Thinking about starting a reef tank again

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This is the closest I can find to the brs reactor.

I would need to buy a pump for it separately though. Not a big issue though.

Could I run both carbon and gfo in one of these at the same time?
 
I had a dual reactor. I actually still have one. It's awful. The loss of flow into the second reactor was awful. If you can't find anything, I'd just DIY it. My DIY one worked the best out of everything I have run.
As for GFO and carbon together, don't do it. They both require different tumbling speeds to be effective. There are products out there that are 'combos' like this, but aren't specifically a carbon/gfo combo to accomplish the same goals.
 
Sniperhank said:
I had a dual reactor. I actually still have one. It's awful. The loss of flow into the second reactor was awful. If you can't find anything, I'd just DIY it. My DIY one worked the best out of everything I have run.
As for GFO and carbon together, don't do it. They both require different tumbling speeds to be effective. There are products out there that are 'combos' like this, but aren't specifically a carbon/gfo combo to accomplish the same goals.
Click to expand...



Ok thanks. I will buy the h2 ocean one and see how I get on with it. If I decide I need another one I might attempt a diy one that I can hook up to the same pump but put in a gate valve to adjust the flow going to each reactor.
 
Got my handheld tds meter today and my ro water is reading the same as my inline meter shows (3ppm) I have ordered all new filters, resin and membrane for my unit so will see if that helps.

The thing I did find weird is that I put the tds meter in my top up reservoir it was showing a reading of 140ppm. I’m putting this down to maybe having some salt water left in my bucket when filling up the reservoir but I’m planning on cleaning it out and putting in fresh water and will try and keep the water clean.

Not sure if this reactor is starting to work or if I’m maybe just seeing things. It looks like the algae is starting to reside slightly. Hopefully it is shifting it though.

I also ordered some Cheeto algae today so hopefully this will come soon and try speed up the process of removing excess nutrients.
 
I have a question about replacing filters/media in ro units? I have got replacements for all 4 stages as my tds is reading 3-4ppm.

My question is - should I just replace one stage at a time or does every stage need to be replaced at the same time?

I don’t want to replace everything if I don’t have to.
 
What are you using for media? Make sure you flush the carbon block if it's in front of tfc membrane;)
 
Brookster123 said:
What are you using for media? Make sure you flush the carbon block if it's in front of tfc membrane;)
Click to expand...



I’ve bought a 5micron filter, an active carbon block cartridge, RO membrane and Di pod.

I was just wondering if I should replace everything or if one stage of the filter need replaced more frequently?
 
The DI needs replacing before most others ..Often 2-3 times before the others depending on the source water.. My unit shoots 10ppm with out the DI due to high TDS from tap [350+] There is a calculation that estimates most RO units remove as low as 90% of TDS..
The DI does the remainder..
The TFC should last up to 3 years if the other filters at maintained properly..
I run 5then 1 micron before my 2 carbon blocks..I change the 5 2x as much as the 1.
I change the carbon blocks every 6-9 months depending on how much I am using..
Replace the 5 often as it will prolong the life of all filters after it.
 
coralbandit said:
The DI needs replacing before most others ..Often 2-3 times before the others depending on the source water.. My unit shoots 10ppm with out the DI due to high TDS from tap [350+] There is a calculation that estimates most RO units remove as low as 90% of TDS..
The DI does the remainder..
The TFC should last up to 3 years if the other filters at maintained properly..
I run 5then 1 micron before my 2 carbon blocks..I change the 5 2x as much as the 1.
I change the carbon blocks every 6-9 months depending on how much I am using..
Replace the 5 often as it will prolong the life of all filters after it.
Click to expand...



Ok thanks. What is TFC? My unit is around 8 months old so I’ll probably replace the DI resin, carbon block and the 5 filter. I dont think my unit has a 1 filter but my tap water usually sits at around 140-170ppm. Before I added he DI pod I was sitting at around 8ppm if I remember correctly
 
