VIDEO CLIP - Clown Fish, Rapid Gilling? Possibly sick?

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If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
How long has the tank been setup?
What is your ammonia reading?
What size is the tank?
How much flow (powerheads, pumps, etc) do you have?

Rapd breathing in my experience is generally caused by ammonia. However, in some cases, filtration could also be a factor. Let us know some more information so we can assist you better. Thanks

Mike
 
im using the dip type testers where you dip it in a sample of water. the ammonia is so low it wont even show up on the reading its zero. the tank has been set up for about 3 months. the filter im using is a renu-filstar canister filter.
 
I never had much luck with the test strips. I always got inaccurate readings. However, if the ammonia is at an acceptable level, perhaps the necessary filtration is missing? Whatever the size tank you have, the GPH should be 10x that, so if it's a 40G tank, it should be 400GPH. Some like more, but that is a good rule of thumb for minimum flow. If you are short on filtration, you can get a couple of Maxijet powerheads that will pick up the slack.
In addition, what is your pH reading?

Mike
 
Before I got my lr, I was having to use a buffer agent because pH was always a problem. Seachem and Kent make pretty decent buffers. I like the powder, as it seems to work better than the liquid. Just don't over shoot it. The best way to check for pH is before the lights come on.
Another contributing factor could be the lid on the tank. Is it a glass lid? I removed mine completely since I never could get the pH to adjust properly. Just something else to consider.
What size is your tank, and what other filtration do you have? You also want to have the filtration ripple the surface of the water to prevent bacteria from floating, and to help increase oxygen as well.

Mike
 
actually the lid on the tank is only covering half of it
the back half is open. i also just added red sea buffers and the pH is rising but it will fall again in a week it always does :( as far as mechanical filter i have the renal-filstar canister. i dug through some junk and found the box and it says its made for 100 gallon + tanks. my tank is 40 gallons. there's a control valve that controls how fast it filters, its not on all the way because i figured it would be too much since its made for 100 gallons. should i turn the nozzle all the way? is there such a thing as TOO much fitering?
 
What is the GPH rating on the canister? Chances are, you don't have enough filtration in your tank, unless the canister can provide at least 400GPH. This could be your problem. A powerhead or 2 may resolve this issue with your pH, as well as your clown breathing heavily.

Mike
 
Thanks guys! Had it not been from trial and error years ago, I would not have caught this. I think we have all been there from one time to another..unfortunately. 8)

Mike
 
I hope that resolves your issue. If anything, it will be a big help. Just get a couple of power heads and point them towards the front, and have them high enough where it will ripple the water as well. Good luck

Mike
 
Sounds great! One thing to keep in mind. The bioballs accumulate nitrates, which may be a factor later. I'm not trying to discourage you, but I figured I would share what many already know about the wet/dry setup.
Wet/dry does have its advantage though. After research on this site, Lando pointed out that you can use reef rubble in place of the bio balls for a more natural filtration (fully submerged). I found some online from Walt Smith 40lbs. for $39.00.
The choice is yours, but I wanted to give you a heads up just in case.
What size wet/dry did you get?

Mike
 
Mike, you got a link for that rubble. I removed my bioballs months ago and now have an empty space in my sump I would like to utilize.
Thanks
 
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