Question about fin missing

[M_ulak8820]

Hey everyone! I just upgraded to a 36 gallon tank from my 10 gallon tank. I cycled the water for just over a week and the parameters are good. I transported my 2 panda mollies and my 1 dalmatian molly 2 days before adding new fish. I bought a black skirt tetra, a guppy (pic), and 2 gouramis. They have been fine for the 3 days they have all been living together and I've been monitoring the parameters everyday since I added new fish. This morning I woke up and 1 of my pandas passed and my dalmatian and guppy both have some tail fin missing. Does anyone have advice? Am I doing something wrong?
Also, I am having a hard time keeping the water clear. I have clarifier but it isn't really helping. I also have a activated carbon filter. I feed 2 small helpings a day. They never leave any left over.
I included some pictures. Any information would be helpful

 

[Aiken Drum]

What are your water parameters? Can you give the numbers rather than just saying they are good. Have you been doing water changes since you started the new tank?

You didnt cycle the tank. It takes longer than 1 week to cycle, so you should be doing a fish in cycle now.

The cloudy water is normal in an uncycled tank and should clear up as your tank cycles. It is bacteria taking advantage of a nutrient inbalance in the water and should clear up as these nutrients balance out.

 

[M_ulak8820]

How do I do a fish in cycle now? I'm sorry, I'm new at this and probably shouldn't have listened to the dingbats at petsmart.
I only have the test strips that change color. I can include a picture of that and the bottle. However, the alkaline, nitrates, and ammonia all show in the "ideal" range.
Also, does replacing the evaporated water, roughly 2 gallons, a week count as a water cycle?

I called an actual aquarium shop, the man there mentioned that the goraumi fish may be the nipping instigators.

 

[Aiken Drum]

Sure. Post a photo.

You need to be able to test for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. Typically a test kit can also test for pH. It looks like you are missing nitrite. API freshwater master test kit is a good one to go for. Covers what you need, is reasonably easy to use, and accurate enough for what you want to use it for.

A cycled tank is able to maintain ammonia and nitrite at "0" without water changes. An uncycled tank doesn't have enough beneficial bacteria to "cycle" out all the waste into less harmful nitrate and needs help to maintain safe water through regular water changes.

Test daily. You should do sufficient water changes to keep ammonia + nitrite combined below 0.5ppm. If you see for instance 0.25 ammonia and 0.25 nitrite (0.5 combined), no need for a water change. If you see 0.5 ammonia and 0.25 nitrite (0.75 combined) change 1/3 of the water. 0.5 ammonia and 0.5 nitrite (1ppm combined) change 50% of the water. If things get worse than that you may need multiple 50% water changes.

If you arent able to test for nitrite i would change 1/3 of the water daily until you can. Pristine water will do more than anything to help your fish heal up.

 

[Aiken Drum]

Fin nipping may be a possibility. You need to keep an eye on the gourami. Can you move them into the old 10g as a temporary measure to see if things improve?

 

[Aiken Drum]

No. Replacing evaporated water doesnt count as a water change. Its only the H2O that is removed through evaporation. The waste gets left behind. 2 parts to a water change. Removing old water and any waste, and replacing with new clean water. Remember always use a water conditioner when you add new water.

 

[M_ulak8820]

Water cycle and test strip

Here is pictures of the test strip. I will cycle the water today when I get home from work. I will have to pick up water conditioner, I only have a bacteria starter. However, I have a water softener system that removes all hardness and impurities from my water. Should I still add water conditioner to it to be safe?

 

[Aiken Drum]

Ok. So those test strips dont measure ammonia, and i would say you have some nitrite. Ammonia is the most likely thing wrong with your tank and the first thing that will show up when you arent cycled.

I think you are getting confused between the nitrogen "cycle" and water changes.

The nitrogen cycle is the process where bacteria consumes toxic ammonia and converts it into nitrite. Nitrite is pretty much as toxic as ammonia but a different type of bacteria consumes nitrite and converts it to much less toxic nitrate. Cycling a tank is the process you go through to grow enough bacteria to convert all the toxic ammonia into less toxic nitrate.

Water changes are what you have to do to control the waste your nitrogen cycle cant. During cycling you need to do these regularly to control ammonia and nitrite. Once you are cycled you do them less often to control nitrate and other pollutants your cycle doesnt deal with.

As per previous comment, until you can test for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate change 1/3 of the water daily. Once you can properly test, do whatever water changes are needed to keep ammonia + nitrite combined no higher than 0.5ppm.

Did you previously use a water conditioner to treat your water before you added the fish? Or have you just run out? Is your tap water treated with chlorine or chloramine (perhaps you are fed off an untreated well?). Im not aware that a water softener system removes chlorine/chloramine. If its a good quality RO filter it might though. Thats something you need to check on. If you didnt use water conditioner and the fish didn't die within hours i would say either your water is untreated or your water softener is doing something. Unless you are 100% sure its removing all chlorine use water conditioner for all water going into the tank.

Your test shows the water is quite hard. Are you sure the softener system is working ok?

 

[M_ulak8820]

I tried to do a 1/3 water cycle last night. However, my pump somehow is broken or maybe can't handle the 36 gallon tank. Whatever the reason, I can get any flow so I couldn't clean the rocks and get the waste out. I'm going to the store today after work, I'll be done much earlier today so I'll have more time. I'll get the API test strips like you mentioned and a better pump. I'll pick up water conditioner as well. My water conditioning system removes all chlorine and hard minerals, however, something it happening in my tank to make the water more hard. I did just test my water straight from the faucet using the test strips and it says the water is "very soft".
Ill continue to cycle per your specifications to hopefully get a happy habitat going.
Side note: my beta and Dalmatians tail fins have not degreaded any worse. However, the beta seems to be hinding all day between the filter and heater. He is the only one small enough to fit there. I was thinking of getting a little partition to give him his own space to swim around. What are your thoughts?

 

[gilpi]

It takes longer than a week to cycle a tank, average of 6 weeks. The guppy looks like the fin was nipped, the other could be the same or the result of the tank not being cycled as is the cloudiness of the water.