RODI system, was it worth it?

[Animal-Chin]

OMG sooooo worth every penny. That and an auto top off were 2 of the best extras i've purchased....

 

[J.Mcpeak]

I've had issues with jumpers in the past. That's how I lost my first ornate Bichir. P. Ornatipinnis.
Can you help with my question, I know it's off topic but a few of you keep lots of varied tanks, even you who don't reply.hello out there!
I'm not sure how a cover will maintain pH, is that evaporation related, how does that differ over freshwater systems? I won't have auto top up I don't think I can fit it in? The overhead ref will be boxed in and the sump will be alongside not below, this is so I don't need such large sizes pumps to the ref and return and because I have a tank just about right, ie big and empty. I've done plenty of DIY I'm building it sort of now really.

 

[carey]

The best way I can explain how the ph stabilizes with an open top is that the water can breathe. lol There is ample surface area for the bad gases to be expelled and good fresh air to enter.

 

[J.Mcpeak]

So are both clear on what the gaseous exchange is, I have started a new thread specifically aimed at my question. For fresh water you do a sum for one tank that gives you a figure to stock up to in fish length. This is how I stock my fresh water systems. It's tried and tested by me, so I will use that on my reef. With a multi tank marine system do you factor in all areas where this can occur or just the display area like on a regular single tank set up. With a reef there are more areas like the sump the ref. Area and the extra parts on the side of the ref, it's overhead separate from all other elements. All that space does it count? How do you add corals up for bio loading in a full reef set up ie fish coral sand algae live rock, an area called the sump? I can't break out into two reefs no way. I made the mistake of overstocking with freshwater. Look what I ended up with!

Aimed at Carey, I assume you cover with a mesh type thing?

 

[Rmckoy]

The best way I can explain how the ph stabilizes with an open top is that the water can breathe. lol There is ample surface area for the bad gases to be expelled and good fresh air to enter.

Maybe a new thread would be a good idea ,
But I am thinking of trashing my glass tops and making something to keep the jumped in ,
I was thinking light penetrating through glass clean and when it has salt residue May have different lighting intensity .
I have 2 ideas,
Either building wooden frames with plastic window screen or egg crate plastic .
It's still 1/2" holes

 

[J.Mcpeak]

OMG sooooo worth every penny. That and an auto top off were 2 of the best extras i've purchased....

****, I may have to work one in!

 

[J.Mcpeak]

Maybe a new thread would be a good idea ,
But I am thinking of trashing my glass tops and making something to keep the jumped in ,
I was thinking light penetrating through glass clean and when it has salt residue May have different lighting intensity .
I have 2 ideas,
Either building wooden frames with plastic window screen or egg crate plastic .
It's still 1/2" holes

Anything except photographic or optics grade resin or glass will have some effect on light transmission, even that takes its toll.

 

[Rmckoy]

Anything except photographic or optics grade resin or glass will have some effect on light transmission, even that takes its toll.

Basically saying nothing will be as good as open top ?
Is evaporation higher without a glass top ?

 

[J.Mcpeak]

All of my tanks are open top. Except one, the 120 litre fresh.
The one with the lid loses considerably less, so yes I think.
What bothers me about covers and I don't own a reef yet is salt creep. My puffer is in 1.007 +/- .002 the amount of salt over that is ridiculous. Marines are 1.024 +/- .004. That's lots more salt per litre, about 30 grams.
EDIT- I realise only freshwater evaporates.

 

[dragonfisher33]

Basically saying nothing will be as good as open top ?
Is evaporation higher without a glass top ?

yes, evaporation is higher without glass top. all molecules have kinetic energy. the ones with higher than average kinetic energy will "jump", or evaporate. a glass top stops, at least a portion of the water molecules, from leaving the tank. However, this is expected regardless whether this is a SW or FW system. if you do decide to have an open top, it's wise to invest in a mesh screen top that prevents the fish from jumping. i have learned the lesson the hard way when my fish jumped to its death. a mesh screen top, depending on the size/dimension of the tank, will cost you anywhere from $20-$60 from BRS, but it's well worth the investment as most SW fish cost north of that range.

 

[Fishman007]

Guys sorry but what is an auto top off? How much are they? Any links would help!!!

 

[Fishman007]

So you know what you are doing with salt, that will do for me! I've been dreaming about mine for ages, I've planned a thousand different ideas. That change as new stuff comes out, led for example. It's the things you can't read about that concern me. For example, the gaseous exchange method is how I've always stocked my tanks, how does that work with a marine tank? Is it display area only or all areas able to permit gaseous exchange, sump, ref etc. this makes a big difference in my sums, I can't find anything anywhere about this?

