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bevoholic
Aquarium Advice Freak
Do either of you use a pH Controller? I'm worried over dosing with the CO2 and it killing my fish down the line.
2.5g Shrimp Tank
- Thread starter bevoholic
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Brian_Nano12g
Aquarium Advice Addict
No... I just use Drop Checkers and make sure that the color doesn't get yellow and stays a nice happy green to lime-green. Works fine and I haven't had any loses.
OP
OP
bevoholic
Aquarium Advice Freak
How much do you dose CO2? Do you just have it running on the same timer your lights are on? How many bubbles per second do you do?
Is the Fluval Drop Checker any good?
Brian_Nano12g
Aquarium Advice Addict
I just run 1 to 2 bps. The bps range depending on some factors from one aquarium to another. Diffusion method, water circulation, surface agitation, tank size, etc. all affect the bps. That's what makes the drop checker such a useful visual tool to know how much co2 is actually getting diffused in the water. You'll just have to set things up, start off with 1 bps and adjust up if the drop checker isn't displaying a nice lime-green by the next day.
I'm sure the Fluval DC should be fine. I actually bought the UP Aqua DC from Amazon because it was cheaper. I use 2 UP Aqua DC's in two of my tanks and 1 glass DC I bought off eBay in my rimless tank. I do recommend using a 4 dkh reference solution instead of water in the DC. By using 4 dkh you'll get an accurate reading this way. You can either learn how to make 4 dkh or just buy it pre-made off eBay. I just buy it because it's cheap and it lasts forever.
I use paintball co2 regulators and in my newly setup tanks, I just let it run 24/7. This keeps a steady ph and I don't have to worry about messing with the needle valve. I've actually started using the solenoid valve on a timer on one of my tanks.. I find it to be rather tricky to time the co2 and lighting on my timers. After several days of fine tuning, I finally got things dialed in on that tank so when the lights turn on, there's sufficient green being displayed on the DC. And since the plants don't use co2 at night, I have the co2 shut off about 2 to 3 hours before the lights do.
I'm sure the Fluval DC should be fine. I actually bought the UP Aqua DC from Amazon because it was cheaper. I use 2 UP Aqua DC's in two of my tanks and 1 glass DC I bought off eBay in my rimless tank. I do recommend using a 4 dkh reference solution instead of water in the DC. By using 4 dkh you'll get an accurate reading this way. You can either learn how to make 4 dkh or just buy it pre-made off eBay. I just buy it because it's cheap and it lasts forever.
I use paintball co2 regulators and in my newly setup tanks, I just let it run 24/7. This keeps a steady ph and I don't have to worry about messing with the needle valve. I've actually started using the solenoid valve on a timer on one of my tanks.. I find it to be rather tricky to time the co2 and lighting on my timers. After several days of fine tuning, I finally got things dialed in on that tank so when the lights turn on, there's sufficient green being displayed on the DC. And since the plants don't use co2 at night, I have the co2 shut off about 2 to 3 hours before the lights do.
OP
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bevoholic
Aquarium Advice Freak
Well, I was thinking about just setting the solenoid and the light on the same timer. So when the lights come on, the CO2 comes on and vice versa. I don't like the idea of letting the CO2 run at night, since the plants won't use it.
Also, should I go ahead and pick up a GH, KH, and Phosphate test?
Also, should I go ahead and pick up a GH, KH, and Phosphate test?
Brian_Nano12g
Aquarium Advice Addict
Well it's just personal preference I suppose. If you run a quick search, you'll see people who run co2 24/7 and those that time it with the lights. I had no issues either way so far. However, I do recommend getting separate timers for the lights and co2. It's ideal to have enough co2 already diffused in the water before the lights come on. You can also have the co2 shut off an hour or two before the lights turn off as there will still be adequate co2 in the water before it gases off.
As for those tests... I don't have them but I know they're good to have.
As for those tests... I don't have them but I know they're good to have.
OP
OP
bevoholic
Aquarium Advice Freak
Yea, I'm looking to get a few more timers anyway. I already have one on my 5.5g that runs my air pump and lights. I need to get one for my 2.5g and my 20g.
OP
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bevoholic
Aquarium Advice Freak
I just ordered the Aqua Up DC. So I shouldn't use the solution that comes in the box?
Brian_Nano12g
Aquarium Advice Addict
No the reagent that comes with the DC is actually Bromothymol Blue. You need that because that's what reacts to the ph in the water and turns colors. What you do need to get or make is a 4 dkh reference solution. You see, the instructions that come with the DC are a bit antiquated and say to mix the Bromothymol Blue (5 drops) with water to the fill line. Instead of water use 4dkh for accuracy in your DC.
