New Tank with Fish Cycling Help!

[livandme]

Hi All - I just got into this fish-keeping thing. I have a 10g tank that I did not cycle before I added fish - I learned about all of this after I set it all up....
So now - I am monitoring my water using the API FW master kit - I was doing 25% water changes daily for about 5 days - my ammonia levels are up now but still no Nitrites or Nitrates. I haven't done a water change in 2 days - but plan on doing another tomorrow. I am afraid all the water changes are slowing the process down/stressing out my fish.
The ammonia is giving me a reading of 4 - which is supposedly super toxic to the fish. All of my fish seem fine - I did initially lose 2 Rasboras and later a guppy - but the others seem to be acting normal.

I have Tetra Ammonia Safe - the tabs. Should I use them? I know my kit will still read that there is ammonia in there - but I would rather keep my fish alive and have an false reading than poison all the fish. I assume once the cycle moves to the next stage and the Ammonia drops - the test will reveal that regardless of using Ammonia Safe or not.

Any suggestions? I keep reading that additives are not the way to go. The Tetra Brand website says the tablets won't slow down my cycle.

I have 5 (small) Harlequin Rasboras
1 3 lined Cory
1 Platy

Thanks for any help!

 

[jetajockey]

Yes, water changes do slow the cycling process down some. But they also keep the fish alive. What's your pH at? I suggest doing some large water changes as often as you need to to keep the ammonia reading down. Ammonia toxicity is pH and temperature dependent but usually keeping the ammonia levels below 1ppm is a good start.

 

[livandme]

Thanks - my pH is about 7.4 - right in the middle of the pH and high pH test - so it is hard to tell. (or maybe I am just not very experienced at reading them yet...)
My temp is consistently 78.

I will do a water change this evening and see how it goes...

 

[andrea_]

I was told by my LFS to wait 6-8 weeks before any water changes

I did a fish in cycle as well, did my first 20% water change today and took my water into my local fish store for testing and it was perfect, 100% cycled


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[jetajockey]

Well if you want to keep the fish alive you need to change the water. It's kind of a trade off when fish-in cycling, it's a balancing act between keeping the water safe for the fish to live in and also getting the tank cycled in a timely manner.

 

[Caliban07]

Yes according to scientific studies it is the free unionised from of ammonia nh3 that is toxic and it is only needed in quantities as little as 0.025 ppm to harm fish.

The API test kit is measuring both nh3 ammonia) and nh4 (ammonium) which is much less or non toxic to fish. The 4ppm is the total ammonia nitrogen reading.

As jeta said, the percentage of nh3 and nh4 is ph and temperature dependent so as both rise the percentage of toxic nh3 increases.

http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forums/f12/your-guide-to-ammonia-toxicity-159994.html

If you look at this chart you can see where your toxic nh3 level is depending on your ph and temp.

The ammonia alert tester (I think by seachem) measures just the toxic ammonia and may be a good investment as an early indication of an immediate water change.

On the whole though, you should continue to do water changes but also test your tap water using all the tests in the API test kit.


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[livandme]

I went ahead and used the AmmoniaSafe. I have seen charts similar to that Caliban07 - which is why I was kinda getting nervous.
I tested my tap water and it did read a 1ppm - but I was told by my LFS that I should let the water sit for 24 hours before testing.

Also - I live in MN - the guy at the LFS said that in the Winter here, I should always age my water for at least 24-48 hours before I change it. He said something about gas bubbles in the water out of the tap burning the fish?

The fish seem normal this morning - I guess I will just test and see.

If I am still reading ammonia - should I continue with 25% water changes - or could I do smaller percentages - like 10% a day - so I don't stall or slow down the cycle but keep the fishes safe.

 

[BBradbury]

Fish In Tank Cycling

Hello liv...

A 10 gallon tank is difficult to manage, even for an experienced "waterkeeper". There's not much water to dilute dissolved wastes that can kill fish. 25 percent water changes are best. They keep the fish relatively safe and allow the good bacteria to grow.

At this point, test the water daily. If you have a trace of either ammonia or nitrite, then change out a quarter of the tank water. Seachem's "Safe" is best water treatment I've found in the decade I've been in the hobby.

Add a good floating plant to the tank. Hornwort is a good one. It's inexpensive and available at most pet stores. Just drop individual stems into the tank. The plant grows and helps keep the water a bit cleaner.

Keep monitoring the tank water and changing it when needed. In a month or so, you'll have several tests that show no trace of the above toxins. The tank is cycle.

Consider getting a larger tank. 30 gallons is just right. The larger the tank, the better your chances of success in this hobby.

B

 

[livandme]

I tested the water this morning and the Ammonia is going down (1ppm) and Nitrites going up! (.25ppm) - seems my cycle has finally started!

My pH dropped to 7 - not sure if that was because of water change or what?

BBradbury - I would love to get my hands on a larger tank - you spurred a Craigslist Frenzy. There is a great local shop that sells used tanks too - I think I might treat myself to that some time next year. I have put so much money into this already - it is kind of shocking.

I have Seachem Prime on the way - I read that "Safe" is a concentrated version of that. I have seen a lot of people mention that the Prime is their 1st choice for water conditioning/general maintenance. Would getting the "Safe" be beneficial over this month? I could probably grab it from one of the LFS I am close to.

 

[BBradbury]

Water Treatment

Hello again liv...

I found Seachem's "Safe" less expensive . I've used both and both work well.

B

 

[livandme]

less expensive is always a good thing!
thanks