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I'm doing a fishless cycle. My ammonia levels are low & I heard the danios were an option.
Thanks for the vote of confidence. :)


I'm confused. You need to decide to do one or the other, not both. If this is a new tank you should have no ammonia present. Yes, for a fishless cycle, you add ammonia. Here is a calculator Dye free, detergent free, surfactant free ammonia.



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My ammonia level is .5ppm.
I have started using Prime. Do I add the appropriate amount to my aquarium each day ?
I was going, as per a member's advice, to add some zebra danios today, to naturally cycle the tank.
Afterall, there is fish in cycling.
 
I would not worry too much about the 0.5 ppm ammonia. I once had 1.0 ppm ammonia out of the tap a few years back...maybe heavy use of chloramines by the water treatment center at the time?
Just monitor the parameters and do weekly water changes at this point.


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Stocking Fish

I would not worry too much about the 0.5 ppm ammonia. I once had 1.0 ppm ammonia out of the tap a few years back...maybe heavy use of chloramines by the water treatment center at the time?
Just monitor the parameters and do weekly water changes at this point.


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Would I be safe to add some fish to aid in cycling ?
 
I had pygmy corys and they survived a huge ammonia spike of 5.0 and outlived countless guppies in my cycle (am new to tropical tanks but have lived and learned!). Highly recommend these tough little fish ?


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Would I be safe to add some fish to aid in cycling ?


Curious as to why there is any ammonia in the tank. Maybe from the decomposing algae that was scraped off early on. I would do a big WC and then retest the ammonia.
Are you saying "add some fish" as in add more fish to the zebra danios already in there? IMO I would hold off as the zebras should produce enough ammonia to get your cycle started.


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Old school worked in many cases. I am not implying, @ all, that what you are saying is wrong. Great advances have been made in the hobby since I began, but we still managed to have beautiful aquariums. Maybe there were causalities. I don't remember. Now I read, add zebra danios. Since they are speedy surface swimmers, they can tolerate low levels of ammonia & naturally supply what the tank needs. Why can't there be more than one way ? All of these things have worked, just as ammonia has.
Cycling / riding a bike ? Just a joke from an old man. :)

I wasn't saying anything was wrong with old school, i was actually taught that way and I appreciated the joke when I saw you use it.

As for your current situation fish in cycling will be fine. Its worked for decades.
 
I Know, I know. I did it. It is my fault, but is there any hope ? My cycle never finished & I added fish. I thought it had finished.No lectures please. You can't say anything I haven't already said to myself.
Readings @ this point;
PH 6.2
Nitrates 0
Nitrites 0
Ammonia 0


Have you any suggestions for this stupid man ? :(
One member says leave it alone & add Prime, if ammonia & nitrates climb
Another says to do daily small water changes with Prime to prevent them from growing. I'm told it may take longer this way & I may develop a weaker bacteria base, but I am in not rush, " this time."
Any suggestions ?
Help !
Thanks. :)
 
I am doing a fish in cycle. It has been going for about a week.
Nitrates are 0
Nitrites are 0
PH is 7.4
Ammonia is 1.
The increase in ammonia is expected.
My question is what reading, would you consider an ammonia spike ?
 
When fish in cycling you are not looking for spikes.
You are actually trying to avoid them if you want the fish to survive.
Ammonia and nitrite should not be allowed to go over 1 ppm IMO(Many say lower!).
This is achieved by doing water changes to keep the nutrients in check.
% of waterchanged is % the nutrient will be reduced;
IE; 1ppm ammonia and a 50% waterchange should yield a result of .5 ppm
Instead of the spikes many look for in fishless cycles you are looking for zeros for the ammonia and nitrite to claim the cycled title now!
Hope this helps!
 
