What is REALLY necessary?

[twoodrough]

(I copied this from my question about purigen)

So, correct me if I am wrong:

I am reading that if I keep up on weekly 10% water changes, I don't need any of this other stuff. The additional stuff can make the water better, but is not absolutely necessary. I can run a completely empty HOB filter, using it for water flow only (no other powerheads). If I am willing to put in the manual work to change water each week, and not overstock, I can save money by not having to get these other items. I can run a pretty stripped down tank without being cruel to my inhabitants.

Of course, this is all may be true if nitrates are low enough. I know 0 nitrates is the ideal, but what is really reasonable? At what level would I need to do more than weekly water changes? 5? 10? 20? 40?

Finally, it sounds as if a 30 gallon tank could be set up about the same way, since they are both considered "nano". Whatever works for my 10 will likely be duplicated for a 30 down the road (with the addtion of an RO system).

I am not trying to sound cheap. Lots of things would be beneficial, but not everything is necessary. I want to start simple and add what is needed based on water parameters.

Thanks so much!

 

[mr_X]

if you don't have enough flow in the tank all the uneaten food and fish poop will just hit the bottom and rot. your tank will crash in a short time. that said, i've kept many tanks and never found a need for purigen.

 

[nf37]

(I copied this from my question about purigen)

So, correct me if I am wrong:

I am reading that if I keep up on weekly 10% water changes, I don't need any of this other stuff. The additional stuff can make the water better, but is not absolutely necessary. I can run a completely empty HOB filter, using it for water flow only (no other powerheads). If I am willing to put in the manual work to change water each week, and not overstock, I can save money by not having to get these other items. I can run a pretty stripped down tank without being cruel to my inhabitants.

Of course, this is all may be true if nitrates are low enough. I know 0 nitrates is the ideal, but what is really reasonable? At what level would I need to do more than weekly water changes? 5? 10? 20? 40?

Finally, it sounds as if a 30 gallon tank could be set up about the same way, since they are both considered "nano". Whatever works for my 10 will likely be duplicated for a 30 down the road (with the addtion of an RO system).

I am not trying to sound cheap. Lots of things would be beneficial, but not everything is necessary. I want to start simple and add what is needed based on water parameters.

Thanks so much!

I am assuming you are running a fish only system considering the forum, so really not much will be necessary. A power head will go along way to help keep detrius(fish poo, food, etc) in the water column to easily be removed with water changes. Otherwise you need to siphon the detrius out often or it will release nasties into the tank.

Live rock is also pretty much a necessity to have in any saltwater aquarium, due to its natural filter. With live rock and a powerhead, you can remove the HOB filter completely and just do water changes. That will be more than enough filtration for a fish only tank.

0 nitrates are what you would strive for fish, but really not nearly as needed as a reef tank. Your nitrates can get up to 40-80 ppm and your fish would still be healthy as can be but I would hope you wouldn't be happy with them being that high

Other than that, there really isn't much more to it. Everything else is just a way for LFS's to make easy money. Just do a 10-20% water change weekly-biweekly and keeping feeding down to about once every other day with a variety of foods such as mysis shrimp, flakes, and pellets.