Cave Aquarium Build Journal

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I am in the planning stages of a new 75 gallon build, so I thought I would track my progress here (and a good way for me to keep a log of what I'm doing!)...would love feedback as I go.

The Plan

75 gallon, 48" long. Soil substrate with mix of black gravel and sand cap. Decorated with gathered driftwood and rocks. Live plants. Air bubble wall. Canister filtered. Standard T5 fixture on 36" of it. A custom cave wall with a hollow inside, open to the left/front of the tank. Above it a shelf with a dip for a lightly planted sand shelf, and a flat basking area for a small musk turtle. Interior cave will be illuminated with underwater LEDs affixed to the underside of the rock shelf, and decorated with thin "roots" and a thick supporting piece of driftwood. Fish stocking TBD (most will probably migrate from my existing 30 gallon).


I've attached an image that I made as my plan drawing.

What I have

A plan.

What I still need










Everything else. :fish1:




Just fell upon this thread. Looks Awesome! Be careful with the turtle though as they WILL eat your fish. Awhile back I had a Painted turtle that devoured my Pleco even though it was about 2.5". Get a smaller turtle and make sure you add small, fast fish or fish too large for the turtle's mouth. I believe musks are a smaller species. Anyway, can't wait too see the tank up and running!
 
Now that the cave is done I'm going to start building the stand this weekend. Plans are still in the napkin phase, attached a pic.
 

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I've always wanted to build a nice stand for some of my tank they always just end up on a piece of furniture in the House
It should turn out great, nice drawings.
 
Getting the plans a little more detailed. Anyone see any structural issues here? Need more 2x4 crossbeams? The stand portion will be about 36-40" floor to bottom of aquarium. 2x4 pine framing with oak boards on the front and oak panel on the sides. The top of the stand will be a 2x4 framing capped with 1x4 pine boards, which will be flush with the edges of the tank. Trim will go around and the tank will sit in the resulting recessed space, enough to hide the tank frame. 3 doors. Left will be open and enclosed completely with plywood with holes for tubing and electrical. Middle will have 1 shelf for electrical, plugs, timers, and cleaning equipment. Right will have multiple shelves (3-4) for supplies, food, etc.

Hood will be 1x2 framing with oak panels and trim. The middle will open completely with exception of the lower trim piece, hinged from the back top, for access to the aquarium, lights, etc.
 

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Not being a structural engineer, I would say what you have there you could park a car on as long as it is screwed and glued properly.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Aquarium Advice mobile app
 
that'll be a nice stand when it gets built. i made the one for my 30g about 15 years ago and still holds. i just used some 2x4's and lag bolts. I've considered adding doors to the front to make it look nicer but my luck that'll be when it fails.
 
After a week of curing I decided to try to soak the cave structure. It floats a LOT more than I thought it would, as in I can barely hold it down underwater. Not sure what to do about that.

Some pieces have also chipped off exposing the foam underneath.
 
Use some rare Earth magnets.. Affix a metal to the cave's bottom, put magnets under tank. Use whatever kind of rubber shims/spacers needed to make sure glass will not flex..
 
I'd go with silicon. You can always razor blade it off if you change up the tank, and you know it's safe
 
I don't think magnets would have enough strength. I wonder if I can somehow melt away some of the interior foam. I probably also need to seal it somehow to keep it from crumbling/cracking away. Not sure what to use yet there. Clear epoxy maybe. Or clearcoat. I wonder if Krylon clearcoat is inert?

Silicon is probably the best bet. I tried holding it down at the base to simulate siliconing it there but I think it's too buoyant. I may have to silicon the entire back of it to the back of the glass. But...would that much force being exerted on the glass damage the tank itself? And would I be able to remove it if, say, later on the cave doesn't last the test of time?
 
Silicone will not hold long term , try creating a bracket in either side to fasten to ?
 
What kind of bracket do you suggest?

Looks like I'll be hauling the tank back out into the back porch to experiment with it.
 
silicone has been holding my tank together for decades. how long is long term? I think siliconing it to the bottom is the best bet. make sure it's completely dry before doing it and let it cure for at least 3 days before putting water in it. and dont be stingy with the silicone either.
 
silicone has been holding my tank together for decades. how long is long term? I think siliconing it to the bottom is the best bet. make sure it's completely dry before doing it and let it cure for at least 3 days before putting water in it. and dont be stingy with the silicone either.
not saying it won't work for a while .. 2-3 years later it could let go ?? Your tank has tension bands around the top and bottom??? Op, I'd create something to push down from upper rim..maybe another piece of foam or plastic??
 
I know eggs, when something as buoyant as foam is placed under water there is a tremendous amount if force wanting to surface this foam, based on feed back from people doing 3-d backgrounds, silicone, no matter how liberally applied, seems to fail more often than not, just like working on a house, those who rely solely on silicone seem to fade fast.. Structural bracing is always best..
 
My first thought was lead, but that causes cancer in California. You may have to build a new cave with just a mesh frame and quickcrete, or add a larger quickcrete base to the existing structure.

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