Do I need root tabs with these plants

[Potluck]

Here are the plants I ordered so I could just get them all in one shot rather than multiple people in the buy and sell section and wasn't to expensive, the bunch plants (money wart,ludwigia) come with 6-10 stems, do I need the lead weights for them? And do I need to get more root tabs? I was thinking of making my own osmocote tabs but I have a few flourish tabs left, my water colum ferts is thrive all in one.

I can't post my receipt picture but I got a bundle of ludwigia broadleaf, a bundle of money wart, 1 cryptocoryne parva and 1 cryptocoryne Wendtii red

Also got 2 HO pods for my light to push the light deeper

Is the parva an easy plant like the Wendtii?

This is what I will start with and see how they grow before investing more into parva to make a light ground cover with I got Java moss and ferns coming in from my lfs

 

[ZxC]

Here are the plants I ordered so I could just get them all in one shot rather than multiple people in the buy and sell section and wasn't to expensive, the bunch plants (money wart,ludwigia) come with 6-10 stems, do I need the lead weights for them? And do I need to get more root tabs? I was thinking of making my own osmocote tabs but I have a few flourish tabs left, my water colum ferts is thrive all in one.

I can't post my receipt picture but I got a bundle of ludwigia broadleaf, a bundle of money wart, 1 cryptocoryne parva and 1 cryptocoryne Wendtii red

Also got 2 HO pods for my light to push the light deeper

Is the parva an easy plant like the Wendtii?

This is what I will start with and see how they grow before investing more into parva to make a light ground cover with I got Java moss and ferns coming in from my lfs

Do not use lead to weigh them down, just plant as usual. Some may float up, just keep planting and eventually they will take hold.

I always have luck using substrate ferts. No matter if it's flourish tabs, osmocote tabs, custum DIY tabs I make from agricultural fertilizer or a nutrient rich substrate.

Water column ferts will work well also, so if add the root tabs plus the column dosing you will have all your bases covered. Maybe consider a carbon source? CO2 or excel/metricide.

Parva is "easy" it just grow sosososo slow, even under high light/CO2/ferts mine still grow very very slow.

 

[Potluck]

Do not use lead to weigh them down, just plant as usual. Some may float up, just keep planting and eventually they will take hold.

I always have luck using substrate ferts. No matter if it's flourish tabs, osmocote tabs, custum DIY tabs I make from agricultural fertilizer or a nutrient rich substrate.

Water column ferts will work well also, so if add the root tabs plus the column dosing you will have all your bases covered. Maybe consider a carbon source? CO2 or excel/metricide.

Parva is "easy" it just grow sosososo slow, even under high light/CO2/ferts mine still grow very very slow.

I forgot to Mention I dose excel 2x weekly at 5 ml per dose, I don't have an ultra bright light it's an elive 48"with 26 pods will have 28 with the 2 HO whites I ordered, I still have to get the plants to see how I'm going to arrange them then I can put the tabs in, I was doing direct injection into my substrate with my flourish but decided to switch to thrive all in one as flourish just wasn't cutting it, I will go dry ferts once I get my bigger tank and better light.

 

[fishenthusiast]

I forgot to Mention I dose excel 2x weekly at 5 ml per dose, I don't have an ultra bright light it's an elive 48"with 26 pods will have 28 with the 2 HO whites I ordered, I still have to get the plants to see how I'm going to arrange them then I can put the tabs in, I was doing direct injection into my substrate with my flourish but decided to switch to thrive all in one as flourish just wasn't cutting it, I will go dry ferts once I get my bigger tank and better light.

Those stem plants will appreciate the liquid ferts. When I had stem plants, root tabs did benefit, but fine tuning liquid ferts ended up being more helpful since stem plants primarily get their nutrients from the water column. As mentioned previously, Crypt parva isn’t hard to care for, but it grows very slowly. It requires a lot of patience!

 

[Potluck]

I have the patience I'm currently nursing an amazing sword back from one leaf it's now got a dozen, it's still very small about 4" but when I started it like Mentioned it had one leaf and was about 1/2 inches tall, my buddy was like whyyyy don't you just get a new one I saud why don't I just bring this one back or try so I know how to do it lol. I have been watching videos and reading on crypts and moneywart and ludwigia since yesterday learning as much as I can about them, I just hope the 2 ho pods i got don't cause bba.

 

[ZxC]

I have the patience I'm currently nursing an amazing sword back from one leaf it's now got a dozen, it's still very small about 4" but when I started it like Mentioned it had one leaf and was about 1/2 inches tall, my buddy was like whyyyy don't you just get a new one I saud why don't I just bring this one back or try so I know how to do it lol. I have been watching videos and reading on crypts and moneywart and ludwigia since yesterday learning as much as I can about them, I just hope the 2 ho pods i got don't cause bba.

