my first sump/fuge build

[bigford84]

ok here is what i have.sump build for my 50 gallon sw tank. 30 gallon tank. the tank is 30 inch long and 19 tall.the small baffles are 10 inch,and they go from bottom to top. the big baffle is 2 inch off the bottom and they are 1 inch apart. the intake on left is 7 1/2 inch to fit my skimmer,fuge is 14 inch if i dont add another bubble trap. and the last section is 4 inch to fit my return pump.. what do you think??? stop there?? or is there somthing im missing?? what do you have for your 5o gal? please tell me whats wrong/rite with this build.. thanks guys looking forward to your comments

 

[Fishguy2727]

I would lower the baffles from being flush with the trim in case something clogs up the area between baffles and backs up water. Allow at least an inch for water to flow over the top of all baffles in a worst case scenario.

I would use dark glass to prevent the light from the fuge from growing algae all over your sump and not just in the fuge.

I added egg crate to stick above both sides of the last baffle so that I could slide in a piece of plastic needlepoint mesh between them in order to keep macroalgae and other stuff from getting in to the pump section.

Can your skimmer work in that water depth? Some skimmers require very specific water depths and you may need to put a platform under the skimmer in order to keep it at the right depth.

 

[Cortes427]

I disagree with lowering the baffle from being flush with the trim, worst case scenario the 1/4 inch space is sufficient for the water to level out before spilling over, plus the clogging of the entire baffle is highly unlikely anyway. I would remove the ten inch baffle closest to the skimmer as it isn't really neccessary but I would add one more baffle to control air bubbles from getting into your return pump. Also, the ten inch height for a 19 inch tall 30 gallon sump seems like a waste of space to me. Since the ten inch baffles determines your water level, that's almost half of the 30 gallons not being used, just something to think about. I personally have a 20 gallon long sump that is 12 inches tall and my water level is at ten inches. Worst case scenario is either the pump loses power and stops, or the siphon breaks, either way the tank can handle the amount of water in the return area and the sump can handle the max water level the overflow will send down to it. Also, I didn't do this to mine because it was an after thought, but I would make your ten inch baffles taller, even to the trim if you'd like, and drill holes where ever it is you want your water level at. This will prevent, as fishguy mentioned, macroalgae and any other inverts you may have from spilling over into your pump area. At the moment I just wedged in filter media but I would much rather have the drilled acrylic.

 

[Hinds04]

Section for return pump is very small, this is where evaporation will show first. Smaller section = more risk of running dry

 

[Cortes427]

Hinds has a very good point, it's not only where it will show first but it's the only place it will show. I lose about half a gallon a day on my 120 gallon w/ 20 gallon sump system which is about a two inch drop in the 7x10x12 return pump area.

 

[Fishguy2727]

Your water level can be above your baffles. My baffles are only 6" tall but the water level is only 2-3" from the trim (way above the lower baffles). The baffles do not determine the water depth, they determine the minimum water level. If you put more water in it will go above them. Without knowing exactly how much water your pump will move up top when it is on you can't be sure exactly how high you can take the baffles. If you take them too high you will end up pulling air in the return pump. Also, the higher that last baffle is the farther water falls into the pump section. This creates bubbles and noise. I prefer having the same water level across the entire sump.

I wouldn't trust 1/4" to handle hundreds of gallons of flow, even in the the rare chance of a worst case scenario.

I would use an auto top off, this can help prevent the pump from pulling air due to evaporation.

Here is mine for an example. As you can see the water level is the same all the way across.

 

[mr_X]

it doesn't matter if the partitions reach the top, as long as you have an opening at the bottom. their is no risk this way. i chose to utilize more of the tank as well, and just made an eggcrate platform to keep the skimmer at the ideal water depth.
i agree that you are better off having the bubble trap before the return, than after the skimmer.
you can keep the return area small and use an ATO (automatic top off).

 

[bigford84]

ok... i have taken the sump apart.. i have changed a few things, the baffles are now 15 inch and the traps are 2 inches off the bottom and go all the way up. the first chamber/intake is now 9 inch just enough to fit the skimmer, the second chamber/fuge is now only 10 1/2 inch(i wish it was bigger) and the last chamber/return is 6 1/2 after the bubble trap,with a 750 gph pump. i know i will have to raise the skimmer,other then that what do you think??? am i missing anything??? could i do somthing better??? first try is on the left.. new one is on rite..

 

[mr_X]

well, you don't need the first partition on the left, and if you plan to use an ATO, you can make the return compartment smaller, so your refugium can be substantially larger.
i would make the return area just large enough to fit the return pump.

i would also make the 2nd and 3rd partitions a little shorter(the 2 immediately before, and after the refugium). that is going to be the depth of your sump when it's full. you will need some room at the top to handle the water that comes down from the display in the event of a power outage.