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I think I found the problem. See this link. http://www.aquariumadvice.com/viewtopic.php?t=87462

I think I've found the source that is causing your KH test kit interference...how long have you been adding calcium citrate? Citrate will skew your KH test kit into reporting more KH than you really have...thus with a falsely higher KH your CO2 levels erroneously seem higher too. Calcium citrate...

Just want to point out that you want to be careful what you wish for...LOL! Stargrass when healthy and growing is very high maintenance. I love the plant but finally gave it up as it grows too fast. Shading can cause the problems you have too. You should probably check you pH right before lights...

Would you consider dosing KNO3? IME you would need a huge, I mean huge bioload to avoid dosing lots of NO3 based on the nutrient loading you are currently dosing. If you are basing your NO3 levels on a test kit that may be the problem. Even my professional grade LaMotte NO3-N test kit is shaky...

Personally I have complete faith that if you set your mind to it you will succeed with the non-CO2 approach...you just need to find the sweet spot. Once the algae is controlled the CO2 demand will lessen a great deal. The blackout should help but it won't kill all the BBA...if its actually a...

Congrats on getting the pressurized system. Once you have it you'll wonder why it took so long to buy it. Regarding the solenoid. I don't currently use a solenoid. They have been the weak link in the system too many times for me. Unless you want a pH controlled system there is really no need for...

Possibly K overdosing but that usually is only associated with low calcium levels. How much KNO3 are you adding weekly. It appears like its an N deficiency to me. Are you dosing NO3 based on test kit readings or just a set amount per week?

I say I dose dry, but in reality I do the same as the others. I add a single dry of each I'm adding to a 16oz. water bottle filled with some tank water, then cap and shake to dissolve. My fish will definitely eat the KNO3 if dosed dry, which probably isn't a good thing long term. For small tanks...

I'm sorry for my lack of patience too. I rarely ever react that way...I understand completely about having a bad week, mine has been less than stellar too. Lets forget that and move on to fixing what you've got going. Manually removing can mean removal of some of the worse infected leaves...

You were so intent on dismissing my information you failed to read my recommendation I posted earlier. I love to offer help to people. Included in that help is suggestions on how to do things differently next time...but I always include to best option for the current situation. It is obvious...

Really? And do you currently have algae...yes you do. Do I have algae when I silent cycle? No, myself and hundreds of other using this method do not. You don't see a connection between algae and plants? Okay, lets look at this logically. I'm not trying to be a smarty pants, just want to defend...

It depends on what the beginning CO2 levels are...meaning, if your CO2 levels are 30ppm then no a drop of 3ppm to 27ppm won't cause a move in pH. But if your CO2 is 3.1ppm and drops to 0.1 the change is pH is huge...check the CO2 charts for reference. This is the start of biogenic...

There are really several ways to fishless cycle a tank. One of the worst methods is trying to combine adding lots of ammonia and plants...the two are a recipe for major algal problems. I silent cycle CO2 injected tanks with an algae eating crew added immediately. It requires using mainly fast...

Yes, as KH increases so does pH. I've seen CO2 levels at 100ppm not cause problems if O2 levels are also very high. The problems occur much lower if O2 levels are low. Thats not to say I fully believe the CO2 levels are being properly determined, several factors can interfere with either test...

Fishless cycling with ammonia and live plants is a recipe for algae. Ammonia is the number one cause of algal blooms. Adding more ammonia will only fuel more problems. Fishless cycling is best done prior to adding plants, or following a method called silent cycling where the tank is cycled with...

You must have substrate, rock, or other decorations that have calcium carbonate. Calcium carbonate is largely insoluble...but carbonic acid increases is solubility, so yes, the more CO2 in your water the more carbonic acid and the faster calcium carbonate dissolves.

I buy my Lamotte reagent refills from Aquatic Eco-Systems. http://www.aquaticeco.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/product.detail/iid/467/cid/68

Additionally, for plant identification "Aquarium Plants, the Practical Guide" by Pablo Tepoot is great. Excellent photos, though the text is lacking. But, without question for me the two best choices are the Walstad and Kasselmann books. Another nice book to have though it is out of print so you...

Excellent article, very thorough yet easy to understand. You have developed a great teaching tool! Well done.

Hello Mollielover, sounds as though we might have a few things in common. I have been a fishkeeper for about 30 years and live in the Jacksonville Southside area. I'm not aware of any currently active clubs or societies. Are you primarily Freshwater, Saltwater, Reefer, or a combination...

Linda, you want to buy a Fleet enema, green box, 4.5oz. When looking at the green main side of the box, rotate the box one turn counterclockwise and you should see the Active Ingredients listed per 118ml dose...note that the bottle contains 133ml thus the discrepancy in the actually dose we...

I like to use Riccia mounds...here's how I do it, scroll about halfway down the page. http://www.aquariaplants.com/plantingtips.htm

Seachem also has posted about some temporary problems with Vals having sensitivity to Excel, their recommendation was to start with a half dose for the first two week and then increase. The problem (Excel sensitivity) seems to occur with plants that have a greater ability to strip carbon from...

This is not information for Dummies, but it was written by one if that counts. LOL! I tried to keep the information basic and offer info that new people need such as planting instructions. http://www.aquariaplants.com/index.htm

Two reasons. First, they are marketing lamps, hype is good for this concept. Secondly they are being factual too. Those lamps will produce good plant growth, just maybe not the type of growth you'd like and the color of the lamp may be very attractive over a planted tank. Personally I'd never...