Mebbid's DIY root tabs

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What lighting system do you have over your tank and how tall is the tank?

It could be that the floruish isnt enough for your plants which is common for medium to high light. Its really a sub par fertilizer thats far too expensive for what you get. It does work well for low light tanks though and is easier than other dosing schedules

That ph level wont bother the plants so i wouldnt worry about it.
 
What lighting system do you have over your tank and how tall is the tank?

It could be that the floruish isnt enough for your plants which is common for medium to high light. Its really a sub par fertilizer thats far too expensive for what you get. It does work well for low light tanks though and is easier than other dosing schedules

That ph level wont bother the plants so i wouldnt worry about it.

Val can also be sensitive to liquid carbon dosing. I find it can take time to adjust and the new growth does better.

I have a 48" Aqueon Colormax T5 Dual Light Fixture. The tank is a standard 55 gallon long, and i believe 18in high.

Today i made 200 tabs and used 6 of them. Did a 50% WC and trimed all the dying plant material. Ill take some before photos, and report updates in the coming months.

Can you recommend a better liquid fert? i see other websites selling their own, and was going to try one of them.
 
I have a 48" Aqueon Colormax T5 Dual Light Fixture. The tank is a standard 55 gallon long, and i believe 18in high.

Today i made 200 tabs and used 6 of them. Did a 50% WC and trimed all the dying plant material. Ill take some before photos, and report updates in the coming months.

Can you recommend a better liquid fert? i see other websites selling their own, and was going to try one of them.

Keep in mind that I used a dual t5ho fixture over my 55g that this thread was based off of.

With that being the case I'd really suggest that you move on to dry ferts. Either EI or PPS Pro. They really aren't difficult.. You basically make your own liquid ferts :)

Aquarium Plant Fertilizer | Green Leaf Aquariums
 
Val can also be sensitive to liquid carbon dosing. I find it can take time to adjust and the new growth does better.

Keep in mind that I used a dual t5ho fixture over my 55g that this thread was based off of.

With that being the case I'd really suggest that you move on to dry ferts. Either EI or PPS Pro. They really aren't difficult.. You basically make your own liquid ferts :)

Aquarium Plant Fertilizer | Green Leaf Aquariums

I just read the great thread that CoolGuy started about Dry Ferts. Lots of great info for a n00bie like me with this situation. I will be looking into doing this as well.

As for the light, I honestly have no idea if the light I have is considered high, med or low. I just spoke with the guy at Petsmart who seemed to know about plants, and said that that light would be good for me. How can I tell what type of output my light is?
 
I just read the great thread that CoolGuy started about Dry Ferts. Lots of great info for a n00bie like me with this situation. I will be looking into doing this as well.

As for the light, I honestly have no idea if the light I have is considered high, med or low. I just spoke with the guy at Petsmart who seemed to know about plants, and said that that light would be good for me. How can I tell what type of output my light is?

It's a crapshoot trying to figure out light level with many fixtures. As a general rule of thumb a dual t5ho fixture will give about medium light over a tank that's as tall as a 55g.
 
It's a crapshoot trying to figure out light level with many fixtures. As a general rule of thumb a dual t5ho fixture will give about medium light over a tank that's as tall as a 55g.

This light doesnt say its "High Output or HO" it just says it includes a Colormax lamp and a 6.7K lamp, so im clueless.

Ill be buying THIS light for my new 75. Will this equal "high light"?
 
This light doesnt say its "High Output or HO" it just says it includes a Colormax lamp and a 6.7K lamp, so im clueless.

Ill be buying THIS light for my new 75. Will this equal "high light"?


I would assume that is it NO (normal output). The closest fixture I can match it to from the T5 chart on this link is the Coralife T5 NO: http://plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=184368 The PAR at 15" is about 24 which puts it in the low light range (assuming Low is 10-30, Medium is 30-80, and High is 80+ PAR, respectively).


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I would assume that is it NO (normal output). The closest fixture I can match it to from the T5 chart on this link is the Coralife T5 NO: Lighting an Aquarium with PAR instead of Watts The PAR at 15" is about 24 which puts it in the low light range (assuming Low is 10-30, Medium is 30-80, and High is 80+ PAR, respectively).

