New here, neww tank, and enough knowledge to be dangerous...

[enrgizerbunny]

Well I just started up my 55 that I purchased in July, spent until Oct 28 building a stand (like a freight train) for it, and finally after a move, filling it and stocking it with some tiger barbs to get through the cycling process. The barbs are in my stocking plan, and I purchased 15 of them, all 1 inch or less. I feel like I have a bit too many, but they were half off and I figured at that size, they wouldn't produce a bioload I couldn't handle.

As far as the filter is concerned, I have an old Rena Filstar XP2 that came with the tank, with a new impeller, new gasket set and all new filter media including: (2) 20 PPI sponges, (2) 30 PPI sponges, 1L ceramic media, Biochem zorb pouch, and finally a micro filter. In that order, from bottom to top. (Any input on the order will certainly be considered with a reason behind it)

I have an API freshwater master test kit, and have been logging my water tests since 12/18, the day after I put the barbs in. I test my water (recorded) twice daily.

My tap water does not contain any chlorine, but it is fairly acidic, which I have been using seachem neutral regulator to curb before water changes. I have an extra 10 gallon aquarium that I fill which has a heater to temp match and I add the buffer to that tank. Any recommendations as to how I can be successful with larger water changes than 10 gal without shocking the fish?

My sister has a 75g tank with oscars, and a 55g with tropical fish. She is about at cleaning time and I plan with get one of her filter medias that I am going to wipe the poop off of and place on top of my ceramic media unless anyone tells me otherwise. I already brought a sample of water including media squeezings with the 3 small plants I transported up here (she lives an hour and half away).

Would this be a good plan? Or would it be better to just put the media directly in the tank and tack it to the side? I also understand that the nitrifiers are sensitive to temperature change. What kind of change are we talking? +/-10 degrees? Or lower? I want to develop a plan to ensure that the majority of the bacteria make the journey to my tank instead of opening my filter and putting a poop filled media with a bunch of dead bacteria in my canister.

Finally, the ultimate stocking plan for this tank is:

2 Kissing Gouramis
15 Tiger barbs
1 Rainbow Shark
1 Bristlenosed pleco

As far as aquascape, I have an artificial plant, 3 small live plants that I hope to be prolific, a large piece of quartz from my yard, and a two piece pirate ship that the barbs seems to enjoy for hiding. There will be plantings on either end of the tank, with plenty of open water mid tank for our space intensive species.

Pictures may follow.

 

[enrgizerbunny]

What would be considered a "dangerous" ammonia level? My levels are running right around .5 ppm right now, it went up somewhere between .5 an 1.0, but a 20% water change solved that, with another 20% temperature matched waiting to change.

I'm new to cycling, but I understand the process.

My tap water is acidic, and bottoms out my PH test at a 6.0 reading, so I have to condition it before adding to the tank.

What would be a good thing for raising the PH of my tap water (chlorine free) besides the neutral regulator? I added a fair amount of it to my change water conditioning tank and only got a PH of 6.4, which works, but I feel like I should have it closer to 7.

 

[thebritishbloke]

Most people want 0 ammonia before they'll even think about putting any fish in there. I'd personally say that once you get steady 0.25ppm readings then you'll be fine to pop your fish in (although 0 is preferred).

Your tap water is lower than 6.0 pH?! That can't taste nice, normally tap water is slightly alkaline if anything. I'd just add some pH Up from API or something similar. I wouldn't 'wipe the poo' on to your ceramic media. I'd just get one of her sponges and wring it out straight in to your tank, even let it soak in there for a short while. You may also be able to convince her to give you a handful of her ceramic media

Don't put ceramic media in your tank directly, it won't help much in comparison to having it running in the filter.

Save your tests, no real point in doing it twice a day, I'd just do it daily if you want to keep tabs on it.

 

[Scottyhorse]

No API PH up! The constantly changing PH will do more harm than good. Add some crushed coral to the filter to help buffer the PH. Also, I would not add any fish until the ammonia is 0 ppm. Even a trace amount can cause harm. I would figure out what is causing the ammonia and go from there honestly.

 

[gilpi]

Well I just started up my 55 that I purchased in July, spent until Oct 28 building a stand (like a freight train) for it, and finally after a move, filling it and stocking it with some tiger barbs to get through the cycling process. The barbs are in my stocking plan, and I purchased 15 of them, all 1 inch or less. I feel like I have a bit too many, but they were half off and I figured at that size, they wouldn't produce a bioload I couldn't handle. As far as the filter is concerned, I have an old Rena Filstar XP2 that came with the tank, with a new impeller, new gasket set and all new filter media including: (2) 20 PPI sponges, (2) 30 PPI sponges, 1L ceramic media, Biochem zorb pouch, and finally a micro filter. In that order, from bottom to top. (Any input on the order will certainly be considered with a reason behind it) I have an API freshwater master test kit, and have been logging my water tests since 12/18, the day after I put the barbs in. I test my water (recorded) twice daily. My tap water does not contain any chlorine, but it is fairly acidic, which I have been using seachem neutral regulator to curb before water changes. I have an extra 10 gallon aquarium that I fill which has a heater to temp match and I add the buffer to that tank. Any recommendations as to how I can be successful with larger water changes than 10 gal without shocking the fish? My sister has a 75g tank with oscars, and a 55g with tropical fish. She is about at cleaning time and I plan with get one of her filter medias that I am going to wipe the poop off of and place on top of my ceramic media unless anyone tells me otherwise. I already brought a sample of water including media squeezings with the 3 small plants I transported up here (she lives an hour and half away). Would this be a good plan? Or would it be better to just put the media directly in the tank and tack it to the side? I also understand that the nitrifiers are sensitive to temperature change. What kind of change are we talking? +/-10 degrees? Or lower? I want to develop a plan to ensure that the majority of the bacteria make the journey to my tank instead of opening my filter and putting a poop filled media with a bunch of dead bacteria in my canister. Finally, the ultimate stocking plan for this tank is: 2 Kissing Gouramis 15 Tiger barbs 1 Rainbow Shark 1 Bristlenosed pleco As far as aquascape, I have an artificial plant, 3 small live plants that I hope to be prolific, a large piece of quartz from my yard, and a two piece pirate ship that the barbs seems to enjoy for hiding. There will be plantings on either end of the tank, with plenty of open water mid tank for our space intensive species. Pictures may follow.

