Fish In Cycling Water Change Questions

[nicuz]

I have a 10 gallon with 3 platies...I started the cycle 3 weeks ago.

All my parameters are 0 (except Ammonia - some days it's 0.25, but mostly 0). Ph is 7.6.

Question: I do 25% water changes every 2-3 days. It this still necessary if my parameters are close to 0?

Any other advice you can provide?

 

[dalto]

It shouldn't be needed from an ammonia/nitrite removal perspective.

You should be able to move to a regular weekly water change schedule.

 

[jetajockey]

Just keep testing, if it goes up past .25 then do a wc, if not, then let it go. I'd still do a weekly wc no matter what it tests, just for good measure till you get a good feel of what is going on in the tank.

 

[Zippyfish]

I agree with the above; until we were comfortable with our water, we did w/c every 2-3, then weekly. After w/c and testing you are comfortable you have the best atmosphere your fish can be happy in.

 

[PB_Smith]

I agree with the others that for the most part you can relax on the frequency of water changes to weekly.
Your tank is most likely at the end of cycling and you could begin to add new fish, but do so slowly and not more than 1-2 at a time to allow the BB to adjust to the new bio-load. Also keep testing water quality after any new additions for about the first week.


What are your nitrate readings?

 

[BBradbury]

Your Tank

I have a 10 gallon with 3 platies...I started the cycle 3 weeks ago.

All my parameters are 0 (except Ammonia - some days it's 0.25, but mostly 0). Ph is 7.6.

Question: I do 25% water changes every 2-3 days. It this still necessary if my parameters are close to 0?

Any other advice you can provide?

Hello nic...

The water chemistry in such a small tank can change quickly, so I would test the water daily. The fish in cycling procedure is very simple. You test the tank water every day for traces of ammonia or nitrite. If you have a positive test, then remove and replace a quarter of the water. In a month or so, you get several daily tests with no traces of the above toxins. The tank is cycled. At this point, you change half the water a couple of times a week to maintain healthy water conditions. Remember to feed sparingly. You don't want uneaten food to foul the water any more than it is during the cycling period.

I'd add some floating plants to help keep the water a bit cleaner during the process. Hornwort is about the best.

Your decision, though. You're the "Head Water Keeper".

B

 

[Zippyfish]

Hello, everyone. I have a 125 gallon tank. I have good pH, ammonia .25 ppm, nitrate 0, but my nitrates are .40-80 ppm. This is after a w/c of 30 gallons treated yesterday. I'm hoping for some suggestions. Had a weekly change on Saturday of 60 gallons, with normal results afterwards. I'm at the end of my test kit has anyone ever experienced a problem with the test kit? Just trying to find a cause for this sudden change in nitrates. Very open to suggestions


Sent from my iPad using Aquarium Advice

 

[dalto]

Hello, everyone. I have a 125 gallon tank. I have good pH, ammonia .25 ppm, nitrate 0, but my nitrates are .40-80 ppm. This is after a w/c of 30 gallons treated yesterday. I'm hoping for some suggestions. Had a weekly change on Saturday of 60 gallons, with normal results afterwards. I'm at the end of my test kit has anyone ever experienced a problem with the test kit? Just trying to find a cause for this sudden change in nitrates.

The API nitrate test kit will give wrong results if you do not follow the instructions very closely. It is not as forgiving as the other kits. I would try the test again.

 

[Zippyfish]

I did bring in a sample of water to my fish store the nitrates were fine. It was the end of nitrate testing drops which were giving me the nitrate reading thankfully. I picked up a new testing kit.


Sent from my iPad using Aquarium Advice