Setting up a 75 gallon - need sump plumbing help :)

The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an interest in aquariums or fish keeping!
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.

catmel

Aquarium Advice FINatic
Joined
Apr 20, 2008
Messages
660
Location
Findlay, Ohio
Hi :)
I'm Moving my 55 to a 75 gallon - going the sump route this time since I didnt last time. My tank is non drilled - I have a eshopps 800 gph overflow and just purchased a mag 950 pump, the sump is a 2 compartment custom 20 gallon tank.. I dont know a whole lot about plumbing, but from my understanding I just need to get the tubing to connect the overflow to the sump and the pump to the tank, correct?​

It seems it should be more difficult.. maybe I'm over thinking? LOL :)

What do you guys use? flexable tubing? pvc?​

Any help greatly appreciated! Looking forward to starting an even bigger tank.. not looking forward to moving it all​
 
You have to make sure the overflow, and the pump have the same gph to ensure that neither the sump nor display tank overflow.
 
I was told with a 3 foot height difference the Mag pump would be about equal to the 800gph of the overflow.. so I dont think it'd be a problem.

I've heard of siphon stops incase power goes off.. would i just drill a small hole in the tubing at the return as well?
 
Yeah just a small hole on the return line just under the water level. That overflow and pump will do fine. Just remember to put a valve on the return line incase the pump is to strong for the overflow. So how are you setting your sump up? Turning it into a fuge or a place to hide equipment?
 
Agreed. A small hole in your return line just under the water surface will prevent any flooding in a power outage. A valve in the return line is what I needed as my pump is just a little too strong for my overflow. I personally would do a fuge, make the most of the space available. JMO
 
That pump will be a little weak for that overflow. 3ft of head will give more resistance than what you think. Another option instead of the drilled hole below the water line is a check valve in the return line. It will restrict flow a little but you could get a couple reducers and install one larger than your pipe diameter to regain full flow. I have a 1.75'' on my 1 '' return line and it works great.

The thing with the hole below the water line is keeping it clear of any obstructions. Other than that, grab some pvc and have at it.
 
I wouldn't use check valves. I personally have two holes drilled on my return line and not one has ever been obstructed.
 
Other than the pin coming out, how would a check valve fail. Unless the backflow is so strong it slams the flap into the seat so hard it cracks, but I do not see that happening. That's what I have and it works for me. Just keep an eye on what you decide to do either way, as long as the same goal is accomplished. The only reason I said to use one is I have read a few posts about the hole in the return pipe clogging after some time.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top Bottom