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ButterstheAngel

Aquarium Advice Regular
Joined
Jul 22, 2022
Messages
65
Hello! New to tanks but rescued a 3” angelfish that was getting bullied in a large tank at work. My 20g tank is 17 days old (put her in 7 days ago), no nitrites or chemicals, 6.5 pH, 78F, 3 mollies, 2 plants, 20% water changes 2-3x.

There’s obvious fin rot so am on day 6 of metronidazole. Barely any top fin, half of side fin missing, cloudy white back fin. I was told to dose the tank from a 30 year fish store owner along with replacing the carbon filter with plain foam. I also added ~3T of aquarium salt total within the last week. She was eating blood worms and tropical flakes and swimming- but yesterday having more trouble staying upright after eating (due to fin loss she’s never been a strong swimmer really).

Was I wrong with the meds? Is the fin rot killing her? Am I missing something? Please help! If she’s suffering I’m debating euthanasia but I’m very hesitant how or when.
 
Please take a read through the "unhealthy fish" sticky and provide as much detail as you are able.

https://www.aquariumadvice.com/forums/f17/before-posting-about-unhealthy-fish-read-this-32451.html

The only water parameters you mention are nitrite and pH and im not sure what you mean by "chemicals". Do you know your ammonia and nitrate?

A 17 day old tank wont be cycled. Without knowing your water parameters its difficult to say how much of an issue you have.

Metronidazole. Are you using an antibiotic intended for humans are is it a fish medication that contains metronidazole like metroplex? Its not a medication im familiar with but my medication resource indicates its a good medication for internal parasites and hole in the head. Doesnt mention fin rot.
 
Please take a read through the "unhealthy fish" sticky and provide as much detail as you are able.

https://www.aquariumadvice.com/forums/f17/before-posting-about-unhealthy-fish-read-this-32451.html

The only water parameters you mention are nitrite and pH and im not sure what you mean by "chemicals". Do you know your ammonia and nitrate?

A 17 day old tank wont be cycled. Without knowing your water parameters its difficult to say how much of an issue you have.

Metronidazole. Are you using an antibiotic intended for humans are is it a fish medication that contains metronidazole like metroplex? Its not a medication im familiar with but my medication resource indicates its a good medication for internal parasites and hole in the head. Doesnt mention fin rot.
Nitrate is 0, ammonia is 1, chlorine is 0, water is soft, alkalinity is low.

Not sure if it’s human, but I think it is. It says 400 Flagyl on it and is round and yellow. What would you use for fin rot?
 
1ppm ammonia is too much, and seeing zero nitrate is a clear sign you arent cycled.

Do you know how to cycle a tank?

Yes i think flagyl is a human medication. Are you sure you are using a correct dose for fish?

As to what i would use, first off i wouldnt medicate a main display tank if i could avoid it. Can you quarantine the fish in a tank on its own and treat in there?

Im from the UK and we dont have access to over the counter antibiotics available for instance in the US. So im not in a good position to make recommendations on medications when you might have access to better stuff than i do. I would look for something that says it treats fin rot. If you dont improve your water quality, medication wont really achieve very much though. Pristine water and a stressfree environment are at least as important as medication.

If you cant isolate your fish i would change 50% of the water as soon as you are able and then work on cycling the tank.
 
I’m just learning, like I said, I’m new. The other fish almost killed her though (already killed another Angel), so I had to get her out of that tank. I’m adding Microbe Lift daily and trying to get it cycled ASAP.

Yes I’m sure the dose is correct and am now reading it’s used for fin rot (both gram + and -). It’s good to know the water quality is just as important as meds! Thank you for your feedback!
 
To cycle a tank you need to grow denitrifying bacteria to consume ammonia and nitrite that your tank produces. The bacteria needs an ammonia source to grow colonies sufficient in size to consume all the ammonia and resultant nitrite and turn it into nitrate which typically you remove through your regular water changes.

A fish in cycle uses fish waste as an ammonia source and regular water changes are undertaken to ensure that water parameters are maintained at relatively non toxic levels.

Set up your tank. Make sure everything is running smoothly. Make sure you have used a water conditioner product with any tap water you have put in your tank. Seachem Prime is a water conditioner that will also detoxify some ammonia for a day or two, so is a good choice for a water conditioner while cycling a tank with fish.

You should have a test kit. Preferably a liquid test kit. It should test for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate.

In ideal circumstances you should be starting a fishless cycle with a low bioload (number of fish). 1 small fish per 10 gallons/40 litres is a good number of fish, but this can be tweaked a little for fish that are social and don’t do well on their own. Ideally a hardy type of fish. You may have fully stocked (or overstocked) your tank before you knew about cycling. In these circumstances, if its not possible to return fish, you will have to make the best of it.

If you haven’t already done so, add your fish. Acclimate them to the water in your tank before doing so.

Feed lightly to start with. Daily as much as is eaten in 2 minutes, or as much as is eaten in 3 minutes every 2 days. You can increase to full feedings if you are confident your parameters aren’t getting too elevated too quickly and water changes don’t become a daily thing.

Start to regularly test the water for ammonia and nitrite. At least daily. Depending on your bioload you could start to see ammonia quite quickly. Nitrite will likely take a little longer to appear.

Your target should be to keep ammonia + nitrite combined no higher than 0.5ppm by changing water whenever your water parameters exceed this target. 0.5ppm combined is a level of waste that is sufficient for your cycle to establish but relatively safe for your fish.

If you see 0.5ppm ammonia and 0.0ppm nitrite (0.5ppm combined) then leave things be. If you see 0.5ppm ammonia and 0.25ppm nitrite (0.75ppm combined) then change 1/3 of the water. If you see 0.25ppm ammonia and 0.75ppm nitrite (1.0ppm combined) then change 1/2 the water. If water parameters get worse than these levels it may require multiple daily 50% water changes to maintain safe water conditions. This is more likely to happen with a fully stocked tank.

Remember to add water conditioner whenever you put tap water in the tank.

Over time the frequency of water changes and amount you need to change to maintain your ammonia + nitrite combined target will reduce. You can also start testing for nitrate and should see this rising. If you are finding the ammonia and nitrite in your tests are consistently low, and you aren’t already fully stocked, you can add a few more fish. It may take a few weeks to get to this point.

Once you add a few more fish, continue to regularly test the water and continue to change water if you exceed the 0.5ppm combined ammonia + nitrite target. With added bioload the frequency of water changes and amount you need to change may increase again until your cycle has caught up. Again once you are consistently seeing low ammonia and nitrite you can add some more fish. Rinse and repeat with testing, water changes, and adding fish when safe to do so until you are fully stocked.

You can then cut back on water changes to control nitrate only. Typically you want to keep nitrate no higher than 40ppm, but I would recommend changing some water every 2 weeks even if your water test says you don’t need to.

A fish in cycle from an empty tank to fully stocked can take several months.

A good way to speed up this process would be to put a small amount of filter media from an established filter into your filter, or get a sponge from an established filter and squeeze it into your tank water. Perhaps you have a friend who keeps fish who could let you have some? This will seed your filter with the bacteria you are trying to grow and speed up the process.

Another option is bottled bacteria like Dr Tims One + Only or Tetra Safestart. These products wont instantly cycle a tank as they claim but in a similar manner to adding established filter media they can seed your filter with the bacteria you are trying to grow to establish your cycle. These products are hit and miss as to whether they work at all, but are an option if established filter media isnt obtainable and may speed up the process from several months to several weeks.
 
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