So are you saying to do water change every 2 to 3 days, and to do 25% water change??
I just wanted to make sure I understood what you were saying. I hope API quick start is ok to use. Api usually has good products.
Hope this is more clear.
This info applies if your water's Ph is higher than 7.0. **
If you are using a bacteria source, you can reduce your water change schedule to every 2-3 days ONLY IF you are also using a product like Seachem's PRIME or SAFE or other products to detoxify the ammonia and nitrites. (Each dose of these 2 products are good for 2 days. ) IF your ammonia level is under 1 ppm, you can do smaller amounts of water per change. Anything close to 1 ppm and above you should do a larger water change.
When it comes to Nitrites, it's important to use a detoxifier product as Nitrites will kill fish faster than ammonia. You need to see a rise in nitrites so that the bacteria that converts it to nitrates can grow but your water change amount changes the higher the level gets. You'll need to take action at a level above .5 ppm. The actual level that is toxic to the fish is different for different fish so you need to use strong hardy fish for cycling the tank. What's nice about Seachem's PRIME is that it it doesn't remove the nitrites but makes them non toxic to the fish while allowing for the nitrifying bacteria to consume them.
As for what bacteria source to use if not using something like used filter media or sponge filter squeezings, I favor Fritzyme #7 or FritzZyme TurboStart 700. I started using the #7 when it first came out and found it to be very effective. The turbostart is new to me but I hear great things about it.
** In regards to if your water's Ph is below 7.0: Toxic ammonia is naturally converted to less toxic (almost non toxic) ammonium in water with a Ph value under 7.0. This means that your fish are not going to suffer from ammonia issues so no need to use the detoxifier products. You will need to keep your Ph between 6.5 and 6.9 in order to keep your fish safe. If you go below the 6.5, you reduce the growth of the nitrifying bacteria so your tank never cycles. If you go above 7.0, the ammonium become toxic ammonia.
Temperature will also have an effect on the cycling. 80-83 degrees will help the bacteria form and reproduce faster. Temps closer to 70 degrees greatly reduces the speed in which the bacteria grow. The higher temps will require you to have good aeration in the tank for the fish as higher temps reduces oxygen levels in the water.
What you need to understand is that there are no "standards" that applies to everything when it comes to cycling an aquarium. What you do or have to do all depends on what your readings are.
Hope this helps.