I've had a 40 gallon tank set up for about a year now. It's never been fully stocked because I can't seem to keep fish alive long enough to fully stock it. I test regularly for pH, Nitrate, Nitrite, Hardness and Chlorine. All levels remain stable in a safe range (with the exception of the initial Nitrite/Nitrate spike during cycling). I only add one or two fish at a time and I do regular weekly 20% water changes. Twice I've had ick outbreaks that killed off most of my fish so I set up a quarantine tank for new or sick fish. I've tried 3 different fish stores thinking it may be the fish I'm buying. None of the fish die instantly. Some last a week or tow. Others last a month or two. I think the longest survivor lasted about 6 months. Usually a day or two before they die, they get really lethargic and just lay at the bottom of the tank, but are still breathing. Then a day or two later they're gone. The only other thing I can think of is it's something with the well water that I am not testing for. Does anyone have any idea what the problem can be or what I can try? My last resort is getting an RO unit, but because of the cost I was hoping for other suggestions first. Thank you.
Possible well water issues
- Thread starter mshell
- Start date
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Samzter
Aquarium Advice Addict
Are you new to fish keeping? What fish did you have?
jlk
Aquarium Advice Addict
Have you ever checked your ammonia levels through any of this? I suspect this combined with using strips to test may be part of the issue. Have you ever had your well water professionally tested?
I am new to fish keeping. Currently I have one lone platy. The fish have changed over the course of the year. I started with mollies and a dwarf gourami. An ick outbreak killed them off so then I went to semi-aggressive and had about 7 tiger barbs, a silver tipped shark and a gourami. I added a spotted african leaf fish which led to another ick outbreak. Eventually they all died off so I went back to mollies and platys.
Our well was professionally tested about 4 years ago when we bought the house. I don't remember the results. I just know it was safe to drink. I have not tested for ammonia and I do use the test strips. Any recommendations for better testing methods?
Thanks for your help!
Our well was professionally tested about 4 years ago when we bought the house. I don't remember the results. I just know it was safe to drink. I have not tested for ammonia and I do use the test strips. Any recommendations for better testing methods?
Thanks for your help!
Chiroptera
Aquarium Advice Freak
Test strips can be really unreliable, the best method is a master test kit like the one API offers, with chemicals you put in your water to test, and match the colors to a sheet, a lot like the ones used to keep a pool in check.
If you haven't been testing for ammonia, it could be at dangerous levels. Ammonia is one of the most important levels to check, because the second it gets above even a decimal level like 0.25, it can start harming your fish. The higher the level, the faster, which may be why your fish may be dying at different speeds.
What you need to do is test your water with a real test kit from a LFS or other supplier, and if the ammonia is, say, above one, you need to do a semi-large water change, unless it's the first cycle. Since you've added fish before, it should be alright, but your ammonia levels may still be out of whack.
If you do get a test kit, follow the directions and post the results of all the levels here in number, so maybe we can get a better idea if this is something that happens normally, or if there may very well be something in your well we need to worry about.
If you haven't been testing for ammonia, it could be at dangerous levels. Ammonia is one of the most important levels to check, because the second it gets above even a decimal level like 0.25, it can start harming your fish. The higher the level, the faster, which may be why your fish may be dying at different speeds.
What you need to do is test your water with a real test kit from a LFS or other supplier, and if the ammonia is, say, above one, you need to do a semi-large water change, unless it's the first cycle. Since you've added fish before, it should be alright, but your ammonia levels may still be out of whack.
If you do get a test kit, follow the directions and post the results of all the levels here in number, so maybe we can get a better idea if this is something that happens normally, or if there may very well be something in your well we need to worry about.
If you drink the water from the well you need to have it checked yearly please. You could get very sick if there is a major issue.
Do you use the well water on a sprinkler system? If so, do you have red stains on your concrete? Does the water smell of sulfur?
Do you use the well water on a sprinkler system? If so, do you have red stains on your concrete? Does the water smell of sulfur?
Nimo
Aquarium Advice FINatic
are you using a water conditioner when you do your weekly water changes? do you have a water softener to take out iron or to soften hard water before it comes in the house?
