trimming plants

[calfishguy]

I had some problems with my plants and most of their leaves were seriously damaged with large holes. I know I have to cut them off so they can grow new leaves but that would mean cutting the majority of not all of the leaves on some of my plants. Do I only cut the worst ones. Wait for them to grow new leaves and cut some more. I'm not sire how to proceed here???

PS I think the problem that caused the issue has been resolved.

 

[Darwin]

most plants can handle with 1/4 of the leaves cut. cut the worst ones this week and then when the other turn a little brown cut them. some can even take a total trim if they have a strong root system but Maybe you should post what kind of plant is in question that might help other answer

 

[Rivercats]

Yes knowing the type of plants involved will help alot.

 

[calfishguy]

Yes knowing the type of plants involved will help alot.

Green crypts, red wndtii, amazon swords, corkscrew vals.

 

[Rivercats]

Swords can handle pretty heavy pruning. Crypts take the worst leaves off but no more than half. Then once leaves begin growing in you can finish cutting the bad ones off. The Corkscrew Val I would leave alone as it will straighten itself out by growing new leaves and the old ones will melt off. I never mess much with my CV.

 

[calfishguy]

Swords can handle pretty heavy pruning. Crypts take the worst leaves off but no more than half. Then once leaves begin growing in you can finish cutting the bad ones off. The Corkscrew Val I would leave alone as it will straighten itself out by growing new leaves and the old ones will melt off. I never mess much with my CV.

Thanks river cats.

 

[calfishguy]

Thanks river cats.

I'm noticing that some of my new crypt leaves appear to be torn near the edge and that my amazon swords are yellowing near the ends and are slightly browning as well. I dose the entire seachem line or ferts with the recommended dosing.

 

[calfishguy]

I'm noticing that some of my new crypt leaves appear to be torn near the edge and that my amazon swords are yellowing near the ends and are slightly browning as well. I dose the entire seachem line or ferts with the recommended dosing.

Is it possible that I don't have enough carbon. I only dose excel.

Here are some pics

 

[Rivercats]

Those pic's show signs of nutrient deficiencies. Kind of looks like phosphate and nitrate deficiency. If you have any plants that are getting pin holes in them that is a sign of potassium deficiency. It would be better and way cheaper to just start using dry ferts. You can get over a years worth for $20.

 

[calfishguy]

Those pic's show signs of nutrient deficiencies. Kind of looks like phosphate and nitrate deficiency. If you have any plants that are getting pin holes in them that is a sign of potassium deficiency. It would be better and way cheaper to just start using dry ferts. You can get over a years worth for $20.

I know but for personal reasons I can't do dry ferts. I will cut the damaged leaves. As I've only been dosing the ferts for a few weeks I hope that the new leaves will be fine. I might also try to get my hands on pressurized co2/a large test kit to test all my levels. Do you think the addition of a pressurized system will help.

 

[foster53]

Adding CO2 might actually make the problem worse. The plants will try to uptake ferts that arent there.

 

[Rivercats]

CO2 or liquid carbon is a good thing but won't help with nutrient deficiencies. If you have the Seachem line then try increasing the dosage on the macro nutrients (nitrogen, phosphates, potassium). If you've been dosing them for a few weeks you should already be seeing a difference. Also using CO2 will mean you need to increase your ferts.

 

[calfishguy]

CO2 or liquid carbon is a good thing but won't help with nutrient deficiencies. If you have the Seachem line then try increasing the dosage on the macro nutrients (nitrogen, phosphates, potassium). If you've been dosing them for a few weeks you should already be seeing a difference. Also using CO2 will mean you need to increase your ferts.

Okay so since my new stem plants that mainly feed on the water column are looking okay, I added more root tabs at the base of my heavy root feeders, and trimmed the worst leaves. I hope that this will help. Do you guys know of a good book that could help with learn more about plants.

Thanks.

 

[Rivercats]

With all the information on the net you really don't need any books IMO but I'm sure there has to be a couple good ones out there. Just check the reviews on them before buying.

 

[calfishguy]

One more question river cats. I've been adding my ferts at night after the lights turn off instead of in the morning as I am usually in a rush. Does this affect anything.

 

[bshenanagins]

One more question river cats. I've been adding my ferts at night after the lights turn off instead of in the morning as I am usually in a rush. Does this affect anything.

Plants don't do much at night except release carbon dioxide so it's better to add ferts during the lighting period for maximum absorption as photosynthesis only takes place during this time.

 

[calfishguy]

Plants don't do much at night except release carbon dioxide so it's better to add ferts during the lighting period for maximum absorption as photosynthesis only takes place during this time.

I know that I'm asking if it makes a difference if I add the ferts for the next day the night before or the morning of is better.

 

[jetajockey]

It doesn't matter, they stay in the system until used, for the most part. The only thing I would do is be sure to dose after water changes and not before.

I'm going to second Rivercats and say dry ferts are ultimately the way to go, but you can get the whole line of macros and micros from seachem or another source, you just end up paying them to put the dry ferts into water for you.

 

[Rivercats]

As Jeta says it doesn't matter but I prefer adding mine in the morning,

 

[calfishguy]

It doesn't matter, they stay in the system until used, for the most part. The only thing I would do is be sure to dose after water changes and not before.

I'm going to second Rivercats and say dry ferts are ultimately the way to go, but you can get the whole line of macros and micros from seachem or another source, you just end up paying them to put the dry ferts into water for you.

Okay I'll keep doing what I'm doing.

In your opinions would I better to invest in a co2 set up or in a master test kit that will allow me to test my potassium iron etc. also how much more would I have to fertilize if I added co2 I have t5no 6700k 18 watt lighting it's on a 29. Plants are swords crypts roseafolia ludwigia repens.