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bevoholic
Aquarium Advice Freak
I can order 4mL of 4dkh solution on ebay for 7 bucks. Is that worth it?
Brian_Nano12g
Aquarium Advice Addict
Simply because I don't know how to precisely make it myself, I would just buy it. The one on eBay for 7 bucks seems cool... the seller has a decent feedback and claims to have triple checked it for accuracy.
Anyway, you use so little and I change out my solution in the DC ounce a month, I'm still on my first bottle of 4dkh... and that's with 3 tanks using a DC for a while now. You can explore the alternative of making it yourself and decide from there. There's a sticky at the top of the planted tank section here on AA by Tom Barr www.aquariumadvice.com/forums/f24/how-to-make-a-reference-kh-solution-for-co2-measurement-88293.html
Anyway, you use so little and I change out my solution in the DC ounce a month, I'm still on my first bottle of 4dkh... and that's with 3 tanks using a DC for a while now. You can explore the alternative of making it yourself and decide from there. There's a sticky at the top of the planted tank section here on AA by Tom Barr www.aquariumadvice.com/forums/f24/how-to-make-a-reference-kh-solution-for-co2-measurement-88293.html
OP
OP
bevoholic
Aquarium Advice Freak
It seems like two much equipment I'd need to buy right now to make my own. Maybe in the future. I don't know.
Anyway, would you recommend having the CO2 turn on an hour before the lights turn on and then turn off an hour before the lights turn off?
Brian_Nano12g
Aquarium Advice Addict
Yeah that sounds fine. I've read that's what some other people do.
OP
OP
bevoholic
Aquarium Advice Freak
Awesome. Thanks again for your help.
OP
OP
bevoholic
Aquarium Advice Freak
Always I more question. Lol.
How often should I use excel in my 2.5g? The bottle says that 500 mL will treat 100g for 1-2 months but doesn't tell me how often to use it.
How often should I use excel in my 2.5g? The bottle says that 500 mL will treat 100g for 1-2 months but doesn't tell me how often to use it.
Brian_Nano12g
Aquarium Advice Addict
On the initial use, you add about 1.25 mL to the 2.5g tank. Afterwards, it's a daily or every other day dose of .25mL. I find using transfer plastic pippettes useful in helping me measure out the doses. I bought a lifetime supply from Amazon
www.amazon.com/3ml-Plastic-Transfer...69&sr=8-1&keywords=transfer+plastic+pippettes
I think there's smaller packs.... LOL
www.amazon.com/3ml-Plastic-Transfer...69&sr=8-1&keywords=transfer+plastic+pippettes
I think there's smaller packs.... LOL
OP
OP
bevoholic
Aquarium Advice Freak
I went up to Walgreens and asked them for some medicine droppers at the pharmacy. They gave me three. I use one to draw out water for my test kit, one to dose excel, and one to dose prime.
CorallineAlgae
Aquarium Advice Addict
I also use different bulb pipettes for each thing I dose. I cut a hard drinking straw about an inch long and tape it to my dosing bottles and slip the pipette in the straw so each bottle has it's own one attached to it. Keeps things neat and tidy. 
For the co2, I found the best results by turning on my co2 about 2-3 hours before lights on, and it turns off about an hour before the lights go out. I do use a controller but it's not necessary to have one at all. It's mostly there to guard against a sudden tank dump but almost everybody does perfectly fine without one.
For the co2, I found the best results by turning on my co2 about 2-3 hours before lights on, and it turns off about an hour before the lights go out. I do use a controller but it's not necessary to have one at all. It's mostly there to guard against a sudden tank dump but almost everybody does perfectly fine without one.
OP
OP
bevoholic
Aquarium Advice Freak
I also use different bulb pipettes for each thing I dose. I cut a hard drinking straw about an inch long and tape it to my dosing bottles and slip the pipette in the straw so each bottle has it's own one attached to it. Keeps things neat and tidy.
For the co2, I found the best results by turning on my co2 about 2-3 hours before lights on, and it turns off about an hour before the lights go out. I do use a controller but it's not necessary to have one at all. It's mostly there to guard against a sudden tank dump but almost everybody does perfectly fine without one.
I would like a controller, but I can't justify the cost right now.
Also, I guess I'm going to have to go get some root tabs. My PCS aren't looking to hot. I don't know if that's because they're adjusting or what, but it wouldn't hurt to get some.
Brian_Nano12g
Aquarium Advice Addict
My experience with PCS is limited.. but IME, it's like a Crypt in that it tends to go through a melt while aclimating to a new tank and lighting. But I think it can still benefit from the tabs. I personally love flourish tabs over other root tab products because it's less soluable and doesn't create a mess if you have to uproot a plant.
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