Setting up a new planted aquarium

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gavinkai

Aquarium Advice Newbie
Joined
Feb 22, 2020
Messages
4
Location
Nashville, TN
I am upgrading from my 10 gallon to a 36 gal bow front planted tank. I got everything set up Sunday, and have been letting everything mellow out. I have 7 neon tetras, 2 nerite snails, and an albino bristlenose pleco that I will move into the tank when ready. I plan to add another 8-10 neons once stable as well as some cherry shrimp.

When I set up the new tank I added some flake food to generate some ammonia and hopefully help the aquarium cycle. Tested yesterday around .5ppm maybe a bit over, no nitrite, didn't check nitrate. I have not done a water change yet.


The set up:

  • 36 gal bow front
  • Fluval 207 filter, no chem filtration
  • Finnex planted+ 24/7 - running the pre-loaded 24/7 cycle
  • Eheim Jager 100w tank heater set 78
  • Fluval stratum along with some gravel from previous aquarium, and assorted rocks and driftwood from LFS.
  • A few anubias plants, a crypt wendtii, and an amazon sword, and a java fern. I plan to add java moss when I can find some in town.
  • No bubbler but contemplating adding a sponge filter eventually

Here are a few concerns I am hoping someone could help me out with.

  1. Our tap water is around 7.4-7.6 pH. The 10 gal tank's water appears to be on 7.6 according to my API kit when tested last night. The new tank pH read 6.4/6.5 range last night. I know that neons pefer ph in that lower range. I understand that the stratum is probably a big factor in the lower PH. Should I be worried about shocking the neons due to the new pH. Also, I have not done a water change yet, should I expect water changes to bring that pH up to the tap water level eventually, or will the stratum continue to push the pH down?
  2. I have never done a fishless cycle on a new tank before. My first tank was the 10 gal which was cycled with a common goldfish. Should I wait until I see Nitrites/Nitrates to do the first water change? Should I add more flake food if I see ammonia disappear?
  3. LFS guy told me I should get a school of some "hardier" tetras to cycle the tank, is this really necessary? What would be some recommendations of an acceptable species that would do well with the other fish (neons, pleco, eventually shrimp) that might help get the tank cycled?
  4. How soon should I worry about dosing fertilizer?
  5. Do you think its necessary to add an airstone/sponge filter?
  6. Recommendations on a background plant that would get tall and add a nice backdrop to the whole thing?

Looking for any comments at all lay it on me, Cheers!
 

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Some ppl on here give better advice than me on cycling, more knowledge is a good thing, lol. I'll address just a couple of things. Generally air pumps/ stones aren't necessary, but they do help the gas exchange at the surface, thus taking control and o2 in. A sponge filter is a great way to grow some beneficial bacteria long term to help keep your tank clean. They do help mechanically a little, but mainly biologically. I run them on all my tanks. The best/ fastest way to cycle your tank is add some used cycled filter material from your established tank to the new filter. Takes upwards of 6 weeks without. Maybe half that time with. If there is no ammonia in your tank, the bacteria will starve and die, thus making you start all over. So, keep a little in there until you see nitrites rising, then eventually those will be zero and your nitrates will rise and your cycled
 
I don't keep plants. Sorry. And a steady ph is better than the " perfect" ph for the fish your keeping. Having it fluctuate up and down trying to adjust it is hardest on fish. Your hard water will raise it slightly as you do water changes, detritus in the tank will slowly lower your ph, just fyi
 
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