Water paramters for american cichlids

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Polly91

Aquarium Advice Regular
Joined
Aug 18, 2011
Messages
91
Was just wondering what water parameters suit fish such as brasiliensis,kribensis,firemouth,blue acara and severum...
Also things like kh too if possible...
 
Central americans and south americans have different enviromnents. typically CA cichlids come from harder alkaline water, while SA cichlids mainly come from softer acidic water.

with the exception of some SA cichlids like discus and apistogramma, most SA and CA cichlids aren't too fussy. I would NOT try to change the parameters of your existing water supply. Instead, focus on keeping the water clean as these are very messy fish. 50% water changes every week aren't out of the ordinary, and with most of my CA and SA cichlids i changed more like 80% every week.
 
Not unless you're keeping lake T cichlids or other fish really sensitive to such things. Neotropical cichlids in particular are quite tolerant of such large water changes and as long as you try to match the water temp and use dechlorinator you should be fine. Keep in mind that some discus breeders change 50% of the water every DAY. (some change more than that).

Water changes are a good thing. Some fish require that you change less or do it a bit slowly when refilling, but all of my neotropicals literally were 10 times perkier after water changes that had them almost swimming like flounder during the low point.
 
Only thing that worries me is that when I recently added these fish to my aquarium the tank got white spot and it was placed on too much of a change in conditions leading to stress.so I'm concerned with doing such big water changes.
Also how would u stock a 75 gallon tank with American cichlids(firemouth,brasilienis,kribensis,severum,blue acara)...I currently have 2 of each
 
Only thing that worries me is that when I recently added these fish to my aquarium the tank got white spot and it was placed on too much of a change in conditions leading to stress.so I'm concerned with doing such big water changes.
Also how would u stock a 75 gallon tank with American cichlids(firemouth,brasilienis,kribensis,severum,blue acara)...I currently have 2 of each
That's BS. Ich is a protozoan, not a stress symptom. Sure, stress can make fish more susceptible, but chances are the store sold you fish with Ich.

Kribs are a bit of the odd man out as they are smaller - I'd remove them personally, but they may do OK. You currently have 8 fish that get medium big (although the sevs get bigger) - I'd stop buying fish and see how these guys do.

I like tanks with groups of a species, so if it were me I'd pick one species and get 6-8 of the medium sized when adult of that cichlid species and then a bunch of 1 species of schooling fish like Buenos Ares Tetras and maybe a pleco. Lots and lots of driftwood and rock, and dark natural colored gravel (but a shallow depth)
 
Oh really..well I'm just going off what they told me and they are pretty credible here in australia.like the owner has his own line of aquarium DVDs and stuff out but I have only just recently started dealing with them.and it was one of his staff members that was quick to blame stress for the white spot.

Yeh I want breeding too and I'm not sure whether to just aim for one pair to breed or how I should go about it.the thing that appeals to me is that these fish will defend there fry which is cool.
is it true kribs are African too?

Well I used to have Africans so at the moment my substrate is lighter colored and has coral through it.should I try and sift the coral out??
 
Kribs are nigerian but there are two types of "african cichlids" - those that live in the rift lakes, and those that do not (kribs and tilapia fall in the latter category). Even rift lake cichlids fall into subcategories depending upon which lake they live in. Lake malawi cichlids are more tolerant of water changes than lake tanganykia (sp?) ones.

The coral in your substrate will tend to buffer the water and make it harder over time. This is fine for central american cichlids (although if your local water isn't hard and alkaline if you wait more than a week between water changes and don't do large ones, the parameters of your tank water and tap water may be rather different). Kribs and SA cichlids may be a little less excited about the effects of the coral, so I'd take it out considering you have severums and G. B.

It is true that ich is ubiquitous, and that stress can lower a fishes immune system, but most cases of Ich IME have been from infected fish. With thousands of huge water changes under my belt, I can't tell you of a case of Ich brought on by them. If anything, netting the fish probably caused more stress through partial removal of the slime coat than a water change ever would. Keep in mind I didn't make this stuff up - way before internet forums were big I was an ACA member and talked to dudes like Paul Loiselle, Wayne Leibel, John Stankevitch and Tom Ganley (the latter two of which I even bought fish and tanks from).
 
IvanMike said:
Kribs are nigerian but there are two types of "african cichlids" - those that live in the rift lakes, and those that do not (kribs and tilapia fall in the latter category). Even rift lake cichlids fall into subcategories depending upon which lake they live in. Lake malawi cichlids are more tolerant of water changes than lake tanganykia (sp?) ones.

The coral in your substrate will tend to buffer the water and make it harder over time. This is fine for central american cichlids (although if your local water isn't hard and alkaline if you wait more than a week between water changes and don't do large ones, the parameters of your tank water and tap water may be rather different). Kribs and SA cichlids may be a little less excited about the effects of the coral, so I'd take it out considering you have severums and G. B.

It is true that ich is ubiquitous, and that stress can lower a fishes immune system, but most cases of Ich IME have been from infected fish. With thousands of huge water changes under my belt, I can't tell you of a case of Ich brought on by them. If anything, netting the fish probably caused more stress through partial removal of the slime coat than a water change ever would. Keep in mind I didn't make this stuff up - way before internet forums were big I was an ACA member and talked to dudes like Paul Loiselle, Wayne Leibel, John Stankevitch and Tom Ganley (the latter two of which I even bought fish and tanks from).

Oh ok cool.yeh I believe you for sure.you have been a great help with everything and I appreciate it all!wouldn't mind u checking out my other threads either because your information is really good.

When it comes to quarantine tanks what's your opinion on that?I have never been advised to do so but have been reading alot about it
 
I'd kinda suggest merging your threads as many of them are on the same topics - ask a mod for help on that. Also I bet the FAQ on this site as well as some searches will bring you a lot of answers. (I only say that as I moderate a bass guitar website and searches and FAQs are your friends).

Quarantine tanks are great. Throwing an air driven sponge or box filter filled with gravel from your main tank into your main tank makes it an active biological filter. When quarantining new fish you can just throw this filter in the Q tank and be assured of biological filtration (make sure the new filter is active in the main tank for a week or 2 first). Then you can watch the new fish and see what's up. I use them far too infrequently.

Just as important when adding new cichlids to an established cichlid community is rearranging the tank. This forces the old inhabitants to re-establish territories and gives the new fish a fighting chance (although it doesn't always work).
 
Lake Tanganyika cichlids are just fine with large water changes, most of them you buy in the stores are far less sensitive than wild caught and F1 fish available online. The biggest thing I have noticed is to keep the water clean and well aerated. I have been doing 30-50% daily PWC after adding my Juli. Ornatus and Alto. Comps. to make sure that water parameters stay with in acceptable levels and everyone is still happy, healthy and swimming.
 
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