Red slime

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Codyheitmiller

Aquarium Advice FINatic
Joined
Feb 8, 2011
Messages
681
So I have this red slimy algae growing in my tank and have no idea whats causing it. Phos-0, nitrate/trite-0. Water change 10-15% every week. Lights on for 6-7 hours a day. 2 month old bulbs.
 
The cyano will use the nutrients, thereby reducing them. Is it on the sand bed, the rocks, everywhere?

Adding some additional flow the area and siphoning it out can help. It cannot take hold in area of adequate flow (supposedly).

Cyanobacteria is brought on from excess nutrients, low water flow and the wrong spectrum lighting can add to the problem also.
Just to go through the litany once again:
1. cut back the lights to 4 hours or less /day
2. cut feedings to every 2-3 days
3. cut amount fed at feedings
4. continue to do 20% weekly PWC with RO/DI water
5. vacuum out the cyano during a PWC
6. test water for PO4 and it tests above .03 start using GFO, Phosban or similar
7. test for nitrate and get 0 for a reading
8. replace all bulbs (PC older than 6 months, MH over a year, etc.)
9. add or move a PH or two to achieve more flow in the affected areas

As a last resort: Chemi-clean by Boyd Enterprises, Inc. It will take care of the Cyano in your tank in just a few days. It is reef safe.
 
cmor1701d said:
The cyano will use the nutrients, thereby reducing them. Is it on the sand bed, the rocks, everywhere?

Adding some additional flow the area and siphoning it out can help. It cannot take hold in area of adequate flow (supposedly).

Cyanobacteria is brought on from excess nutrients, low water flow and the wrong spectrum lighting can add to the problem also.
Just to go through the litany once again:
1. cut back the lights to 4 hours or less /day
2. cut feedings to every 2-3 days
3. cut amount fed at feedings
4. continue to do 20% weekly PWC with RO/DI water
5. vacuum out the cyano during a PWC
6. test water for PO4 and it tests above .03 start using GFO, Phosban or similar
7. test for nitrate and get 0 for a reading
8. replace all bulbs (PC older than 6 months, MH over a year, etc.)
9. add or move a PH or two to achieve more flow in the affected areas

As a last resort: Chemi-clean by Boyd Enterprises, Inc. It will take care of the Cyano in your tank in just a few days. It is reef safe.

I have things in my tank that need atleast 6 hours of light a day. And fish that need to be fed 3 times a day. My metal halides are not old. And my water quality is perfect. My ph is also 8.4 I failed to say that also.
 
Phos-0, nitrate/trite-0...

Cyanobacteria requires phosphate (and possibly nitrate), so if it exists then either of those compounds exists in the system as well.

The 0ppm result is most likely a 'false positive' resulting from the probability that the cyano's uptake of those compounds is matching the production of those compounds, leaving no excess PO4 to be detected by the test kit.
 
If things were perfect, you would not have the red slime algae. Since you don't believe your feedings and lighting are able to be adjusted, you could try adjusting the water flow. Try to move or add a Powerhead. But cyano has certain environmental needs and you are meeting them. There is a food source in your tank.
 
I've never heard of a coral that needs 6 hours of daylight, I've heard of several day blackouts with no ill effects in even SPS dominated reefs.

Also those fish that need feeding 3 times a day actually don't, you can feed them all every other day
 
The cyano will use the nutrients, thereby reducing them. Is it on the sand bed, the rocks, everywhere?

Adding some additional flow the area and siphoning it out can help. It cannot take hold in area of adequate flow (supposedly).

Cyanobacteria is brought on from excess nutrients, low water flow and the wrong spectrum lighting can add to the problem also.
Just to go through the litany once again:
1. cut back the lights to 4 hours or less /day
2. cut feedings to every 2-3 days
3. cut amount fed at feedings
4. continue to do 20% weekly PWC with RO/DI water
5. vacuum out the cyano during a PWC
6. test water for PO4 and it tests above .03 start using GFO, Phosban or similar
7. test for nitrate and get 0 for a reading
8. replace all bulbs (PC older than 6 months, MH over a year, etc.)
9. add or move a PH or two to achieve more flow in the affected areas

As a last resort: Chemi-clean by Boyd Enterprises, Inc. It will take care of the Cyano in your tank in just a few days. It is reef safe.


The cyano I had was growing very well right in front of my powerhead!!

What container do you use for pwc,I've just read on another thread rubbermaids leach phosphates!!
 
Purple up. I use to do iodide but quit. I also do phytoplacton when direct feeding my zoos, and polyps.
 
What size tank? What is your calcium level? IME if I dose anything, I get cyano. Purple up, phytoplankton especially. If these are the problem, big water changes will reduce the nutrients.
 
Bige said:
What size tank? What is your calcium level? IME if I dose anything, I get cyano. Purple up, phytoplankton especially. If these are the problem, big water changes will reduce the nutrients.

I got a 75 gallon tank with a 20g sump/refuge
 
I just semi-recovered from a terrible cyano plague. The cause: not using ro water. As soon as I switched to RO water, the cyano diminished. It is still in my tank, but not nearly as much as it was and it continues to diminish. I got some dwarf red legged hermit crabs and they pick on some of the cyano filaments. My clownfish even started to eat the cyano...go figure haha
 
Cyano feeds on excess nutrients. It could be that. I would do as listed by cmor. And also stop the purple up and phyto. Do your water changes and suck out what you can. You will know when you are starving it. It gets loose. If you keep up with water changes you dont need purple up. After you do water change, check calcuim. If levels are low still then add purple up. Cyano and dino can feed on many things.
 
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