Milwaukee CO2 regulator problems

[Kharrnn]

Hey all, it's been a long time since I've posted anything on the forums. Life has been getting in the way.

Anyway, I have had a Milwaukee CO2 regulator for a couple years now. the problem I'm experiencing is the pressure seems to drop and my bubble count drops to 0. By pressure I don't mean the valves drop to 0, just the bubble count diminishes over time.

I followed the instructions for setup and installation, closed all the valves, opened main valve then the large main knob until I had close to my preferred count, then adjusted the needle valve as needed. After a day or two the bubbles stop and i have to adjust the needle valve again. I've been doing this for a few months now thinking it would eventually even out, to no avail.

What am I doing wrong? Is there another method to get the bubble count stable? I've tried turning the needle valve open most the way then backing it back down to my preferred speed which was more successful, but ultimately had the same result.

By now my warranty is expired on my regulator so replacement is not an option. I've noticed that since this has been happening the algae growth in my tank has been much more difficult to control, and having read other algae posts it seems CO2 levels is the most likely culprit.

Please help

 

[Fresh2o]

What working pressure are you keeping it at?
I don't own a Milwaukee, but with my Aquatec I had recently set the working pressure a bit higher than I wanted (45-50 psi) and then scaled it back. The bubbles were steady for a day and then dropped to almost nothing. Unlike your situation, the working pressure had dropped to zero. I bumped it back to 25-35 psi and it has been steady since then.


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[Kharrnn]

The left gauge (tank pressure) I was told I can ignore so I don't know, other than above 0 and at about the same level as when I last filled the tank.

The right gauge is just past the highest level 10. I guess that's the operating pressure you are talking about. Here's a picture I found online of the regulator.

3 Photo by Matt_021 | Photobucket

 

[Fresh2o]

If I am reading these correctly, the tank pressure looks to be around 800 psi and the working pressure is 35 psi. These are fine.
Perhaps you could bump up the working pressure to 40-45 psi and see if that has any effect. Also, when making any changes to the needle valve, you need to be patient and check on it minutes after to see if is the same. The needle valve on my Aquatek is very touchy; a slight nudge and it goes from 1 to 4 bps. After adjustment it is pretty stable until tank change time.


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[Kharrnn]

My working pressure is above 140 PSI. Can't raise it anymore as it's above the gauge limits.

I have my CO2 and lights set for 2x3hr intervals. 1 run in the morning and the other in the evening. I tend to adjust my needle valve near the beginning of the cycle and check it a few times during that run. Sometimes I've had to adjust it multiple times.

Is the working pressure the left gauge? I was always told, even by Milwaukee, that as long as that is not at 0 you are good. And as far as I recall the main valve is open almost all the way. Can't really get any more than that. I can check it tomorrow morning though since I wont be home until after the evening cycle has ended.

 

[Fresh2o]

I've magnified your pic and posted it below. The gauge on the left should be the tank pressure gauge and the one on the right should be the working pressure gauge.

After a refill my paintball tank usually measures between 900-1000 psi. This one appears to be at 800 psi. With the Aquatek regulator, the psi will stay at this level for months and then quickly drop (1-2 days) to zero as the tank becomes empty.
The large knob, as seen here behind the two gauges, should control the working pressure (is at 35 psi in the pic) and the small knob controls the needle valve and bubble counter.
Based on these readings, you really should not have to touch the needle valve (or the large knob) after making the initial adjustments. The large knob should be closed when swapping tanks and slowly opened after connecting it to a CO2 tank. It is then adjusted to set the working pressure and generally not touched until it is time to swap the CO2 tank. After setting the working pressure, then you open up the needle valve and set it to the desired value (e.g. 2 bps).


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[FishFlow]

I've magnified your pic and posted it below. The gauge on the left should be the tank pressure gauge and the one on the right should be the working pressure gauge.

The large knob, as seen here behind the two gauges, should control the working pressure (is at 35 psi in the pic) and the small knob controls the needle valve and bubble counter.

The large knob BEHIND the gauges is the main valve, main valve needs to be wide open. there is a knob INFRONT of the two gauges, that control the working presure.

