Q's about odd Bala Shark / Ghost Shrimp behavior & new T

[7Enigma]

Please post your test results (ammonia, nitrIte, nitrAte). Was this from test strips or a liquid kit.

I find it VERY difficult to believe that your water quality with all of those fish is not toxic(especially since you just added MORE fish without returning the balas). Even after the 50% water change you just did.

Please do not buy any more fish and definately not an Oto. These are fragile fish that require very good water quality.

You need to read up on the nitrogen cycle. I would get those plants ASAP, the more the better. Fast growers are preferable. See if when you return the fish you can get some filter media or gravel from the bottom of one of the tanks.

If you could also please post a tank shot.

 

[Corey]

Please do a LOT of research before doing anything else to your aquarium; particularly on the nitrogen cycle, how to "cycle" a tank, and stocking information.

 

[Epicenter]

Before you start panicking, I returned the Balas last night. They were in with the Danios for not more than 8 hours, I'd estimate. I'm not sure what good photos of my test strips will do if there is no real standard for the colors it indicates, I'm going by its own instructions for my readings. I show a significant decrease in alkalinity and pH approaching ~7-7.5 compared to 8-8.5, and after 2 50% water changes 1 day apart, I do not hold this to be unrealistic.

I've done the necessary research on tank cycling and the process seems to be coming along well enough, the water chemistry is approaching more ideal levels. However I do not adhere to the rules I read numerous times about strict cycling involving buying expensive fish just to cycle the water that will never be useful again for any other function and won't be in the tank... that's excessive for a hobbyist of my level-- I am not attempting to operate anything incredibly robust.

I added some pretty sizable leafy plants that I imagine will do wonders for the water quality. Although, I need to get some flourescent lighting for them. There are no flourescent bulbs made for my light hood it seems so I will probably just need to suspend a desk lamp over the tank or add a much more expensive dedicated aquarium flourescent light on top and lose the hood altogether (not my favored idea.)

 

[7Enigma]

Epicenter,

Please note that alkalinity and pH mean virtually nothing during the cycle. You have not to my knowledge posted the ammonia and nitrIte levels. You have said your water chemistry is "approaching ideal levels". You have also admitted to using test strips which are notoriously inaccurate.

What you have read on the cycle was either incorrect or misinterpreted. No cycle instructions I've ever read have said to put in the bioload you did in such a abrupt fashion. Most cycles recommend hearty CHEAP fish, not expensive ones you don't want in the tank later.

Your choice of bala sharks also shows me you did not properly research your fish stocking.

Adding plants was probably your best move to date, however, the light level and possible fertilizers needed will be the deciding factor on how much effect they have on removing ammonia.

Please take this as constructive criticism and not a personal attack, but several of us on this forum take this hobby seriously, and we do not want to see needless harm come to the fish.

 

[Epicenter]

I am familiar with the nitrogen cycle, nitrate/nitrite level importance and how they relate to the cycling process. However I did not mention them, in favor of pH/alkalinity, since the nitrate/nitrite levels read within safe limits.

The only fatality to come of my fishkeeping thus far has been a shrimp who died the day he was put in. The other 4 survived and the cause of death of the first shrimp is as yet unknown, but there is no obvious danger. Perhaps he adjusted poorly to the temperature, I've seen that before. You must understand I have limited space and resources and therefore cannot be buying fish just to cycle the tank, and other cost-intensive measures that have never proven necessary in my past experience. This isn't an action in any obvious contradiction of the fishes' well being, as they've proven they are quite comfortable thus far (Balas excepted).

At any rate. I checked Nitrate/Nitrite with strips 3 times and they appeared within safe limits every time. I will get a liquid test kit if it is more accurate; I know a place I can buy one. In my prior aquarium endeavors I kept Bala Sharks that did not grow a centimeter even in a year, hence my assumption they were not MEANT to grow much larger, and failure to research their adult size. I've thoroughly studied the needs and behaviors of guppies and zebra danios, as well as ghost shrimp to ensure their needs are met.

So, on my to-do list right now is to get a good flourescent light, and a liquid water test kit. Maybe I should consider a CO2 supplement in case the tank is not supplying enough for the plants on its own, but that may be alright to wait on.

 

[7Enigma]

I am familiar with the nitrogen cycle, nitrate/nitrite level importance and how they relate to the cycling process. However I did not mention them, in favor of pH/alkalinity, since the nitrate/nitrite levels read within safe limits.

You must understand I have limited space and resources and therefore cannot be buying fish just to cycle the tank, and other cost-intensive measures that have never proven necessary in my past experience. This isn't an action in any obvious contradiction of the fishes' well being, as they've proven they are quite comfortable thus far (Balas excepted).

At any rate. I checked Nitrate/Nitrite with strips 3 times and they appeared within safe limits every time. I will get a liquid test kit if it is more accurate; I know a place I can buy one. .

What about AMMONIA? That is the most important measurement at this time in your tank. NitrAtes will never be a problem during your cycling, its the ammonia and later the nitrIte that are dangerous.

And if you ever start a new tank, check out fishless cycling. It requires almost no investment of money (just a buck or so for the ammonia), requires no PWC's until completion, and you can fully stock your tank at the end.