So Confused

When fish in cycling you are not looking for spikes.
You are actually trying to avoid them if you want the fish to survive.
Ammonia and nitrite should not be allowed to go over 1 ppm IMO(Many say lower!).
This is achieved by doing water changes to keep the nutrients in check.
% of waterchanged is % the nutrient will be reduced;
IE; 1ppm ammonia and a 50% waterchange should yield a result of .5 ppm
Instead of the spikes many look for in fishless cycles you are looking for zeros for the ammonia and nitrite to claim the cycled title now!
Hope this helps!

This is so confusing ! There are as many opinions on cycling as there are people & , the sake of my fish, I want to do it the right way.
One member I have come to trust, says ABSOLUTELY no water changes !
He argues, as many do, that water changes take out the good bacteria that is being built up.
I have a 30 gallon, ammonia 1. What would be your recommendation ? Would you clean the gravel during a water change ?

PS Your handle indicates that you might have a marine tank. Mine is fresh water.
 
I wouldn't trust anyone who says the BB are removed by waterchanges!
Ask them how discus keepers do 80% everyday without their fish dieing?
No waterchanges is for "fishless cycling" as the nutrients have nothing to kill.
Ammonia and nitrite(even worse then ammonia) will kill or shorten the life of the fish
often and can lead to a lowered immune system leaving you with a free disease carrier and incubator!
Two types of cycling and definitely diferent processes.
This is from this site;
http://www.aquariumadvice.com/fishin-cycling-step-dark-side/
Well aware you are FW(I have around 600g FW and 400g marine!)
 
No offence, but this person would say the same of you & could produce just as many, if not more, articles supporting his point of view.
I have started a new thread titled " water changes."
I am looking forward to some great discussion.
Fish in cycling.
Water changes
Yes or no.
Why or why not ?
Hope many weigh in.
 
No offence, but this person would say the same of you & could produce just as many, if not more, articles supporting his point of view.
I have started a new thread titled " water changes."
I am looking forward to some great discussion.
Fish in cycling.
Water changes
Yes or no.
Why or why not ?
Hope many weigh in.

No need...coralbandit summed it up.
 
No offence, but this person would say the same of you & could produce just as many, if not more, articles supporting his point of view.

Good luck with that!(y)
There are many ways to cycle but if ammonia and nitrite were NOT deadly to fish then why would we bother to cycle at all?:facepalm:
Pleas read up on the nitrogen cycle and the damage(deaths) ammonia and nitrite cause fish.
I would hate to provide another article that sided with my point of view(if that is all it is??).:whistle:
No offense taken as this has no effect on my fish at all(back to waterchanges for me!)
 
Sorry

Good luck with that!(y)
There are many ways to cycle but if ammonia and nitrite were NOT deadly to fish then why would we bother to cycle at all?:facepalm:
Pleas read up on the nitrogen cycle and the damage(deaths) ammonia and nitrite cause fish.
I would hate to provide another article that sided with my point of view(if that is all it is??).:whistle:
No offense taken as this has no effect on my fish at all(back to waterchanges for me!)

I am sorry. My intention was never to offend anyone. :(
I was just pointing out what advice had been given to me & am asking others for theirs. Believe me. I am no expert. If I was, I wouldn't have started this thread.
 
Honestly no offense was taken.
I just want you to get accurate correct info and not just any ones opinion.
This is science(not my strongest skill),but still consistent in the method.
There is always a chance that no effort at all will be needed as the growth of BB is a naturally occurring thing when the nutrients are provided.
The water changes are just for the safety of the fish.
Removing the ammonia and nitrites through waterchanges will definitely slow the process but that is what most do to keep the fish alive.
Many cycle with "sacrificial " fish and never sweat it a bit(old school).
The only problem with that is the stress from the nutrients can cause a disease to develop and then your new tank has an issue that can last along time and cost many fish not meant to be sacrificial.
Good luck and change your water.
It is good practice for the water changes you will need to do in keeping your nitrAtes in check for the life of your tank.
Good luck,no hard feelings just trying to help.(y)
 
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