Tom's 55G Saltwater

[TommyP]

Sounds good, I see now why a 20 long would make more sense. If I can fit a 20 I will def do it. If not, the 10 will have to suffice and if I can fit the skimmer down there two that's a plus. If not, I'll keep it in the DT. Now for parts, The pump I have to get for the return would be 700 gph, and I would just need to see what the overflow comes with. and get extra parts from there on out. What size piping would I need to go with if it doesnt come with for the return? Also for the overflow assuming it doesnt come with anything besides the box.

[TommyP]

Originally Posted by Jaketit

This is my reef octopus on my sump. Works pretty good. I just had to modify alittle.
Attachment 144481

Thank you!

[mr_X]

If the bulkhead on the bottom of the overflow is 1", which is what it should be, you want at least a 1" piece of pool hose connected on the bottom of it. You will probably have to glue a 1" piece of pvc into the bottom of the bulkhead so you can attach the pool hose. You will need a hose clamp for that. Just wait until you get the overflow box and go from there.
As for return line- you want the line to match your pumps outgoing end.
For instance, a Quiet One 3000 has a 1" exhaust port, and a Danner Magdrive 9.5 has a 3/4" outlet.
You are going to want to purchase a balll valve for whichever pump you choose so you can throttle it down to the right gph. ( always connect the ball valve to the exhaust end, NOT the intake) You want to choose a matching pump, but you have to also take into consideration head loss.

[TommyP]

Thanks. I don't mean to sound under educated but what do you mean by head loss ? Amount of water that flows through pipes and elbows etc? How will this play into effect ?

[TommyP]

If I'm not mistaken the intake piping only runs from the overflow of water down the pipe this is not controlled by a pump right?

[HovaRockz]

Right....

[TommyP]

Just double checking lol. So I just gotta buy the 700gph pump for return check the outlet size and connect a ball valve to that with a hose or PVC pipe that goes up the back if my tank to that u spout Doug showed me earlier. Then check the fitting on the overflow box and have most likely a 1" hose returning down to a filter sock. In the same chamber as the filter sock I put my macro algae with a light from Home Depot for example opposite schedule as the DT tank. The water would then flow past macro algae over under some walls to help reduce bubbles to the second chamber where my return pump would be. This space would also include my skimmer, if it fits. Good?

[TommyP]

Sorry I'm a complete noob with sump/fuge. This is the first for me. Thanks I've learned a lot so far

[Daniel Fishy]

I did a 20 long best thing I ever did for tank . But to get if under tank I had to drain the tank , remove lr and corals. Lift the display tank off and drop the refigium in. 15 seconds to drop in sump 4 hours to put everything back together but well worth it can you drop it in if so well with it.

[TommyP]

Thanks a lot. Maybe I can get some of my boys together and lift the tank so I can pull out the stand quick slide the 20long under and put the stand back so they can put the tank back down. Going to be pretty hard but I really don't want to empty it. It's a 55 so heavy as hell. My dad seems to think we can move it, I think he's wrong lol.

[HovaRockz]

I'm sure he is very wrong move it is one thing but lift it off the stand is another I know because I tried it to no avail and there was 3 of us

[Daniel Fishy]

One time deal mines a 75 and I dreaded it but know I'm glad I did. I had two 400s still have one on. My lfs said take it slow with removing everything at once.

[TommyP]

Yeah. It's on the carpet so maybe we can carefully slide one side out and then slide it back in but I highly, Highly doubt it.

[mr_X]

I would not attempt to move a full tank. The tank is designed to hold water when on a flat surface, not while it's being moved around. You could compromise the seals. I would take a jigsaw to one of the sides of the stand before I moved the tank.

Head loss is the GPH lost due to water traveling up and through 90's and 45s. This is why I suggested a mag 9.5 (950 gph) or a Quiet One 3000 (819 gph) for your 700 gph overflow.

[TommyP]

Oh I understand. So you need a bigger pump for the return and the overflow doesnt need a pump though, so I was going to just get the one 700 gph return pump with the ball valve to control it.

[mr_X]

No. What size overflow box are you buying? If you are buying a 700 gph model, you will want a pump that's slightly larger than that, to account for head loss.
the overflow box simply overflows into the sump. The return pump sends water back to the display. If the water going back to the display is too little, the HOB overflow box will lose siphon. If it's too much, the overflow box won't be able to drain fast enough to keep the display from overflowing.

[TommyP]

I gotcha. Thanks Doug I was just getting a little confused. It says Eshopps PF-800 overflow box. I assume 800gph then.

[mr_X]

Then use a mag 9.5 or a quiet one 4000 and throttle back till you find the sweet spot.

[Daniel Fishy]

Originally Posted by HovaRockz

I'm sure he is very wrong move it is one thing but lift it off the stand is another I know because I tried it to no avail and there was 3 of us

Drain the tank! Please read all that was stated before wronging people!

[Daniel Fishy]

I went with the 800 and mag 7 for my tank perfect setup. Not a ripping flow thru fuge plenty of flow thru overflow and no dailing back. Less power consumed to. Advice came from two lfs with design of fuge over 20 years of exp. just wanting to help and save some cash.