CO2 Help

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With plenty of nutrients and CO2, growing healthy plants with great color and growth is still possible with less light. I find it's just easier overall. Growth will maybe not be as fast as some would like, but then you won't have to prune as often, and it's easier to attain an adequate CO2 level.
 
PerfectDepth said:
With plenty of nutrients and CO2, growing healthy plants with great color and growth is still possible with less light. I find it's just easier overall. Growth will maybe not be as fast as some would like, but then you won't have to prune as often, and it's easier to attain an adequate CO2 level.
Click to expand...


Definitely.

Thanks guys! I'm going to switch to EI, just adjusted as a liquid format daily.

Tom Barr gave me some advice about that.

I'll shorten my photoperiod to 6 hours per day for now.

How's 3 hours on, 4 off, 3 on? And when should I run the co2?

Thanks so much everyone!

By the way, aquachem, if it sounds like its not open, how would I go about solving that? :lol: I'm bad with this stuff.
 
As in, if liquid dosing EI isn't an option? Dry dose. That's what I do. Liquid dosing is an unnecessary complication in my opinion if your system is not automated.


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LiquidGardener said:
Your co2 should kick on early enough to get the tank to at least 20ppm before lights go on. Which is also when the fertilizers get added.

In lieu of a drop checker. You can use the Kh and Ph tests and this chart.

http://www.aquariumadvice.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/ph-kh.jpg.

Taken from this sticky.

http://www.aquariumadvice.com/beginners-guide-to-co2-injection-in-the-planted-tank/

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Click to expand...


That chart is useless unless you are able to test pH that accurately. You would need a pH pen or pH controller. I dont think an api liquid pH test could ever give you enough accuracy


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Sk3lly said:
That chart is useless unless you are able to test pH that accurately. You would need a pH pen or pH controller. I dont think an api liquid pH test could ever give you enough accuracy


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Click to expand...

Were talking to some one who doesn't want a drop checker;) no offense fish, just saying the likelihood of multiple daily liquid tests seems to be a longshot. Just drop the $250 and get a ph controller..heh...

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Brookster123 said:
Were talking to some one who doesn't want a drop checker;) no offense fish, just saying the likelihood of multiple daily liquid tests seems to be a longshot. Just drop the $250 and get a ph controller..heh...

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Click to expand...


Nope.

I just don't have the 4 kh fluid for it. It's not very precise without it.

I'm going to make the fluid this weekend though. Or try at least.
 
Sk3lly said:
That chart is useless unless you are able to test pH that accurately. You would need a pH pen or pH controller. I dont think an api liquid pH test could ever give you enough accuracy


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Click to expand...


I agree, I don't think I could test pH OR hardness that accurately.
 
LiquidGardener said:
Your co2 should kick on early enough to get the tank to at least 20ppm before lights go on. Which is also when the fertilizers get added.

In lieu of a drop checker. You can use the Kh and Ph tests and this chart.

http://www.aquariumadvice.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/ph-kh.jpg.

Taken from this sticky.

http://www.aquariumadvice.com/beginners-guide-to-co2-injection-in-the-planted-tank/

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Click to expand...


I pretty much get that, I meant when does it ACTUALLY go on? In hours prior to lights? I've always heard 3 hours, which is what I'm doing now.
 
aqua_chem said:
As in, if liquid dosing EI isn't an option? Dry dose. That's what I do. Liquid dosing is an unnecessary complication in my opinion if your system is not automated.


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Click to expand...


No. I want to liquid dose it.

I've converted it from what he recommended into a daily liquid dose, one for micro and one for macro.

It's in a document some where I just need to find it.
 
Sk3lly said:
Lighting is the easiest variable to control, yet is so often mismanaged
Click to expand...

I would probably disagree with that. Lighting is probably the most difficult variable to control simply because it is, for the most part, impossible to alter or measure. Both ferts and CO2 can be quantified with some degree of accuracy, and it's quite easy to increase/decrease ferts or CO2, assuming you're actually adding it. With the notable exception of LEDs with dimmers, it's nearly impossible decrease what you already have. Until fairly recently, PAR values weren't available/reliable, so it was often difficult to predict as well.
 
aqua_chem said:
I would probably disagree with that. Lighting is probably the most difficult variable to control simply because it is, for the most part, impossible to alter or measure. Both ferts and CO2 can be quantified with some degree of accuracy, and it's quite easy to increase/decrease ferts or CO2, assuming you're actually adding it. With the notable exception of LEDs with dimmers, it's nearly impossible decrease what you already have. Until fairly recently, PAR values weren't available/reliable, so it was often difficult to predict as well.
Click to expand...


Can always raise the height of lights?


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Fish,

Fluval makes ready made drop checker solution if your not up to making your own.

Available as Fluval CO2 Indicator Solution on amazon. So are glass drop checkers that look just like ones on the official ADA website.

Combined is under 10$ less shipping.

A bit more wallet friendly than the 250$ pH controller.

And having the CO2 kick on 2-3 hours before the lights come on should be early enough to get you in that green range


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Last edited by a moderator:
LiquidGardener said:
Fish,

Fluval makes ready made drop checker solution if your not up to making your own.

Available as Fluval CO2 Indicator Solution on amazon. So are glass drop checkers that look just like ones on the official ADA website.

Combined is under 10$ less shipping.

A bit more wallet friendly than the 250$ pH controller.

And having the CO2 kick on 2-3 hours before the lights come on should be early enough to get you in that green range


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Click to expand...


Yep. I have a drop checker but I'll look at that 4dkh solution.

Also, I don't know how much of the pH solution to use.

Do you guys know the ratio of pH reagent to water? Otherwise it's fairly useless.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
3-4 drops depending in how dark you want the colors, i use 4.

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Brookster123 said:
3-4 drops depending in how dark you want the colors, i use 4.

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Click to expand...


Ok. I just thought that since the volume of the water varies and stuff...

Does it not make a huge difference how much you add? I thought more pH reagent = yellower color or something.
 
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