 

[Fresh2o]

The large knob BEHIND the gauges is the main valve, main valve needs to be wide open. there is a knob INFRONT of the two gauges, that control the working presure.

Fishflow - my bad. You are correct. When I cropped the pic, I ignored the knob in front. Good catch!


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[FishFlow]

I have found, needle valves are a consumable. Meaning they work ok at first, then go downhill from there! I'm currently having major issues keeping a steady bps from one day to the next (each off/on cycle) I hadn't considered to mess with the working pressure though.

Meaning, the regulator may be working just fine, it's the needle valve that is going south on you.

 

[jrizza]

I followed the instructions for setup and installation, closed all the valves, opened main valve then the large main knob until I had close to my preferred count, then adjusted the needle valve as needed.

Interesting. My needle valve on my azoo regulator is very sensitive. did turning down the main valve allow for finer-tuning?

The large knob BEHIND the gauges is the main valve, main valve needs to be wide open.

This is how my main valve is currently.

 

[Kharrnn]

The main valve, behind the gauges is open all the way. Once I had that open I have left it alone. Adjusting that changes the PSI on the left gauge showing tank pressure. if the main valve closes, the tank PSI decreases.

The front knob is open, but at this point I can't tell you how far. Adjusting that over the last couple of days had mixed results. Turning counter-clockwise reduces working pressure for a bit, then it started increasing again. the opposite happened when turning clockwise.

Currently, my tank PSI is reading about 35. My working pressure is off the scale at above 140 PSI. the needle valve is getting tiny adjustments (read: open more) multiple times per day to keep the bubbles somewhat steady.

I'm almost ready to shut all the valves closed again and restart the whole process on the grounds that I messed up somewhere. the other option is that there is some debris near or in the needle valve causing blockage. I bought the tank new and the regulator is a replacement due to a manufacturer defect on the original purchase.

Thank you all for your input. If you have anything to try or add, please do so. I'm getting quite frustrated with the whole setup and that's not good. Took a lot of convincing and money to get the hardware in the first place.

 

[Fresh2o]

Tank pressure is on the left (800 psi) and working pressure is on the right (35 psi). Not sure where you are seeing +140 psi.
The working pressure should always be less than the tank pressure.
I agree, shut all valves. Then open the main knob followed by the front knob. Then the needle valve.
Good luck!


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[Kharrnn]

I want to remind you that the picture i posted is not my setup, it is a picture I found online to demonstrate and easily describe what I have.

The gauge on the left, tank pressure, is about what the picture shows on my setup.

The gauge on the right, that goes up to 140 PSI, is above the 140 PSI level. That has been described to me as working pressure.

Yes, I'm aware that the tank pressure is less than the working pressure based on what I am saying, but that has always been so even with my first regulator. the gauge on the right has always been higher than the gauge on the left.

Am I wrong somewhere in my information?


Edit:

I went back and read some posts. The valve reading 35 psi in the picture is above the 140 psi mark on my setup. I was confused a little with what I had read.

 

[Fresh2o]

Oh, I see and what you say now makes sense.
Sounds like there's too much pressure in the regulator. I would shut the main tank knob and open up the needle valve as much as possible. Removing the diffuser from the tank might be a good idea. You need to bleed off the excess CO2 from the regulator. Doing the above should allow the working pressure to decrease. Allow it to drop to a normal range (say 20-40 psi). This may take some time. Or you could let it drop to zero and start from scratch. Next, shut the front knob then slowly open the main knob. Then SLOWLY open the front knob and adjust it to the desired pressure. Sounds like the working pressure knob has been turned in the opposite direction.
It just dawned on me that the working pressure gauge might be damaged. Just a guess.


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[FishFlow]

I'd go a step further and empty the reg to zero psi and start again.

 

[Kharrnn]

So after going through the setup process again, it seems like everything is working as it should. Needle valve is open all the way, and I'm getting 1-2 bubbles per second.

Both gauges are reading "normal" values and it all looks good. Thanks for the input and the dialog.

 

[Fresh2o]

Glad you got that worked out!


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