What media is in your canister?

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realdeal

Aquarium Advice Apprentice
Joined
Feb 12, 2006
Messages
49
Location
New York
I've been doing a lot of reading here and it seems that alot of you do not use carbon in your filters. This surprised me a bit because I've always used carbon.

I have a 36g FW tank with community fish.

Here's what is in my Rena XP2, from the bottom up:

(2) 20 PPI Foam
(2) 30 PPI Foam
Ceramic Rings
Carbon
Microfiltration Pad

What do you use and should I be using something else instead of my current setup?
 
I actually don't have any filters on my aquariums at the moment. All my aquariums are heavily planted, so I let them take care of the Ammonia/Nitrite/Nitrate. On the three larger aquariums I do have a water pump with a DIY spraybar for water movement. On the smallest, I just use the water changes and top offs to provide some water movement.

When I actually did have filters (HOBs) on my aquariums, I settled on using polyfiber cut to fit. This provided both mechanical and biological filtration.
 
http://www.bigalsonline.com/BigAlsUS/ctl3684/cp18405/si1382937/cl0/eheimehfimech5literFor my 75g heavily planted tank I have a Eheim 2126 with Fluval Pre Filter Media in the bottom compartment and Eheim Ehfimech in the second compartment. Everything else is factory provided except the polyfiber filter floss that is added above the Ehimech. I change out the floss everytime I clean the canister. Everything else is quicdkly rinsed in tap water.
 
When I had a canister filter, I used the coarse pad on the bottom, some ceramic bio-rings in the middle, a fine pad on top of the rings, and some filter floss on the very top. I didn't use carbon because it was a planted tank.

Some reasons to run carbon include removing medications, removing odors, or removing discolorations in the water (as from adding new driftwood). Some run carbon during a fishless cycle to help with the ammonia odors if they become strong. A well-maintained tank will not have a disagreeable odor. Otherwise, running carbon all the time really serves no purpose. If you don't remove it and add new carbon every week, it just becomes a reservoir for the good bacteria to grow, and other media such as sponges or bio-rings or noodles are better served for that purpose.
 
In all my cannisters I have filter floss (which I get from Walmart) plastic pot scrubbers, bio balls and ceramic rings.
 
Jebo 825 Canister

Coarse pad on top
Other than that I have filter wool pads and ceramic noodles

There is an interesting thread on this very topic here
www.fishforum.com.au |Aquariums|Discus|ADA|Fish|:: View topic - New Filter Media

I have cut the most interesting bit

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The placing of filter material is specific to positioning within the filter based on the design of what each type of media is there for..

The Bottom Basket should contain:
Ceramic Noodles followed by 1 of the course sponges.

The purpose of this is based on Mechanical Filtration. The larger ceramic noodles actually break up the water flow, to allow the water to flow through the media more evenly.. The Course Sponge prevents the larger waste particals from passing throught to the Bio-Logical Media.

Second/Middle Basket:
Second Sponge Filter Pad followed by Bio-Logical Substrate - ie: Seachem Matrix, JBL Micro Mec, Ehfi-substrate

This is where most of the Bio-Logical activity lives to convert Ammonia to Nitrite to Nitrate. The cleaner the water passing through this area, the longer this substarte lasts. Should replace 50% every 12mhts to ensure the surface area where the bacteria live is unblocked for more efficentcy.

Top Basket:
Bio-Balls followed by Filter wool. Either more Bio-logical substrate as mentioned above, or the original Bio Balls supplied with the AquaOne Filter. No need to use more then a single layer of filter wool, as this will allow the filter to block more easily, and possible slow down the flow rate.

This is where the water is "Polished" to be as clean and free from debri as possible.

When it comes to deciding on Bil-Logical Substrate, the difference between one brand and another s Surface Area. Eheim and SeaChem claim to have 450m2 of surface area per 1ltr of Substrate, whilst JBL promotes they have 1500m2 of surface area, meaning the JBL is 3 times more efficent then the other 2.

The main reason why Eheim filters are the price they are, is because they come jam packed with media and Bio-Logical Substrate, where most other filter brands skimp on this detail allowing them to be cheaper. If you were to buy enough media to fill the average filter like an Eheim, the cost is almost the same.

Volcanic Scoria is a very cheap alternative, and has very little surface area compared to sphinted glass, which is what most Bio-Logical media's is made of. The flaw with volcanic scoria is, it clogs easily and can become anerobic as it pours block, removing the surface area and ability for the nitrifying Bacteria to process waste within the aquarium. Terrible lesson to learn when things go wrong.

Professional aquarium keepers ensure their filtration is at its best at all time, which in turn rewards you and you fish with better health and water conditions. This can be proven by conducting regular ammonia (NH3/4) and nitrite (No2) tests. Your filter is the Heart of your Aquarium!! Look after the heart, and the heart will look after your water.
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Some wise words here. I'm sure others might have some opinions on these statements.
 
my tank is a medium planted, and i run only a sponge as filtration, to allow the cycle bacterias to settle, and as well as filter the big particles from the water.

the fish and plants do the rest


i have a carbon bag in the filter, but honestly it's there since pre-history, i doubt that it has any other effect then holding the sponge in place.
 
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