Thanks Fresh, what do you think about that LED I am going to get? Would that be considered a high light?

"Ill be buying THIS light for my new 75. Will this equal "high light"?"
 
So I just got 100 00 capsules today, and was wondering how does everyone store the finished capsules.

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I have some that spent 6 months in just a ziploc Baggie by their lonesome. All was well till I splashed a few drops of water in setting up my new tank.

So store them however but don't dry water or wet hands anywhere near them!

A recently empty (clearly labeled) vitamin bottle is handy, as they often have dessicant packs.

Mebbid I just placed my second batch under swords and vals and crypts after a move a month ago. Once again, despite arguably too little light and very spotty excel dosing, they're doing great. The swords were putting out a new leaf every few days and the crypts, many of which were just a scrap of root after a bad melt off, are doing well too. The vals aren't growing much, interestingly, and the rubine swords lost the leaves they had prior to this tank, but I'm still a believer.


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Gave in and made 250 of these for my 75g.

Added Saturday we will see how the results go.

ImageUploadedByAquarium Advice1433175564.568712.jpg


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Gave in and made 250 of these for my 75g.

Added Saturday we will see how the results go.

View attachment 273066


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Did you end up testing ammonia out of interest?

I've got another problem now that the val grows sideways like a carpet and into that I'm growing giant hygro and some other stem plant. I still have clear gravel at the front of tank but back and side have no room to put tabs in without disturbing plants.

Tested nitrates last night and they have sunk to 5ppm even with ferts dosing (made up). So thinking I'll have to increase that or go to dry ferts nitrates dosing like I do for phosphate and potassium. Which just seems crazy I do water changes to freshen tank water and looking like I'll have to add more nitrates back in ....
 
I have not yet. I've been extremely busy with work and school. I'll have to take a moment here soon and test it. All fish look healthy and ate well tonight though.

I made sure to plant the tabs as deep as possible. If my dojo decides to uncover one(he loves to dig in the sand hence why I can't do star repens) then I might be in trouble.


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Has anyone had trouble getting the little used plastic ball osmocote pieces of out of the tank with their syphon? Mine will not pick them up, and its kind of annoying having to use my hands to collect them all.

And how often is everyone re-adding new ones to the tank?
 
Has anyone had trouble getting the little used plastic ball osmocote pieces of out of the tank with their syphon? Mine will not pick them up, and its kind of annoying having to use my hands to collect them all.

And how often is everyone re-adding new ones to the tank?

IME if the plastic balls surface but don't float they aren't used up yet and i just push them back into the substrate. When they are used up they are empty/hollow and float. And then they are easy to remove.

I'm pretty sure the original recommendation was 1 for every 6"x6" area every 1-2 monthes. I'm doing half of that every month with great results so far. I think you have to make a guesstimate based on the kinds and number of plants you have. I'd start with less and see how things change because you can always add more but they can't really be removed.

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IME if the plastic balls surface but don't float they aren't used up yet and i just push them back into the substrate. When they are used up they are empty/hollow and float. And then they are easy to remove.

I'm pretty sure the original recommendation was 1 for every 6"x6" area every 1-2 monthes. I'm doing half of that every month with great results so far. I think you have to make a guesstimate based on the kinds and number of plants you have. I'd start with less and see how things change because you can always add more but they can't really be removed.

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+1 couldnt have said it better myself.

I generally just use 1 root tab per plant that needs it or 1 tab under a small cluster giving it a couple inch clearance away from other root tabs.
 
I saw like a minimum 6 inches between each root tab above, almost positive I have a few that are less than that. I tried to leave at least 2 to 3 inches though what could be the consequences of not putting them 6 inches apart?


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I saw like a minimum 6 inches between each root tab above, almost positive I have a few that are less than that. I tried to leave at least 2 to 3 inches though what could be the consequences of not putting them 6 inches apart?


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Theres not really much wrong that can come of it.
 
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