Ro/di unit help!

[NightHawk-33]

Hey guys, jus got my ro/di unit and my pre sediment filter is 5 micron. Is this too large as 1 micron seems to be mentioned more?

Thanks mark

 

[Mrc8858]

How many stages and what are they?

 

[NightHawk-33]

How many stages and what are they?

4stage mate. Shall i just replace to a 1 micron so the carbon filter isnt at risk of getting blocked?

 

[Schism]

4stage mate. Shall i just replace to a 1 micron so the carbon filter isnt at risk of getting blocked?

No. The carbon filter and the sediment filter should be the same size. The carbon filter will not get blocked. I run a 5 micron sediment and carbon filter. 1 micron just means your going to be replacing filters more often because of clogging/reduced pressure. Sediment and carbon block should match.

 

[NightHawk-33]

No. The carbon filter and the sediment filter should be the same size. The carbon filter will not get blocked. I run a 5 micron sediment and carbon filter. 1 micron just means your going to be replacing filters more often because of clogging/reduced pressure. Sediment and carbon block should match.

Ohhh, well i think my sediment is 5 micron and my carbon is 1 micron so which would you recommend i change?

 

[reefrunner69]

I think what size pre-filters you use depends a lot on your source water. I have a well with high iron content, so the filter people recommended a 5 micron followed by a 1 micron sediment filter. I will have to change pre-filters at an accelerated rate, but the RO membrane should last longer.

If your on a city water supply I would recommend a 5 micron sediment followed by two 5 micron carbon blocks.

 

[Schism]

Ohhh, well i think my sediment is 5 micron and my carbon is 1 micron so which would you recommend i change?

Depends how long you want your membrane to last and how often you wanna change out sediment filters.

I run a 5 micron sediment filter and carbon block, no problems

 

[NightHawk-33]

Depends how long you want your membrane to last and how often you wanna change out sediment filters.

I run a 5 micron sediment filter and carbon block, no problems

So if the micron rating is lower, the system will be more efficent? Or is the water still good enough for reef use with a higher micron rating?

 

[reefrunner69]

So if the micron rating is lower, the system will be more efficent? Or is the water still good enough for reef use with a higher micron rating?

The RO Membrane will still remove the same particulates the sediment filter would, but a sediment filter runs 5-10 bucks to replace, and the TFC RO membrane costs 65-100 bucks to replace. So the more stuff you can keep out of the membrane the longer it will last. You can also prolong the life of your membrane by installing and using a flush kit which will flush the membrane whenever you run it.

 

[NightHawk-33]

The RO Membrane will still remove the same particulates the sediment filter would, but a sediment filter runs 5-10 bucks to replace, and the TFC RO membrane costs 65-100 bucks to replace. So the more stuff you can keep out of the membrane the longer it will last. You can also prolong the life of your membrane by installing and using a flush kit which will flush the membrane whenever you run it.

My ro/di unit had a membrane flush kit installed but it dosent explain how to use it! Could you explain please?

 

[reefrunner69]

I am actually waiting for mine to be delivered with my booster pump, but from what I can see it should have a valve that you open which will back flush the membrane and all that water is sent to the rejection line. I would flush the membrane about 5-10 minutes per week, unless someone with more experience with them has a better suggestion.

 

[Schism]

So if the micron rating is lower, the system will be more efficent? Or is the water still good enough for reef use with a higher micron rating?

Much of it depends on your water and number of dissolved organics.

My city water comes out at about 230 TDS. If you have a lower TDS then a 1 micron may serve you better. Just remember a 1 micron will clog 5 times faster than 5 micro.

Yes the water will still be good either way.

 

[reefrunner69]

My city water comes out at about 230 TDS.

Seriously? That seems really bad for city water, my high iron well water (untreated) comes out orange and is only 225 TDS. If the iron filter is working well (read I have kept the potassium permanganate full) it's about 190.

 

[Schism]

Seriously? That seems really bad for city water, my high iron well water (untreated) comes out orange and is only 225 TDS. If the iron filter is working well (read I have kept the potassium permanganate full) it's about 190.

Yep. Many people have it worse, ive seen city water at 400 TDS+ just depends where you live and how they clean the water.

 

[reefrunner69]

Yep. Many people have it worse, ive seen city water at 400 TDS+ just depends where you live and how they clean the water.

I guess I'll stop complaining about my orange water, lol.

 

[NightHawk-33]

I guess I'll stop complaining about my orange water, lol.

What connections do you guys use for your RO DI units? Mine came with a saddle clamp valve but the copper pipe under my sink is thin. Do you guys trust the self piercing saddle valves?

 

[reefrunner69]

My RO came with an inline adapter with male and female threads. I think the piercing valves are too permanent. I do have a saddle clamp for rejection water, but I can fix that easily if need be.

What are you going to use it for, just your tanks or tanks and drinking water?

 

[NightHawk-33]

My RO came with an inline adapter with male and female threads. I think the piercing valves are too permanent. I do have a saddle clamp for rejection water, but I can fix that easily if need be.

What are you going to use it for, just your tanks or tanks and drinking water?

Just my tanks reef runner. What would you recommend?

 

[reefrunner69]

I would look through different sites that sell RO/ DI filters and find what will work best for you. With my first RO I had a sink faucet adapter, flip the switch and it diverts the water to the RO filter, flip it back and it's tap water. The biggest problem I have with the needle piercing valves, besides the permanent nature, is the needle end can easily become clogged. Don't get me wrong, these have been used for years, but there are issues with them.

So look around at the different sites (not just aquarium sites) and see what's best for your situation. If you have a solid metal line and you want an under the sink installation, you may not have a choice but to go with a self piercing valve or you may need to cut the line shorter to make room for an inline valve. IMO the easiest is the faucet adapter, but it is also the most inconvenient cause while your making water....you can't use your tap water.