Betta

[gilraen]

I just bought the cutest little tank for a betta and a small ammonia test kit. Nowhere on the pack says how often to test the H2O for ammonia, plus I'm using RO H2O. How often then? Thanks in advance!

 

[lannen]

Water testing depends on the stage the tank is in. If your trying to cycle the tank, you probably want to test very few days (if not more often). Though if you have a small tank (less than 5g, or maybe 2.5g) you probably won't cycle the tank. If your not cycling than you probably only need to test often enough to measure the water quality. Test more often at first so you understand how how parameters should shift between water changes. Once you have that understanding, you only need to test in order to monitor, perhaps to decide when to do a water change (though regular water changes are better) or to check if there if a problem.

Really, once you understand how your tank will shift, you should probably only need to test if you think there may be a problem (especially with a small tank that is getting regular water changes). How small is your tank?

 

[fishyrican]

I usually test once a week, but that's just me. However, as lannen wrote, the level of ammonia depends on whether your tank has cycled. Once it has cycled, the nitrate level will be the important measurement if your bioload remains constant. Again, though, regular water changes will keep down the nitrate level.

One more thing, you may have to buy the nitrate test separately if you have a standard test kit.

 

[Kari]

Could someone post the ideal water params for a betta? I have a test that test's for Nitrite, Nitrate, ppm total hardness, ppm total alkalinity, and pH. I'd like to know what I SHOULD see those levels at!

 

[Blucat]

Ammonia: 0
Nitrite: 0
Nitrate: 0

 

[gilraen]

Thank all for your advice, my tank is only 1 gal., with a small filter and light. So far the betta looks great and its eating better than my kid.

 

[Fishyfanatic]

Ammonia: 0
Nitrite: 0
Nitrate: 0

Actually, Nitrate's should be present. This means that the tank has cycled. The Ammonia and Nitrites should be 0. Nitrates should be between 10 and 30. Even though it's such a small tank, it should still be cycled for the health and well-being of the fish.

 

[megladonsharky]

my one gallon is cycled with a male betta... I do 50% change weekly and another 50% change if he has been eating less or I see a snail explotion

 

[Kari]

I didn't even realize you could cycle a 1 gal. tank. I've been doing 100% changes about every other day to 3rd day My tap water, after sitting 24 to 48 hours, even treated with AquaSafe, has a pH level of 8.4, possibly higher. At least that's what my test kit seems to indicate. I've been told not to use chemicals to reduce the pH level, so what're my options? Keep them in it as is, or buy drinking or spring water?

 

[An t-iasg]

To cycle a 1 gallon tank, you would need a filter, for the good bacteria to live, and water movement through the filter. This movement may make too much water movement in 1 gallon. IME, it's hard to keep a tank under 3 gallons cycled: The larger the water volume, the more stable the parameters, and also the more water flow you can have through the filter. The 2.5 QT tank I have is difficult to keep cycled, I think, because I have the filter flow turned down the whole way so the betta is not in too much current.

I have the same trouble with hard water. I mix my water for changes in an empty 1 gallon bottled water jug. I use half tap water and half RO water, then I let that age for about 24 hours. I then add Novaqua and Amquel right before adding this new water to the tank.

 

[Kari]

What's 'RO' water? It said 'reverse osmosis' when I put the pointer over it, but I don't know what kind of water that is??

Also, what kind of filter do you have, An t-iasg, that let's you adjust the flow/current??

 

[An t-iasg]

Yes, RO means reverse osmosis. The water has been passed through a membrane and maybe carbon to remove the chlorine and a lot of the dissolved solids that make the water hard. There's a description of each stage of the RO process on the side of the machine that I get the water from. Actually, the RO machine that I use has an Indianapolis address on it!

This machine is about as big as a pop machine and it's in our grocery store. You can buy a jug there and fill it, or bring your own jug and fill it, usually for a reduced price. I think the price per gallon is 39 cents if you bring your own jug. This works out fine for my 5 gallon betta tanks. A lot of people with SW tanks have an RO system in their house.

Maybe some lfs in your area have the RO water available too. The hatchery that I go to has a big RO system and I got some from them when the grocery store machine was down for a few weeks.

The filter that I was talking about in my 2.5 gallon QT tank is a Whisper internal filter. I don't like this filter, actually. It just keeps the water moving a little bit in QT to keep the temperature stable or keep the medicated water circulating. It doesn't do much for the cycle. You can't really put any media in it, besides a bag of carbon, which you wouldn't use with medicine anyway.

The filters in my 5 gallon betta tanks are sponge filters. Here is a link to what I have: http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/Prod_Display.cfm?pcatid=3954&inm=1&N=2004+113425+113565

The same airpump runs both filters: (the smallest pump) http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=3676&N=2004+113590

and the airflow coming out of the pump is adjusted by a gang valve.
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/Prod_Display.cfm?pcatid=3700&inm=1&N=2004+113404+113565

I have a 3-way gang valve -- one port for each tank and one port that I open up to let off excess air. All 3 ports are adjustable. There is a picture and a description of the gang valve-airpump setup in my gallery. The gang valve that I linked to show you isn't the exact one that I have, though.

 

[Fishyfanatic]

To help naturally reduce pH, you could put a small piece of driftwood in the tank. Nothing large, just a small (or mini) piece.