I just measured the levels and would like some opinions on the levels.

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Camogirl28

Aquarium Advice Activist
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Apr 23, 2013
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Got the master test kit for Christmas
!! I just tested the levels, it was super easy and fun. Here is my levels:

Ph- around 6.6

Ammonia- 0.25 ppm

Nitrate ( NO2)- 0 ppm

Nitrate (NO3)- 40 ppm

The test itself was easy but not exactly sure on the level reading I matched the liquid color with the chart the best I could. So please any thoughts on the levels ( if their high, low, or just right) and any tips or tricks using the kit would be awesome.
 
How long has the tank been up? Any live stock? This is not good, im betting you didnt cycle. Ammonia should be 0, nitrites good but doesnt make up for the nitrate and ammonia. Nitrate should be 5-10, 10 is MAXIMUM. If there is any stock than your best bet is give it back to the fish store and cycle the tank...
 
The ammonia is of concern but nitrates are acceptable. My tap water reads 10ppm regularly.

The other questions asked will help give us a better idea. How many fish, how long, etc.
 
The ammonia is of concern but nitrates are acceptable. My tap water reads 10ppm regularly.

The other questions asked will help give us a better idea. How many fish, how long, etc.

No, nitrates are way to high. To high for almost any fish. Anything above 20 is bad. But 10 is maximum IMO.
 
No, nitrates are way to high. To high for almost any fish. Anything above 20 is bad. But 10 is maximum IMO.

?

For salt water maybe but in a fresh water tank up to 40ppm is perfectly acceptable as long as you don't have discus or GBR
 
I would dose nitrates higher than 10ppm in my planted tank all the time. Even more than 20 when dosing EI Method.

The ammonia is of concern but realistically we need more answers from the OP.
 
Depending on fish types, etc I'd keep an eye on ph just in case it is dropping.

Also you could check your tap water or whatever you use for water changes.
 
Not really. High nitrates can be toxic to the fish aswell. 40 is high. Should be 10.

Should be 10, it should also be 0. Both of those numbers are unrealistic. It is generally accepted that a 40ppm is a safe level and anything above that means it's time to do a water change. Some species require lower levels but by and large the overwhelming majority of fish do just fine in this range.
 
Should be 10, it should also be 0. Both of those numbers are unrealistic. It is generally accepted that a 40ppm is a safe level and anything above that means it's time to do a water change. Some species require lower levels but by and large the overwhelming majority of fish do just fine in this range.
+1, for instance my yellow rainbows do not tolerate nitrates over 20 ppm while my other fish will. Simple solution... Keep nitrate levels tailored to your fish's preference.
 
+1, for instance my yellow rainbows do not tolerate nitrates over 20 ppm while my other fish will. Simple solution... Keep nitrate levels tailored to your fish's preference.

It all depends on the hardieness of the fish. But almost everything will enjoy 10ppm.
 
I agree with fishman, even in my planted tanks I try to keep my nitrates bellow 10ppm. How often do u do ur wcs op? U might want to change out a little more or do 2 smaller ones in a week changing out a little more than u normally would combined over the 2. Each should be a lil bigger than half ur normal wc if u do the 2 a week method. Of course u could also just be overstocked
 
This is interesting for me. In all the research I've done 20-40ppm nitrate seems fine and below 10 may cause certain algae issues. I would be interested in any articles or personal experience on this. Also anything which says which fish are sensitive - so far I have discus, gbr and rainbow fish?
 
This is interesting for me. In all the research I've done 20-40ppm nitrate seems fine and below 10 may cause certain algae issues. I would be interested in any articles or personal experience on this. Also anything which says which fish are sensitive - so far I have discus, gbr and rainbow fish?

What the heck! How are low nitrates gonna cause algea problems? Obliviously you havent done enough research because algea thrives on nitrates in general. Nitrates will look low when there is an algea outbreak because the algea uses them for food, algea problems will come from phosphates aswell. So not only nitrates will be the cause. But really the OP needs to learn about cycling before all of this. Heres a link to cycling OP- http://www.fishchannel.com/freshwater-aquariums/aquarium-care/cycling.aspx
 
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Algae doe NOT thrive on just high nitrates. Many scientific reports are out there that explains the relationship between light, carbon and fert balances or should I say out of balances that create the conditions for various types of algae. To the OP the internet is your best friend for the FACTS. OS.
 
Algae doe NOT thrive on just high nitrates. Many scientific reports are out there that explains the relationship between light, carbon and fert balances or should I say out of balances that create the conditions for various types of algae. To the OP the internet is your best friend for the FACTS. OS.
OS dropping knowledge, listen up kiddies;)
 
HI Brookster,
I just want our fish brothers and sisters to not have to go through the pain and expense I went through learning by trail and error. My God! I wish we had the internet back then! Best thing that ever happened for this hobby. Hey, I'm gonna PM you with something now. OS.
 
Algae doe NOT thrive on just high nitrates. Many scientific reports are out there that explains the relationship between light, carbon and fert balances or should I say out of balances that create the conditions for various types of algae. To the OP the internet is your best friend for the FACTS. OS.

I didnt say only high nitrates cause algea, i said that nitrates in general do. Maybe you should re-read my post?
 
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What the heck! How are low nitrates gonna cause algea problems? Obliviously you havent done enough research because algea thrives on nitrates in general. Nitrates will look low when there is an algea outbreak because the algea uses them for food, algea problems will come from phosphates aswell. So not only nitrates will be the cause. But really the OP needs to learn about cycling before all of this. Heres a link to cycling OP- http://www.fishchannel.com/freshwater-aquariums/aquarium-care/cycling.aspx

The reference was that <10ppm nitrate could encourage blue-green algae / Cyanobacteria. This seemed to make sense at the time as nitrates had dropped.

Happy to be proved wrong? I look forward to any articles you can provide or direct experience on your tanks.
 
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