And I agree with the previous post those test strips while a little more friendly to the wallet they are not as friendly to the fish. You should get a master test kit to monitor your water.
And I agree with the previous post those test strips while a little more friendly to the wallet they are not as friendly to the fish. You should get a master test kit to monitor your water.
Our water does stain orange, but has no noticeable smell. We have a water softener which uses water softener salt. The water I use for the aquarium has gone through the water softener first. I treat the water with Tetra Aquasafe Dechlorinator and Conditioner and let it sit for a few hours with a pump circulating and aerating the water before putting it in the aquarium.
Is there anything specific I need to look for in a test kit. I'm looking at the API Freshwater Master Test Kit. Does anyone have any experience with this kit?
Thanks!
Is there anything specific I need to look for in a test kit. I'm looking at the API Freshwater Master Test Kit. Does anyone have any experience with this kit?
Thanks!
Freakgecko91
Aquarium Advice Addict
Basically everyone on here uses that exact test kit, myself included 
Yeah, that kit is fine. Salifert kits are much more accurate but also cost much more.
I have always been told to avoid using "softened" water. What it is doing is an ion exchange. They take out calcium and magnesium, which your fish need, and replace it with sodium. I would say tap the line before the softener but since the iron content is high enough to stain your concrete then it is not good to use either. You may need to look into a new water source for your aquarium unless someone else has more info for you.
I have always been told to avoid using "softened" water. What it is doing is an ion exchange. They take out calcium and magnesium, which your fish need, and replace it with sodium. I would say tap the line before the softener but since the iron content is high enough to stain your concrete then it is not good to use either. You may need to look into a new water source for your aquarium unless someone else has more info for you.
Freakgecko91
Aquarium Advice Addict
I use softened water and never lose fish....the only species I've had issues with are panda cories and GBRs...this issue sounds much different than something like softened way IMO
Nimo
Aquarium Advice FINatic
I think the API master test kit and accurate readings for ammonia nitrite and nitrate along with making sure that the ph is not spiking or dropping will help all of us better help you.
As far as the water softener on the water source, I have heard that it can cause PH to drop after water change and then spike up after a few days because the water softener can lower the PH then it can climb quickly back up if it has a natural high PH.
If the PH is fluctuating that can and will kill fish depending on how quickly it changes
As far as the water softener on the water source, I have heard that it can cause PH to drop after water change and then spike up after a few days because the water softener can lower the PH then it can climb quickly back up if it has a natural high PH.
If the PH is fluctuating that can and will kill fish depending on how quickly it changes
Freakgecko91
Aquarium Advice Addict
I've never experienced any issues with this, my pH sits at a the same level pretty much constant
Nimo
Aquarium Advice FINatic
As far as the softener is concerned as I said that is what I have heard, I don't know this for sure just trying to help trouble shoot.
jlk
Aquarium Advice Addict
Just a thought, but do you have a bypass for the water softening system so you can use just plain well water? I am not an expert on softening systems & I know various chemicals/components are utilized for them to function. Heres a link with some detailed information.
The Soft Water Aquarium: Risks and Benefits
The Soft Water Aquarium: Risks and Benefits
Nimo
Aquarium Advice FINatic
Interesting link thanks for posting it!
I had heard that softened water may not be the best for aquariums, but our water is so dark before it goes through the softener I'm not sure we'd be able to see the fish in the tank and I'm afraid it would eventually clog and damage the aquarium filter.
My last resort would be to get an RO unit. I know I would have to add nutrients back to the water. Any feedback on going this route? I don't have live plants so what nutrients would I need to add back in?
Thanks!
My last resort would be to get an RO unit. I know I would have to add nutrients back to the water. Any feedback on going this route? I don't have live plants so what nutrients would I need to add back in?
Thanks!
jlk
Aquarium Advice Addict
And you drink this water? Sounds a bit scary! Theres nothing wrong with using an RO water for a fw tank. Its something I would love to have but with the amount of water changes & the additional expense, my husband would never ever agree to one. You just need to add a product such as Seachmes Replenish or Kents RO Rite to the water to restore vital minerals, etc.
Nimo
Aquarium Advice FINatic
ok I went back and read your first post on this thread and what I didn't see is testing for ammonia. So that could be a problem.
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