It's a great idea to get media from an established tank, hour and a half is no big deal, just keep it in the same water from her tank. A few degrees change is not a problem, don't let it get too cold. I have had power outages longer than 24 hours and the bacteria have survived or at least enough of it so when the power came back the filter was doing its job. Last thing you want to do is add chemicals to raise ph. Adding some crushed coral is a good idea. Here in my side of the world, I struggle to keep the ph down!
Cycling your filter this way should get it up and running fairly fast, just keep checking for ammonia.

 

[enrgizerbunny]

I would figure out what is causing the ammonia and go from there honestly.

The 15 small tiger barbs are causing the ammonia. I am currently fish-in cycling the tank. My question was what ppm would be toxic? (to the barbs that I have in there now) The last part was implied, based on my topic starter so I can understand if there was a misinterpretation of a general question.

My tap water is soft, so it doesn't have a taste, but it is acidic. In fact, it is so acidic that everyone in my neighborhood has had their plumbing converted to PVC/CPVC because the water corroded the copper pipes installed in the 60's when the houses were built. My main concern about this is doing large water changes with water that is off PH from the tank, causing stress to the fish and lowering the tank's PH overall. Right now I have a ten gallon tank set up with a heater in it so I can draw tap water and heat it to match, also to condition it for PH.

I'll look into getting some crushed coral after Christmas Day, would egg shells work?

My sister's tanks have over the back filters and don't have any ceramic media. She's going to give me a sponge.

 

[enrgizerbunny]

Your tap water is lower than 6.0 pH?! .

The guy at petco suggested that it could be dissolved CO2. I haven't noticed much change after letting it set for a day. I haven't tested the tap very much, just enough to find out why my tank was so acidic when I first filled it.

I just tested my tank water. The results are: 6.4 PH and .25-.5 ppm ammonia. I'm going to do a 20% water change in a few minutes here.

Added fish 12/17.
15% water change 12/21
15% water change 12/23

PH has slowly fallen from 6.9 to 6.4 over this time frame, while my first ammonia reading of .25 ppm occurred 12/20. I'm not expecting nitrites any time soon.

 

[Scottyhorse]

The 15 small tiger barbs are causing the ammonia. I am currently fish-in cycling the tank. My question was what ppm would be toxic? (to the barbs that I have in there now) The last part was implied, based on my topic starter so I can understand if there was a misinterpretation of a general question.



I'll look into getting some crushed coral after Christmas Day, would egg shells work?

Oops, sorry, anything over .25 PPM would cause harm IMO. 0 is better but during a fish in cycle, don't let it get over .25.

Yes, egg shells with the lining removed will work.

 

[Scottyhorse]

Also, low PH will stall a cycle. I'd get some egg shells in there

 

[Brookster123]

Crushed coral will work great in stabilizing your ph

 

[enrgizerbunny]

Save your tests, no real point in doing it twice a day, I'd just do it daily if you want to keep tabs on it.

I'm a bit paranoid, and test kits are relatively cheap. I'll probably go to once daily testing when I stop having the heavy ammonia risk, weekly testing once my tank is cycled and producing nitrates. If I use plants for nitrate removal, I may go to monthly testing.

 

[enrgizerbunny]

Added established filter media to my canister last night! going to pick up some crushed coral this afternoon.

Also, a picture of the tank:

 

[enrgizerbunny]

I did not check my water yesterday, but I tested a couple hours ago and my ammonia was a very light colored .25 ppm, 6.8 PH and 0ppm nitrites. I haven't added crushed coral or egg shells, because of unavailability right now.

I have some brown algae growing on my pirate ship. I'm guessing I've had way too much light lately- time for a timer!


Ammonia is down
PH is up
Diatoms are a growing
Fish seem happy/unaffected. Ferocious eaters.

Picture taken 12/24

Close up taken 12/26

 

[thebritishbloke]

You have no real plants in their tank, so I'd say keep the lights shut off for a few days. It should kill off the algae and it shouldn't affect your fish.

 

[enrgizerbunny]

Difficult to see, but i do have a couple small plants. I figure i should take those out and set them in the sunlight while I'm treating the diatoms. I'm not overtly concerned about either of them.

 

[thebritishbloke]

Probably for the best, it's much easier to go out and buy a couple of new plants than it is to get rid of algae once it's settled itself in.