin is one that exchanges positive ions. An anion is an ion with a negative charge. Common anions include Cl-1, SO4-2, and OH-1 . An anion resin is one that exchanges negative ions. Chemically, both types are similar and belong to a group of compounds called polymers, which are extremely large molecules that are formed by the combination of many molecules of one or two compounds in a repeating structure that produces long chains. A demineralizer is a vessel, usually with a volume of several cubic feet, that contains the resin. A demineralizer may contain an intimate mixture of both cation exchange resins and anion exchange resins and is called a mixed bed. Two-bed demineralizers have two vessels, the first containing cation resin followed by a separate vessel containing anion resin.

Physically, ion exchange resins are formed in the shape of very small beads, called resin beads, with an average diameter of about 0.5 millimeters. Wet resin has the appearance of damp, transparent, amber sand and is insoluble in water, acids, and bases. The ratio is normally 2 parts cation resin to 3 parts anion resin.

Alkaline water is negatively charged, acid water is positively charged.
 
Another thing then to consider is 3 frogs in a 2.5g tank... usually the filters in those tanks are very small and have very little room for bio-media which means if your frogs/food/etc., is producing more ammonia than there is BB to process it then you'll always have some ammonia. There are many things that could be causing ammonia.
 
Another thing then to consider is 3 frogs in a 2.5g tank... usually the filters in those tanks are very small and have very little room for bio-media which means if your frogs/food/etc., is producing more ammonia than there is BB to process it then you'll always have some ammonia. There are many things that could be causing ammonia.

Yes, the frog link page suggests 1G per frog. You could feed less, I'm not sure what amount or what type of food frogs eat. It suggests also no filter be necessary on small tanks <3G just a weekly water change. You may be over feeding the tank, as the article would suggest more ammonia is created by the food than by the frog itself.
If it were my tank, less food, two water changes splitting the week to allow for over stock. Test over the course of one week.

Edit-two small feeds are easier on the system than one feed of equal weight.
 
In about 2 weeks my husbands family will be coming to visit us I asked his sister to pick two tanks I left at my parents house. One is a 2 gallon the other a 5 gallon. Once they get here I plan on moving one of the frogs and maybe even both the snails into the 2 gallon (unless I put the snails into the 10 gal)
The 5 gal will be a fry tank since one of my platys looks pregnant she's getting bigger. I will provably get another small tank maybe one gal or so for a sick tank. Other than that I do not plan on getting more tanks or new fish. Just accommodating the little guys I have now.

As far as soft water and ro and deionization and demineralization, that stuff is all new to me and all is another language. I'm doing my best to follow and take it all in but I'm not going to lie I'm a bit lost in all the words.

I just did my second water change on the platy tank and a 75% change on my frog tank. I'll check the readings in 2 or so hrs. Maybe wait until morn to see where everything is at.
Let's hope I get this right!

Froggys are swimming around right now and active, I just fed them as well. (I usually feed them once ever 2-3 days 2 pellets each) platys right now, my little girls are picking at the bottom for left over food. The boys are chasing each other...they don't nip at each other but seem to like getting on one another's nerves. It's pretty funny to watch, they do not seem stressed right now.
 
If things seem happy, wait for the tanks. Water chemistry took me months to understand. I would be commonly described, thick as (expletive)
It's pretty much the only thing I've applied my mind to.

I felt that if I really wanted to keep fish, fish live in water, what is water?

Then it kind of went crazy. Trust me, I'm daft as a brush!
 
Are you using strip tests or liquid ones? Strip tests are notoriously inaccurate. Just an idea?

I am at the moment (strips) for no2 no3 ph gh and kh

They've seem to do fine except for ph it gets a little fuzzy. I do use a liquid tester for my ammonia. I just need to get liquid testers for everything else :/

I should mention this, I've been watching my fish. Literally sitting In front of their tank monitoring them 3 of them (1 male and the 2 females are swimming and acting fine) my males stopped chasing each other but my high fin platy (other male) keeps doing this weird thing he'll swim around really fast up and down the side of the tank kind of frantically. The others aren't soon this. (They do swim kind of fast every once and a while) but he's doing it quite a bit tonight.
He's calmed down a bit now but will still do it. I wonder if he still has ich (none have spots) or the water temp? Mating? Or nitrite issues? :/
He's kind or freaking me
 
The first sign of ich or most other similar skin ailments, the fish will seem to flick itself normally off of the substrate. Scratching without fingers.
Hyperactivity?
Sometimes my clowns go absolutely bonkers, swimming in a fashion that I've never seen before. I'm used to it now. When it first happened I watched the tank all night, checked and triple checked. Nothing, just barmy fish! The Cory's did it, my almorhae did it.
They know you. Normally, with good care, things like ich only come in on fresh fish. If it's out of the system and you do everything right, parasites don't materialise from nowhere. Bacteria is different.
He may just be having a mad moment, my dog for example sits or lies, does nothing, then for no reason at all, gets up runs all around the house and garden for ten minutes, then he just sits back down again?

