I'm stumped... :(

[eco23]

Theres really some under sink RO's that are efficient which you can also hook into the ice maker as well as having it's own spigot for drinking water. Whatever you can get ahold of is better than nothing though. Ask about micron filtration, VOC reduction and whether they're WQA and NSF certified. Using RO water for the tank brings up a second issue, where you'll need to introduce nutrients back into the water since the RO strips everything out. There's products the SW guys use who could be of som great help.

 

[wrmiller]

Theres really some under sink RO's that are efficient which you can also hook into the ice maker as well as having it's own spigot for drinking water. Whatever you can get ahold of is better than nothing though. Ask about micron filtration, VOC reduction and whether they're WQA and NSF certified. Using RO water for the tank brings up a second issue, where you'll need to introduce nutrients back into the water since the RO strips everything out. There's products the SW guys use who could be of som great help.

Thanks for the advice.

So, in the hear and now, is there any way for me to reduce the nitrate levels in the tank? Other than going out and buying a whole bunch of bottled water I would say, no. Right? Can I add water from my dehumidifyer to my tank? Would that hurt anything?

 

[eco23]

Thanks for the advice.

So, in the hear and now, is there any way for me to reduce the nitrate levels in the tank? Other than going out and buying a whole bunch of bottled water I would say, no. Right? Can I add water from my dehumidifyer to my tank? Would that hurt anything?

I really wouldn't worry about it. It's nowhere near detrimental levels...not ideal...but not remotely harmful. The best solution really would be buying some T-5 HO lights...and a bunch of plants. They'll swallow that stuff.

 

[wrmiller]

I really wouldn't worry about it. It's nowhere near detrimental levels...not ideal...but not remotely harmful. The best solution really would be buying some T-5 HO lights...and a bunch of plants. They'll swallow that stuff.

How many plants and what kind would make a difference? You knew you were going to get me back to using live plants again at some point, didn't you?

 

[eco23]

How many plants and what kind would make a difference? You knew you were going to get me back to using live plants again at some point, didn't you?

If fort, rookie, severum mama or jeta pop in...they'd be the one to tell you. My understanding is that you want fast growing ones like anacharis, water sprite, etc...which will quickly consume the nitrAtes. The more the better, but everything helps. There are plenty of plants which will grow fine under stock hood lighting...but trust me, plants are addictive and you'll end up buying upgraded lights shortly after, lol.

 

[jetajockey]

I really wouldn't worry about it. It's nowhere near detrimental levels...not ideal...but not remotely harmful. The best solution really would be buying some T-5 HO lights...and a bunch of plants. They'll swallow that stuff.

This is it, the more the better.

 

[wrmiller]

So, I guess the idea then is to just get some plants and when I do my water changes using my tap water with the nitrate present the plants will assist in filtering out those nitrates? What can I expect from getting say maybe 3 or 4 plants? That's probably what I would start out with.

I just have regular gravel substrate in my tank. I'm assuming the proper way to introduce the plants is to just burry their roots with the gravel?

I think I also read somewhere that I might also be able to get some freshwater clams that also consume nitrate?

I am really feeling quite discouraged now with this situation and wondering if it is really worth continuing? What would you do in this situation if you were in my position?

I can see only a couple options here.
- keep using my tap water and keep introducing always between 20 and 40 ppm of Nitrate in to the tank when doing water changes
- get RO/DI system and then use the chemicals made to put the minerals back in the water for the freshwater fishes
- get RO/DI system, find someone to take my freshwater fishes and switch to saltwater setup using my 37 gallon
- call it quits and have a yard sale.

 

[eco23]

My friend, I think you're worrying way to much as far as your aquarium goes. The first priority is getting your family some nice, clean drinking water...but there's nothing in your tap water that even remotely gives me concern as it relates to your aquarium.

20-40ppm is really no big deal for fish, the ammonia in your tap water will be consumed within hours by your bio-filter once fully cycled...and plants will help keep everything in check.

I have normal aquarium gravel and river rocks, I grow Water Sprite, Rotala, Vals, Ambulia, Java Moss and a Marimo Ball like crazy. I do have upgraded lighting, but it cost me only around a buck twenty for the whole setup. My 46 gallon is fairly heavily stocked...and my nitrAtes never climb above 10-15 thanks to the plants.

I really wouldn't worry as far as your fish tank . You're definitely dealing with some challenges at the moment with illness and trying to get it cycled...but once that's out of the way, you'll have a perfect environment for them.

 

[jetajockey]

It takes a pretty hefty amount of plants to really knock out the nitrates. Getting a nice light system would be the key to going that direction, because the light is what is going to directly affect the nitrate uptake of the plants.

