Things needed for a largish tank?

[Nature123]

Hello, before you read any further I apologize for any stupid questions, I'm more used to reptile keeping than fish.

I'm planning to get a 20-50 gallon tank during the summer and was wondering what exactly would I need for it? Other than fish specific, what do I need for a general tank? I know a filter is a must need, but what else would I need? How would I go about setting all this up? Just want to be prepared for this before hand, thanks!

 

[threnjen]

Here's the articles from the newbie area:
http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forum...ou-get-started-with-your-aquarium-154837.html

 

[Mifsud]

Bare essentials would be filter, heater, lighting, gravel vacuum, API Master test kit, and an air pump with air stone IF you're not using a hang-on back "waterfall-type" filter.

Once you have a tank filled with water, at the right temperature, with the capability of supplying oxygen to the fishies, you'll need to establish a nitrogen cycle. This will help prevent the fish from saponifying in the ammonia produced by their own waste.

The N cycle is established by growing colonies of bacteria inside the aquarium that oxidize ammonia and associated wastes.

There's two schools on establishing the nitrogen cycle: the fish-in method, and the fishless method.

For the fish-in method you add your fish (which will introduce some bacteria) to the water and perform substantial daily water changes. Since there is no colony of bacteria to break down the ammonia produced by the fish, you have to remove it manually until the colony naturally forms. This process can take weeks. The upside is you get fish immediately, the downside is they'll die immediately if you do not perform daily maintenance. My preference is the fish-in method.

For the fishless method, you'll need to purchase bottled bacteria or borrow some from a friend's filter media. Then add about a cup of ammonia for every twenty gallons once a week until the cycle is established. This process can take weeks. The upside is it's very easy, the downside is you don't get fish for weeks.

For either method, you'll know your nitrogen cycle has been established after your nitrite level (measured with API master test kit) increases for a few days, and then begins to decrease.

 

[HN1]

Here's the articles from the newbie area:
http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forum...ou-get-started-with-your-aquarium-154837.html

Some great articles there. You may find this one particularly helpful.

Guide to Starting a Freshwater Aquarium - Aquarium Advice

Welcome to AA!

 

[J.Mcpeak]

I think you can use fish food for a cycle start, bloodworm or any frozen treat.
The rotting meat produces ammonia. Same as a rotting fish. Not sure about flakes though?

 

[Plantaholic]

I commend you for giving yourself plenty of time to plan and budget. This will avoid costly mistakes in the long run! Starting out I think most people will advise a tank size of at least 29 gallons. Maintaing proper water quality is much easier when you have more water.
Now, as far as a basic fish tank(freshwater) set-up, here are the basics that you'll need:

-Tank- before you decide what size tank, you should consider what fish you like. Then you can research their care needs, and what other fish would be compatible.( I like the website liveaquaria.com to see and get general info on fish/plants!).

-Tank Stand- Needs to be strong enough to support your tank( general rule is every gallon a tank will hold = 10 lbs. when filled.) Also, you might consider one with a cabinet or drawers, its convenient to have all supplies in one place and nearby!

-Filter- This is where it gets.... Overwhelming! There are a ton of options out there, and even more opinions. I will only say that a HOB(hang off the back) filter can be less intimidating when getting started. Typically, they can be easily maintained without having to take them apart or removing them from the tank. I like the Aquaclear line simply cause it uses sponges rather than specific cartridges that can get very expensive when changing every few weeks! Also, you want something that will filter the water in your tank about 10 times in an hour. GPH(gallons per hour) is how this is measured: 29 gallons x 10 = 290 GPH. Manufacturers will usually incorporate a number in the names of their filters to be used as a guideline for what size tank it is to be used with. However, I have found this a bit misleading cause it is usually stated as UP TO that size tank. Which will leave you very short of cycling your tank water through the filter 10 times per hour. Research, Research, Research!

-Heater- General rule is 3-4 watts per gallon to adequately heat your water(29 gallons of water x 3 watts per gallon=87 watts). Manufacturers will usually list heaters by wattage at intervals of 50 watts(Round up!). Also consider the temperature where you live. I live in Kansas so depending on the season it can be anywhere from -0° to +100°! In colder months the heater has to work harder to maintain the proper temp in the tank, so having a heater with enough power is crucial! In 55 gallon tanks or greater a lot of folks will use two heaters to help alleviate the strain on their heater. You will also need a thermometer to make sure the heaters thermostat is working properly, and your water temp stays where you want it. I would be doing a disservice if I didn't tell you to stay away from the stick-on-the-front ones that are inaccurate.

-Substrate- Lots more choices. Really a preferance thing, but some fish do better with certain types of substrate(Research!). For looks, and bio-filter function(read up on cycling a fish tank, lots of good info out there) you should have at least 2 inches of substate over the bottom of the tank.

-Decor- Also a personal preference, but there are many things to consider for the well being of your fish, such as hiding places, spawn sites, nutritional needs, etc.. You guessed it... More Research!

-Testing Supplies- This is the most important, with out them your fish will die, rendering everything else you just paid for useless! API Freshwater Master Kit is widely used and more accurate than the test strips that are sold. It contains the mandatory tests needed to maintain your tank(I will again refer you to research cycling your tank!) and also tell you what fish will do better than others in your tank based on your water parameters. Most fish retailers will test your water for you for free, but as many times as you need to test, driving to a shop to test seems unpractical.

Research is kind of a big deal in case I haven't made that clear! The worker at your local fish store may know even less than you do, or just not care. The bigger the sale, the better for them! I think about this every time I see my Common Pleco(grows up to 18 inches) that the petsmart guy said would be the same as the Otto(Max size 3-4 inches) I went in for! Good Luck!!