The TFC [Thin Film Composite] is the last filter before the Di in most setups and last on set ups without DI.
It is the filter usually in the non clear housing sitting horizontal on top of unit...
It is the most expensive of filters and should last 2-3 years if you care for the filters before it.
The Di expires the fastest of all media used..
I like the BRS color changing DI media as just one look tells you where it is at..It starts blue and dies yellow....
TDS will 'migrate' through the TFC when the unit is off..This is called osmosis as the water seeks equilibrium inside the unit without pressure...
My Tds is350 from source.When I open my ro the TDS meter [built in BRS] it goes up to 200 sometimes [quickly] and then returns to 10-20 in under 30 seconds..I have installed a T after the TDS sensor and discharge the first bit of water until it gets back to low TDS..
I use a lot of RO water without DI for my fresh water breeding efforts..I use the DI[have BRS dual DI] for my marine tank.It is always zero or I change one of the DI units..
 
coralbandit said:
The TFC [Thin Film Composite] is the last filter before the Di in most setups and last on set ups without DI.
It is the filter usually in the non clear housing sitting horizontal on top of unit...
It is the most expensive of filters and should last 2-3 years if you care for the filters before it.
The Di expires the fastest of all media used..
I like the BRS color changing DI media as just one look tells you where it is at..It starts blue and dies yellow....
TDS will 'migrate' through the TFC when the unit is off..This is called osmosis as the water seeks equilibrium inside the unit without pressure...
My Tds is350 from source.When I open my ro the TDS meter [built in BRS] it goes up to 200 sometimes [quickly] and then returns to 10-20 in under 30 seconds..I have installed a T after the TDS sensor and discharge the first bit of water until it gets back to low TDS..
I use a lot of RO water without DI for my fresh water breeding efforts..I use the DI[have BRS dual DI] for my marine tank.It is always zero or I change one of the DI units..
Click to expand...



Thanks for that.

Yeah I’ve read that BRS equipment is pretty good. Only thing is I live in the U.K and can’t find a BRS supplier. There has been a number of their products I’ve seen and people have recommended but I have to find another option I’m afraid [emoji22]
 
Sniperhank said:
If aquatic life is available I’d get a twist unit. Love mine.
Click to expand...



Had a quick look on google. They look pretty sweet. Maybe a purchase for a later date.

I have replaced my 5 micron filter, carbon block and Di pod. Should I run a few gallons of water b4 using it or will it be safe to use straight away?
 
IMG_4471.jpg
Got my delivery of Cheeto today. Hopefully it will grow nicely.

On the other hand I really think the dinos r coming back again. There are lots of bubbles appearing on my rocks again. I will try and do a couple of larger water changes through the week with the new filters in the ro unit.

I must have the record for having no fish in a tank. I did read somewhere that in this hobby ‘you are looking after the water, not the livestock’ [emoji23]. I’ve actually been nursing water for 8-9 months and only had Fish for about 2-3months [emoji35]
 
54seaweed said:
if you have a turkey baster blow them off don't give it a chance to settle in again .
Click to expand...



Yes I have been doing that. I have been raking the sand as well.

I’m just at a point where I’m not sure what to do. I read that water changes can make things worse.

I’ve had my reactor set up for a couple of weeks now so I will see how it goes. Going to test phosphate this weekend and if it’s high I will add more bio pellets as I only started with 1/4 of the recommended amount.
 
I was doing a WC yesterday and had a thought. Currently I have my skimmer and reactor in chamber 2 of my sump (see pic) I then have my cheeto in chamber 3 before the water goes into the return chamber.

Am I better swapping so that my skimmer is after my fuge? Was just thinking that there will be more nutrients in chamber 2 so maybe I would get better growth in there for my Cheeto?

Any input is appreciatedIMG_4476.jpg
 
I like the skimmer /or pump for skimmer as close to first in sump as possible.
I use bio pellets .If you have had the first dose in reactor for a month add enough to have full dose.. On skimmer placement you should have the return for bio pellet reactor feed near skimmer intake as it needs to be skimmed to be complete.
Keep the light on 24/7 or opposite tanks light cycle where ever it is for the cheato ..
 
coralbandit said:
I like the skimmer /or pump for skimmer as close to first in sump as possible.
I use bio pellets .If you have had the first dose in reactor for a month add enough to have full dose.. On skimmer placement you should have the return for bio pellet reactor feed near skimmer intake as it needs to be skimmed to be complete.
Keep the light on 24/7 or opposite tanks light cycle where ever it is for the cheato ..
Click to expand...



Yes that’s how I’ve got my reactor and skimmer set up. The reactor return is positioned at the skimmer intake and my lights come on when my DT lights go out.

I just wasn’t sure if it would be better to have my Cheato in the bmchqmbwr where there are more nutrients?
 
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