I wouldn't worry too much about 20-40ppm nitrates. Some fish are more sensitive to nitrates, it's true, but most are not.

I've had multiple occasions where I would test one of my friends tanks for them and find 100ppm+ nitrates in their water. It's old school thinking to do a monthly WC, or no WC at all and just top off, but lots of people still do it that way and still have moderately healthy aquariums. (lots of room for improvement though)

So if I were you, I would not bother with ro/di unless you plan on going super scientific with ultra sensitive fish, measuring TDS and all that jazz as well. If you want to keep it basic and just enjoy the hobby, then plan to get a nice light, plant the tank out and see what fish will work out. Most do, just stay away from those with a bad reputation of being sensitive (rams, discus, etc)

 

[wrmiller]

It takes a pretty hefty amount of plants to really knock out the nitrates. Getting a nice light system would be the key to going that direction, because the light is what is going to directly affect the nitrate uptake of the plants.

I wouldn't worry too much about 20-40ppm nitrates. Some fish are more sensitive to nitrates, it's true, but most are not.

I've had multiple occasions where I would test one of my friends tanks for them and find 100ppm+ nitrates in their water. It's old school thinking to do a monthly WC, or no WC at all and just top off, but lots of people still do it that way and still have moderately healthy aquariums. (lots of room for improvement though)

So if I were you, I would not bother with ro/di unless you plan on going super scientific with ultra sensitive fish, measuring TDS and all that jazz as well. If you want to keep it basic and just enjoy the hobby, then plan to get a nice light, plant the tank out and see what fish will work out. Most do, just stay away from those with a bad reputation of being sensitive (rams, discus, etc)

Ok. Another stupid question. I'm going to be getting an RO system anyway as the health department told us today that we shouldn't drink our water or cook with it. Does RO alone without the DI also remove too much stuff to use for freshwater fish?

Also, we have water coolers that we also use for drinking water. The 5 gallon bubbled kind. That's basically RO water, right?

My aquarium is just a 37 gallon. I could probably handle putting a couple of those in a month if it would make any difference. Actually, I guess I could also transport water from my folks place also if I had to. I'm usually in there at least once a week so wouldn't be that much of a pain.

You have to understand that I know I have a touch of OCD and these sort of things just really freaking bug me. LOL!!!!

 

[Sparky74]

Another idea...

You could get a rain barrel and mix that with the tap water to lower the nitrate levels or just use rain water. I believe rainwater lacks some minerals and such that are normally found in well water, but you can supplement for that rather cheaply I would believe.

But, like Eco said, family first. Fish will be OK.

 

[eco23]

Ok. Another stupid question. I'm going to be getting an RO system anyway as the health department told us today that we shouldn't drink our water or cook with it. Does RO alone without the DI also remove too much stuff to use for freshwater fish?

Also, we have water coolers that we also use for drinking water. The 5 gallon bubbled kind. That's basically RO water, right?

My aquarium is just a 37 gallon. I could probably handle putting a couple of those in a month if it would make any difference. Actually, I guess I could also transport water from my folks place also if I had to. I'm usually in there at least once a week so wouldn't be that much of a pain.

You have to understand that I know I have a touch of OCD and these sort of things just really freaking bug me. LOL!!!!

First...I believe everyone with super healthy aquariums needs to be OCD to a certain degree, lol.

I can't speak for aquarium use RO/DI units, but what our company does is a 5 stage RO unit...no deionization. A quality RO unit will strip everything from the water. Our residential unit filters down to 1/10,000 of a micron (for comparison, a human hair is about 40 microns...so not much makes it through, lol)... So yes, simply RO will still require introducing minerals back into your water.

Bottled water is all over the board, some is RO, some is actually spring water, most are charcoal filtered municipal water believe it or not. Some research and testing on your part would be needed if you wanted to go that route.

I understand OCD (my fish do as well because of how often the Python is in their tank, haha)...but as jeta said...unless you're keeping the most sensitive species...there's really not much to worry about IMO.

 

[wrmiller]

Ok. So, I ordered a RO/DI unit today and expect it shortly. Probably mid week this coming week. I figured $100, what the heck! Why not? I may want to dabble a bit in salt water anyway, so...

Since I'm getting the RO unit anyway, would it be acceptable for me to do like a 50/50 mix of tap and RO? Then the water would have half of the nitrate to start with since the RO water will dilute that and the water will still contain some of the natural needed minerals and such since using half tap water. Does this sound like it will work or will I still need the conditioner to add to the RO water?

