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I have only used my API test kit and I also used the KH/GH test as well maybe once just to check it.
Hanna Checker for phosphate
the calcium one is with poor reviews in the past not sure about now.
I usually wil have the lfs check the parameters for me.
Salinity is a big one.
I also have the lfs check it against my lame swing arm refractometer. I will say when it is working right is does a great job. You get a grain os salt in the wrong spot, I have had a chase to try and figure out if it would be right or wrong...measuring way low or way high in the same tank water.
So I wouldn't really recommend it lol!
The bobbing glass tube refractometer kind look cheap and likely accurate.
Conductivity Meter of a fancy variation would be what the civilized people of means would go to Delapool. Lots of fancy toys available for SW. Out of my league though.
I will be getting a glass one soon after the last swing arm issues I had.
There are SW color chart cards with the master test kit still I think. You can always use the charts available by doing a search online or with the manufacturer.
The Hana is for calcium, works great for me. (As a Chem major, I get lucky sometimes with equipment)
The Red Sea is for KH/ ph. Not really a fan but it's okay
Salifert is the bomb for phosphate and mg,
And I us API for the 3 basics, ammonia, nitrate, nitrite
Yeah small like a 1/4 in chunk or your house will smell like death. One salad shrimp is good for a medium tank not a nano!!!. There are.other options too.
Options like pure ammonia that is free of detergent, dye, and surfactants. No shrimp smell. There are online calculators to estimate how much ammonia to add.
Regardless of the method, you should be testing periodically and topping off as needed.
You know how you told me about that small filter being a nitrate house? Well it got clogged with something that looked and felt like brown mucus. What could it have been? I cleaned it, and was forced to replace the cartridge won't all the bb.
The hob filter? No, but you were talking about it being your only method of filtration.
I don't have a filter, I have a sump. My plumbing goes into filter socks to get the chunks. Then I have a protein skimmer, algae turf scrubber, and my diy biopellet reactor.
I kept a 5G as I think I referenced long back with lots of LR and LS a bubbler which did make a salty mess had to get the bubbler in a pocket between rocks. It was a Chi tank and I used the square plastic top with a square cut out in the center (where the filter would go for a FW set up).
It worked very well but it was a 5G, did 1/2G to 1G pwc if I fed more than usual, per week. Had a little macroalgae Black Codium great plant and a little Prolifera and Fern leaf constantly used long tweezer to pluck it out of the rocks at the end so there would't be too much. Had Camel Shrimp pair. Those would be too big for a 1G I think.
You need to make sure it is cycled though with actual LR not the rock which is thrown into a tub last week and so called LR.
So you need to be able to trust the lfs or the person it comes from. It is usually obvious there are older ones in the bottom of the back of the tank that look like they have been there longer. Also some of the stones in the SW aquariums in their selling tanks. Even when you pay more per pound for specific stones/pieces sometimes - but you have a tiny tank. So it wouldn't be too much more cost overall.
Live sand not crushed coral, it looks cool but traps stuff you would want to suck out of there.
CaribSea Arag-Alive Pink Fiji is nice and Black Hawaiian, both come bagged as live bacteria, live sand. Less chance of bad stuff but longer wait to start the tank inhabitants to make sure it is processing waste. Of course it costs a little more too.