Heres a lnk to my new tank build if you wanna check it out or follow-http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forums/f71/60-gallon-cube-build-281964.html

 

[J.Mcpeak]

yes, evaporation is higher without glass top. all molecules have kinetic energy. the ones with higher than average kinetic energy will "jump", or evaporate. a glass top stops, at least a portion of the water molecules, from leaving the tank. However, this is expected regardless whether this is a SW or FW system. if you do decide to have an open top, it's wise to invest in a mesh screen top that prevents the fish from jumping. i have learned the lesson the hard way when my fish jumped to its death. a mesh screen top, depending on the size/dimension of the tank, will cost you anywhere from $20-$60 from BRS, but it's well worth the investment as most SW fish cost north of that range.

I pay in £

 

[J.Mcpeak]

An auto top up is a separate tank full of fresh water, a float valve goes in the sump. When water level drop through evaporation it switches on a motor that pumps the fresh into the marine replenishing tank to original level. Controls salinity and pH.
Edit- there may be more, ask one of them!
Over here tunze is the best name I think but I've no experience whatsoever with a marine tank.

 

[Fishman007]

An auto top up is a separate tank full of fresh water, a float valve goes in the sump. When water level drop through evaporation it switches on a motor that pumps the fresh into the marine replenishing tank to original level. Controls salinity and pH.
Edit- there may be more, ask one of them!

Ok thanks

 

[Phranque]

An auto top up is a separate tank full of fresh water, a float valve goes in the sump. When water level drop through evaporation it switches on a motor that pumps the fresh into the marine replenishing tank to original level. Controls salinity and pH.
Edit- there may be more, ask one of them!
Over here tunze is the best name I think but I've no experience whatsoever with a marine tank.

That is one way to do it, but I'm personally not a fan of electric float switches in a saltwater environment..... way too many stories of corrosion causing the switches to stick open & pump the entire container of top-off water into the system. If you do go this route, make sure to run the system through a digital timer as a back-up in case the switch does stick open..... that way the timer will only allow it run for so long at a time.
Personally, I'd rather just cut the switch out of the equation altogether and run something like a 50ml/min BRS top-off pump on a timer. You can easily determine what your daily evap rate is, and set a digital timer to turn on the pump a few times a day for the given amount of water you need.

 

[J.Mcpeak]

That is one way to do it, but I'm personally not a fan of electric float switches in a saltwater environment..... way too many stories of corrosion causing the switches to stick open & pump the entire container of top-off water into the system. If you do go this route, make sure to run the system through a digital timer as a back-up in case the switch does stick open..... that way the timer will only allow it run for so long at a time.
Personally, I'd rather just cut the switch out of the equation altogether and run something like a 50ml/min BRS top-off pump on a timer. You can easily determine what your daily evap rate is, and set a digital timer to turn on the pump a few times a day for the given amount of water you need.

I told you there would be more!
I thought just fill with less water, then I thought why bother, I'm in there once or twice a day, with maybe a day off, but still go to check up, just in case.

 

[huma-huma]

my refugium sump can handle an additional 20g or so before it runs the risk of overflowing. that being said, a ATO float switch getting stuck open and emptying 5g of freshwater into my 150g system isn't going to do much.

also to the OP, $245 may seem like a lot to spend on something as "minor" as a RODI unit, but keep in mind how much money in fish youll have in that tank.

 

[Fishman007]

my refugium sump can handle an additional 20g or so before it runs the risk of overflowing. that being said, a ATO float switch getting stuck open and emptying 5g of freshwater into my 150g system isn't going to do much.

also to the OP, $245 may seem like a lot to spend on something as "minor" as a RODI unit, but keep in mind how much money in fish youll have in that tank.

Yeah true lol, and you wouldnt wanna have somthing go wrong once its fully setup and costing 4-5 thousand

 

[J.Mcpeak]

That is one way to do it, but I'm personally not a fan of electric float switches in a saltwater environment..... way too many stories of corrosion causing the switches to stick open & pump the entire container of top-off water into the system. If you do go this route, make sure to run the system through a digital timer as a back-up in case the switch does stick open..... that way the timer will only allow it run for so long at a time.
Personally, I'd rather just cut the switch out of the equation altogether and run something like a 50ml/min BRS top-off pump on a timer. You can easily determine what your daily evap rate is, and set a digital timer to turn on the pump a few times a day for the given amount of water you need.

Are they the mini peristaltic type pumps normally used for dosing?