I really enjoy the aquarium and fishes so I really want it to be right for them. It still bugs me that the tap when I put it in the tank has that much nitrates. I know that you guys have said that it should be fine but you also remember me saying, "OCD".

Thanks guys for all of the advice! Greatly appreciated!

 

[jetajockey]

I have no personal experience with using RO water, so take this for what it's worth. I would likely get a GH/KH test kit to keep an eye on your hardness, since you are cutting it down you may end up needing to add buffers to keep the pH stable.

 

[wrmiller]

Will this be much different than what I am doing now? Right now I am doing 50/50 hard and soft water. I do 50 at 0 hardness through our softener and then the other 50 I do bypassing the softener. My PH always stays pretty stable consistently at about 8. Ph is same in my hard water as in my soft water though. I read that RO water will be at like 6 a 6.3 though.

 

[ldaniel]

You could always add some fast growing stem plants to help out with the NitrAte issues. lol. Still not wanting to go down that road yet?

 

[wrmiller]

You could always add some fast growing stem plants to help out with the NitrAte issues. lol. Still not wanting to go down that road yet?

I'm still hoping to not have to get the real plants. The fish are enough for me to take the time and care for. My plan is to try and do the 50/50 RO water with tap water and see how that works out. I will keep my eye on everything to make sure nothing goes out of whack in the beginning and then can adjust as necessary. My other option may be to just take some 5 gallon jugs with me to my folks house and bring water from there. They are on public water system so I should just have to use prime on it and then it will be good.

Assuming I do store water as I gather it from other sources. How long can I allow the water to sit before I have to be concerned that it will go tainted? I'm planning on getting a few of those 5 galling water jugs that are similar to the red gas can you can buy.

I was also considering getting a rain barrel or 55 galling plasic drum for in the basement to store water in so I can heat it and have it same as in the aquarium. I'm finding it hard to temper the water accurately directly from the tap. I was thinking to go ahead and do the 50/50 tap and RO mix in the 55 gallon drum so that it is partially aged before in actually move it to the tank. Am I missing anything here or is this not a good idea to have water prepped and ready to go into the aquarium ahead of time. Would I have to worry about the water stagnating or anything if I'm using it weekly for water changes? Would I just need and aerator in there to provide surface movement?

Thanks again folks!

 

[ldaniel]

I've seen some r o units hooked into a 55 gallon drum, they have a fill valve on them like an automatic top off. as long as the barrel is covered it should be fine I would think.
when I do partial water changes I do not match the temperature directly, I do try and get it close to the same temperature though.

 

[wrmiller]

Hi, Gang!

Today I have a couple of questions:

Ich Treatment - Today is the 8th day of 85+ degrees and salt treatment for the Ich issue I discovered after my power outage Sunday before last. Today is day 4 since I have seen any Ich anywhere in the tank on any fish. All fish seem to be doing fine but the Corys are looking a little slugish. Is it recomended that I continue the treatment for the full 2 weeks? I have read posts where people say to discontinue after you haven't seen Ich for greater than 3 days and then other stating to do full two weeks of treatment regardless.

New Filter Cycle - Also, Sunday before last I picked up a new AquaClear 70 filter for my 37 gallon. The TopFin 40 that came with my aquarium as a kit just wasn't doing the job. I'm still doing daily water changes as my NH3/NH+4 keeps spiking to about 0.50. NO2 seems to be hoovering between 0.00 and 0.25. NO-3 is between 40 and 80 which is expected I guess since I have a tap water Nitrate issue I'm trying to work through and sort out. I still have my old filter media in my new filter. I guess I wasn't expecting such a large cycle again just because of the new filter being introduced if I put the old media in the new one also.

Decoration Swap- I'm not crazy about the decorations in my aquarium. They are more of a Marine theme and I want to go with more of a natural rock look. If I decide to swap out the center decoration I have which is made of resin, and replace it with real stone/rocks, will I again be causing a cycle to kick off in the tank? Should I go ahead and do this ASAP while the heat is up and the salt is in the tank so that I don't stress the fish with the changes and cuase another Ich outbreak? Sorry if that is a dumb question! LOL!!!

Tiger Barbs - Ever since raising the temp in my tank and dosed with salt to treat the Ich problem, all but one of my 6 tiger barbs have become plump and agressive. Is it possible that the salt and/or heat has caused them to spawn or something? I have no idea what I'm talking about here, people, which is why I am asking you. LOL!!!

Nitrates - Also, it looks like the nitrates that come from my tap water are actually somewhere between 40-80 ppm instead of 20-40 ppm.

 

[wrmiller]

Any ideas, guys? I hope I haven't worn out my welcome.