Big Problems

[Tank2379]

Last Night I set up my 55 Gallon added IO as requested on the Bucket 1/2 cup every 1 U.S. Gallon.... I was using a 10 gallon tub or tote.... After putting 40 gallons I added Dry AgaraMax Sand rinsed with freshwater.... Once I put it in the I added another 12 gallons... The sand even after rinsing several times still made the water cloudy is that normal? Well I woke up this morning to a still cloudy water thinking the sand dust or whatever is would settle over night but did not.... I started the filtration this morning and I checked the Salinity of the water it was high 1.030???? I was wondering if I did something wrong or did the sand add salt to my tank???? Oh and I also added I cap of Prime Water Conditioner this morning as well....

Let me know...

Thanks

 

[Tank2379]

Oh and one other thing I have the 2x 200 watt heaters running The water was very warm this morning I believe one of them is over heating so I took one out....

 

[Innovator]

Sounds like a miscalculation and no real damage done since this is a new system. Just make sure you age the water 24hrs prior to water changes from here on out, which gives you plenty of time to recheck salinity measurements and adjust if necessary. Yes, quite normal for the water to remain cloudy regardless of your rinsing procedures and using some type of filter sock/pad will help catch excess particulates. Two 200w heaters is grossly overkill, needing only two 75w-100w max.

 

[Tank2379]

Thanks for the info....

 

[Tank2379]

Would it have been the sand to cause the Mis-Calculation of adding salt? I was wondering since the sand comes from the ocean at least I hope wouldn't there be dried salt mixed with the sand?

 

[Kurt_Nelson]

The sand shouldn't effect it. If you're like me when it comes to measuring large amounts of water or salt mix, you might've just miscounted somewhere in there and put too much salt in. No harm done - easily fixed after you cycle the tank by doing water changes by adding fresh water with no salt mix. Or it can be fixed now... either way.

Also agree that 2x 200W for a 55g is a bit much, unless your room is really really cold! I have a 46g and have 2x 100W in it. Also realize that the temperature markings on the heater aren't necessarily accurate. Put a separate thermometer in the tank (I like the little Coralife digital ones) and adjust your heater thermostats based on the temperature shown on the thermometer. In my experience, if you use the heater's thermostat markings, you'll end up with water that is anywhere between 2 and 4 degrees different from what you think.

Two separate (smaller) heaters is a good idea, but it takes a few days of tweaking to get them to "agree" with each other and come on/turn off at approximately the same time. Having good flow to circulate the heated water is also important.

 

[Tank2379]

Well right now I just have my Fluval 405 running without LR just the DRY Sand that I put in it will be awhile aways before I get any LR i just wanted to get the Salinity to were it's suppose to be first and the water temperature before adding LR I have a Skimmer but I will not use that til I get LR if thats correct or should I run it now?

 

[cmor1701d]

Is there anything in the Fluval, or are you just using it for flow?
You can remove some water and add some RODI water to decrease the SG if you want.
Are you getting uncrued LR to start your cycle? If not, you might as well add a raw shrimp now to get the cycle started.

As the tank cycles the sand will become coated with bacteria. That makes it just heavy enough to settle to the bottom. My tank was cloudy for over a week when I fisrt added sand.

 

[Tank2379]

I have the Media that came with it and the Sponge in there should I do something different? And I found a LFS that has Fully Cured LR that's been curing for 6 months or more at $7.99 a LBS Florida Reef Rock... I saw the LR and there's already plant's growning on the LR itself Look very nice....

 

[roka64]

I pulled out the sponges in my fluvials. I would leave it in for now, to help catch the sand silt.

 

[Tank2379]

When is ok to start my Cycle?

 

[Innovator]

Anytime you feel like it? When you feel your system is ready, either purchase uncured live rock, throw a raw shrimp in, used seeded substrate, or ammonia to jumpstart the process. Since you need to purchase live rock, uncured would be the simplest/best solution I think.

 

[Tank2379]

What will happen if I buy Fully Cured rock?

 

[MCluett]

there will be nothing in the rock to cause the ammonia spike your tank will need to start producing the bacteria which feeds on the ammonia, meaning your tank wont start to cycle unless you jumpstart it another way like innovator suggested. it is just preference for some to use uncured rock

 

[Tank2379]

No Problem could I cycle without LR then? Sorry so many dum Questions i'm still just a

 

[MCluett]

it is recommended that you have the LR since it is a biological filter the water runs through the rock filtering out all the nasties.

 

[Tank2379]

LOL... Nasties.... Alright sounds good.... I will diffenitly get LR and start the cycle process, I'm still going to buy the fully cured rock i take it it should help the cycle along a little faster hopfully if not it will still get cycled reguardless.

 

[MCluett]

fully cured rock wont help the process along any quicker there just wont be as many if any hitchhikers on the rock. the cycle process unfortunatly cannot really be sped up it takes anywheres from 4-6 weeks

 

[CaptainAhab]

Fully cured rock , in any amount, will speed up a full cycle. In the correct amount it could totally eliminate a cycle if the tank is planned to be lightly stocked.

 

[MCluett]

he will still need to jump start the ammonia spike will he not?