jlk
Aquarium Advice Addict
Getting meds internally is always a best option for dealing with internal issues. Treating the water is the second best option & the only option if they are not eating. I hope your fish feel better soon! Keep us posted!!
This is where you need to separate the domestically raised fish from the wild caught ones. If you were to take a wild discus and put him in 8.4 water, if he didn't die from the shock he would lower the the PH to a more natural level. I've seen this multiple times in my Discus breeding room. My partner tried to adjust the fish to Florida's alkeline water but the fish made it acidic within 48 hours. It is possible that many generations later, the domestically raised Discus don't do this anymore. Keeping an aquarium at a neutral PH gives the fish that are being raised in each extreme the ability to coexist with little harm to each other.
Your experience may be coming from non wild specimens and I don't doubt that you have had success. I was addressing this one tank in this one situation.
You completely missed my point, and nowhere did I recommend keeping wild caught fish in water parameters that don't match the conditions that they are used to in the wild, which is what you are hinting with your reply. Using only one example and hoping you would see the benefit of a non-neutral pH, I said that: Domestically bred discus can thrive in a pH anywhere from 5.0-8.5. If I had a choice, I would keep the water for them acidic because many microorganisms do not grow around or below a pH of 5.5 and the low pH also helps to convert ammonia to ammonium ion (as a result of the free hydronium ions in solution) and this means that ammonia toxicity is of little worry in an acidic environment because ammonia will not be present in a harmful state. An acidic environment also makes it easier to rear fry for these same reasons.
I provided a basis for my reasoning that is backed by microbiology principles, and simple chemistry. Your statement about "a pH of 7.0 is recommended" has absolutely no basis on which it stands. Saying simply that "it allows fish from both extremes to adjust" is nonsense. Fish will adjust to pH changes over time. My proof...let's keep it consistent with one example...wild discus becoming domesticated. They have adjusted from a pH of 5.0 in many cases to as high as 9.0 from one hobbyist that I know that keeps them in liquid rock. This has been accomplished by years of domesticated breeding, though I've read about wild discus being bred in captivity in "wild conditions" and the fry being grown out in an alkaline pH with high levels of calcium and magnesium, so it needn't necessarily be done through many generations.
So are you suggesting that the fish lowered the pH of the tank? This is what it sounds like to me and most likely to others reading as well. Discus, and no other fish that I am aware of, are capable of altering the pH of their surroundings to ensure their survival. Please explain what you mean.
bs6749 said:Gboy66 - your fish doesn't look constipated to me as I don't see any signs of bloating or roundness of the belly. I actually think the opposite...your fish appears to be thin in my opinion.
jlk said:Yes, the strange poop, not eating & overall thinness are possible indicators of an internal parasite or an internal infection- we cant specifically ID which is the case the case here without a lab though. Keep us posted!
My mom just texted me.... GABRIELS POOPING!!!
Andy Sager said:Break out the TP!!!
It would be advisable, if possible, to get a sample and look at it to see if it is in fact a worm. You'll become a poopologist
jlk said:Get those meds!
jlk said:This poop indicates a possible internal parasite. I would inspect it closely to see if you can see any worms in it, too.
jlk said:Yep! If its clear/white, place it on something black so you can clearly see it. A magnifying glass would help too. The jungle meds should work fine! An epsom salt bath every day probably isnt necessary unless they stop pooping again. Use your judgement here!