I still can't work that one out?
 
The first sign of ich or most other similar skin ailments, the fish will seem to flick itself normally off of the substrate. Scratching without fingers. Hyperactivity? Sometimes my clowns go absolutely bonkers, swimming in a fashion that I've never seen before. I'm used to it now. When it first happened I watched the tank all night, checked and triple checked. Nothing, just barmy fish! The Cory's did it, my almorhae did it. They know you. Normally, with good care, things like ich only come in on fresh fish. If it's out of the system and you do everything right, parasites don't materialise from nowhere. Bacteria is different. He may just be having a mad moment, my dog for example sits or lies, does nothing, then for no reason at all, gets up runs all around the house and garden for ten minutes, then he just sits back down again? I still can't work that one out?

I'll keep an eye out for now, they do get excited when I get really close to the tank since that means food haha. My dang heater keeps cutting on though so I feel something up with it. I'll have to watch that too! As for your dog :) I had a grump pup in sc he's 11 or so I think now but he would do the same exact thing! Animals are just weird sometimes :p

He's deff not itching though. Just acting crazy!
 
Ich is none to attach to the inside of the gills. Your still treating for ich right it's takes atleast two weeks. Depending on how high it is you will hit a different stage of ich. But basically. The ich once hatched from the substrate swims up and attaches to a new host. Breaks into it and starts eating off the fish. When it is full of nutrients it breaks off sinks to to substrate and reproduces. The ich can live for 3 days without attaching to a new host. and I believe the stage on the fish is two days. So if you have ich already attached to a fish it will break off and reproduces that takes 2-3 days. Then the eggs hatch in a few days float around for three days and try to find a host to reproduce. Im probably off with the days but you need to keep it up for 2 weeks for it to go through the ich cycle.. That's why I mentioned reading up the life cycle of ich. It is a lot easier to treat ich if you know it
 
Ich is none to attach to the inside of the gills. Your still treating for ich right it's takes atleast two weeks. Depending on how high it is you will hit a different stage of ich. But basically. The ich once hatched from the substrate swims up and attaches to a new host. Breaks into it and starts eating off the fish. When it is full of nutrients it breaks off sinks to to substrate and reproduces. The ich can live for 3 days without attaching to a new host. and I believe the stage on the fish is two days. So if you have ich already attached to a fish it will break off and reproduces that takes 2-3 days. Then the eggs hatch in a few days float around for three days and try to find a host to reproduce. Im probably off with the days but you need to keep it up for 2 weeks for it to go through the ich cycle.. That's why I mentioned reading up the life cycle of ich. It is a lot easier to treat ich if you know it

It's been around 2 weeks now since I had been doing treatment I just put the carbon filter back in and have kept the temp up in my tank this last week. I haven't seen any sign of ich in my tank for a week now, the ich came off my fish last week or so. Given as many days as it's been without sign of any I think I'm in the clear. If it reappears I will know what to do but everyone is super healthy and looks great I keep a close eye on everyone since my cycle has hit the nitrite part of the cycle.
 
It's been around 2 weeks now since I had been doing treatment I just put the carbon filter back in and have kept the temp up in my tank this last week. I haven't seen any sign of ich in my tank for a week now, the ich came off my fish last week or so. Given as many days as it's been without sign of any I think I'm in the clear. If it reappears I will know what to do but everyone is super healthy and looks great I keep a close eye on everyone since my cycle has hit the nitrite part of the cycle.

No one is flashing anymore are they? Or quickly darting around?
 
Everyone is doing awesome. I just have a cycle out of mess. They don't show any signs of still having ich, no itching on plants or decor no flashing. One of the males is a little crazier than the other and likes to swim rapidly around the tank everyone else is calm. One of my platys even had babies last night. Now just to get the levels under control :/
 
The levels will sort themselves out over time, carry on as you are!
Should take a few weeks, remember the system took a knock at the start, that's a delay at the end. It's good nature to be so concerned, that will help you in the long run. Ammonia goes then nitrite goes then you are sorted! The time difference at each stage is about the same. (y)
 
Again, I appreciate everyone's quick responses and patients as well! I know I ask about a million and one questions. Thank you so much
 
I see your other post, trust me, I will never give any advice that I wouldn't use myself or that would jeopardise the livestock in your tank. If I didn't care I wouldn't reply. If I thought it would kill any creature on earth I would not advise it.

I know how you are feeling, we have all done it! Well those of us who rushed, it's an important lesson in Fishkeeping and one I'm sure you will not forget.

I was exactly the same as you on the day I started out with fish. Apprehensive and a little nervous. Take notes on the changes. If you like I will photograph and compile my first few weeks notes so you may read it! It will take some time but if it brings your mind to rest. I will do it. I will keep a check on you here. It just takes a little patience for the bacs to settle out. I PROMISE YOU.
Please have faith in me!

I am conscious of this thread and make a point of keeping a close eye on it. I have done since day 1.

It will get better, I promise. I can't type it any other way!
 

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