horrible green water algae problem

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I definitely don't think the fish is in any risk of growing deformed yet, as there's still plenty of space for him to navigate the tank, turn around, etc.

I will only be selling him to a reputable fish store that I regularly shop at. Obviously, I can't control who buys him unless I found a friend to take him, but I can at least be sure that he is in good hands at the store and will be put in a large enough tank.
 
What I don't understand is that how is my bioload somehow too great? I had no trouble keeping the tank clear prior to adding the driftwood, plants, substrate, CO2, and pc light. My tank should have re-cycled again by now, and yet the ammonia and nitrate levels remain very high, despite repeated water changes. This makes no sense, especially considering plants help with filtration.
 
ZakTheRipper said:
What I don't understand is that how is my bioload somehow too great? I had no trouble keeping the tank clear prior to adding the driftwood, plants, substrate, CO2, and pc light. My tank should have re-cycled again by now, and yet the ammonia and nitrate levels remain very high, despite repeated water changes. This makes no sense, especially considering plants help with filtration.

Feb 21st is when you started this thread. If you indeed killed all your bacteria in your filter and also changed out all the substrate, you essentially started with a new tank less than 3 weeks ago. I can completely understand how you are still seeing high ammonia and nitrIte levels. Give it a couple more weeks and you should be fine. For now I'd cut back on the feedings as much as possible and make sure all fish waste is removed from the tank as soon as you see it.
 
I just checked my tank, and I am happy to see the following values:
NH3=0 ppm
NO2=~.7 ppm
NO3=~80 ppm
pH=~6.1
kH<1 (probably very close to zero)

Water is still a disgusting pea soup green with some cloudiness. Is a pwc recommended at this point, and if so, by what % and should I gravel vac at all?

I will try to increase the kH of my water using Kent pH Stable and alkaline buffer.

What is the best pH range to keep for the plants? I know my fish prefer a slightly low pH, and plants do as well, right? Around 6.5?
 
OK, you've got 3 major problems all with easy fixes.

Problem #1, your nitrAtes are REALLY high for fish (like to keep these below 30ppm if possible, some say below 20ppm). You need to do a large PWC ASAP, and probably a couple of large water changes. Three 50% PWC's will get you from 80ppm to ~10ppm which is much more healthy for the fish, and your plants should be fine since your Oscar and Pleco will produce a lot of waste bringing that nitrAte number back up quickly (plants prefer 20-30ppm nitrAte from what I've read). But read below first to kill 2 birds with 1 stone.

Problem #2, your pH is REALLY low. Is this during the day, in the morning, or at night when you took the reading? Since the light cycle of photosynthesis uses CO2, at night is when your pH will drop as CO2 concentrations get higher. If this is in the morning right as the lights are going on, then your not too bad, but if this is in the afternoon or at night your pH is probably even lower during the middle of the night! PWC's will help this a bit but the underlying problem is......

Problem #3, your KH is WAY TOO LOW for a CO2 injected tank. It would be fine if you weren't injecting CO2 (probably be around 6.6-7.0), but you need to be at least at 3degrees KH if your injecting CO2, especially since its a DIY as these have inherent fluctuations.

Seems to me that your tap water is very soft (this is not really a bad thing since its MUCH easier to increase hardness than decrease it). You need to gradually increase the hardness so that it can buffer the pH swings from the CO2 better. 1/2 teaspoon of baking soda will add 1 degree of KH for a 20gallon tank (roughly). I would do a 50% PWC and when refilling slowly add in 1/2 teaspoon baking soda (dissolve it in the water before adding to the tank, don't just dump it in!). This will guarantee that you are at least 1 degree of KH. If you feel this is too large of a jump (I personally don't think it is) you can start with 1/4 teaspoon to only raise it 1/2 a degree.

Wait 24 hours and then add another 1/2 teaspoon with a 50% PWC. Wait another 24 hours and add another 1/2 teaspoon with a 50% PWC.

This should have brought you down to ~10-20ppm nitrAte, and your KH should have been slowly increased from less than 1 to ~2 degrees KH. I'd then wait another 24 hours and add in 1/4 teaspoon using tank water (this will get you to 2.5degrees KH), wait another 24 hours and add in the final 1/4 teaspoon. This should have you at ~3degrees of KH which is adequate for injecting CO2.

Over the next week or so if this was my tank, I'd try to get the KH up to ~5degrees so that you have a better buffer. You may need to look into adding some calcium to the tank as well since normally very low KH water is also very low GH (general hardness).

HTH,

justin
 
Awesome, I will follow this procedure. The pH Stable stuff I have is supposed to raise kH, so I'll use that rather than baking soda.
The pH reading was at night, a couple hours after the lights went off, and I only have them on for 8 hours now.
I don't think lack of calcium is a problem--my tank gets those chalky deposits on the plastic and on the bottom of the light fixture.
 
What are the ingredients in the pH Stable product?

If its anything other than sodium bicarbonate, DO NOT use it. Sodium bicarbonate (aka baking soda) is the only thing that you need to raise KH. Since you know what your KH is, anytime you do a water change you can make sure that the water you are adding back into the tank has the same level of KH as the water you just took out. You might not be able to do that with the pH Stable, and frankly baking soda is MUCH cheaper.
 
thanks, i'll be getting on this right away.
I doubt my gH is particularly low though. I have those chalky, I'm assuming calcium, buildups on part of the plastic rim of the tank and the filter.
My plants are also not looking particularly healthy, but I'm not sure why. I give them ferts for macro and micro, and they're definitely getting enough light and CO2. I still have them in their little baskets, and my gravel is probably too big even with substrate mixed in to really grab hold, at least at their current size. Some of the leaves got brownish and burned looking in spots, then decomposed and fell off eventually.
 
I doubt your tap water's KH is that low.. judging from your NO3 levels nitirifing acids have most likely disolved your KH.. I wouldnt be using any additives untill you determane how much KH is in your tapwater. changing the water and adding buffering chemicals could cause extream PH fluctuations, this will be very dangerious to your fish..
I would procede with caution, thats all.
small frequent water changes, 5-10% 5-6 times a day would be best.
and testing the KH of your tapwater. and report that # in ppm back so I can quit sweating over here.. :p
 
kH of tap water is 5 dH

I also noticed some of the leaves on my plants have lost their pigment compeltely in spots. I trimmed away the dead or dying leaves and left only the healthy ones.
 
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