To avoid initial algae, I always start with as many plants (preferable fast growing plants) that my wallet can afford. This is a good precautionary step in our ever so long battle against algae.

 

[Potluck]

To avoid initial algae, I always start with as many plants (preferable fast growing plants) that my wallet can afford. This is a good precautionary step in our ever so long battle against algae.

I'm disabled so I don't have a wallet lol kidding but I don't have much of one for sure that's why I got bunched plants as per (ludwigia /moneywart) they come with 6-10 stems per bunch at 6-8" tall, the crypts they said I might be able to get 3-4 plants per so I'm hoping.

 

[Potluck]

The only bad thing is I only have 28 watts of led light I don't know if watts is still the rule if thumb to go by, but if not I will have to get a second light to go with it or one good one like a finnex 24/7
I'm at about 16-20 par from what elive saud but I need to get a meter to see where I'm at and what color spectrum

 

[flitabout]

Well if your wendtii are like mine they will grow and spread like mad. Sadly I was an idiot and I bought brown and they not very pretty they are getting better since I added new tabs and started dosing again but they are still just ugly brown...

 

[ZxC]

Well if your wendtii are like mine they will grow and spread like mad. Sadly I was an idiot and I bought brown and they not very pretty they are getting better since I added new tabs and started dosing again but they are still just ugly brown...

Try playing with the nutrients and build your own tabs.

My DIY tabs have a nutrient analysis as follows:
5.7N-23.0P-19.8K-7.7S-0.1B-0.2Zn-2.6Mg and my wendtii brown have a super cool, almost maroon colour to them.

 

[Potluck]

Well if your wendtii are like mine they will grow and spread like mad. Sadly I was an idiot and I bought brown and they not very pretty they are getting better since I added new tabs and started dosing again but they are still just ugly brown...

I got the Wendtii red which many people say they are just green but In the pics I've seen they are red, they aren't expensive either I mean you can get a pot (grown out of water) and get about 6 plants per pot for $3.49 or you can get truely submerged grown and*get I guess it depends but definitely more than one for $5.49 from the site I bought mine from.

 

[Potluck]

Try playing with the nutrients and build your own tabs.

My DIY tabs have a nutrient analysis as follows:
5.7N-23.0P-19.8K-7.7S-0.1B-0.2Zn-2.6Mg and my wendtii brown have a super cool, almost maroon colour to them.

Do you make your tabs out of dry ferts?

 

[ZxC]

Do you make your tabs out of dry ferts?

I work for an agricultural supply company, so I have access to hundreds of fertilizers. Eventually I want to begin experimenting with nutrients in side by side tanks, but that will have to wait for the time being.

To make these root tabs, my blend is a 25% equal split of the following fertilizers (in N-P-K format %'s):

11-52-0
0-0-58-0.5B
12-40-0-10S-1Zn
0-0-21.5-21S-10.5Mg

 

[Potluck]

I work for an agricultural supply company, so I have access to hundreds of fertilizers. Eventually I want to begin experimenting with nutrients in side by side tanks, but that will have to wait for the time being.

To make these root tabs, my blend is a 25% equal split of the following fertilizers (in N-P-K format %'s):

11-52-0
0-0-58-0.5B
12-40-0-10S-1Zn
0-0-21.5-21S-10.5Mg

Now I have a headache lol, I have no idea what that means I'm still learning about all the different nutrients that are in ferts, I was just going to make osmocote tabs but I think I will get tabs from nilcog which has the following.

Total Nitrogen(N)...................2.13%
2.13% Water Soluble Nitrogen(N)
Available Phosphate(P2O5).......0.78%
Soluble Potash(K2O)..................6.61%
Magnesium(Mg)...........................0.37%
0.37% Water Soluble Magnesium(Mg)
Sulfur(S).......................................0.30%
0.30% Combined Sulfur(S)
Boron(B)......................................0.01%
Cobalt(Co)...................................0.0006%
Copper(Cu)..................................0.0001%
0.0001% Water Soluble Copper(Cu)
Iron(Fe)........................................1.5%
1.5% Water Soluble Iron(Fe)
Manganese(Mn)..........................0.157%
0.157% Water Soluble Manganese(Mn)
Molybdenum(Mo)........................0.00027%
Zinc(Zn).......................................0.0049%
0.0049 Water Soluble Zinc(Zn)

Nickel(Ni).....................................0.00035%

Potassium Nitrate, Potassium Phosphate, Potassium Sulfate, Magnesium Sulfate, Boric acid, Iron DTPA, Iron EDTA, Manganese Sulfate, Zinc Sulfate, Cobalt Sulfate,*Sodium molybdate, Nickel Chloride, Iron Rich Clay, Mineralized Top Soil.

 

[ZxC]

Now I have a headache lol, I have no idea what that means I'm still learning about all the different nutrients that are in ferts, I was just going to make osmocote tabs but I think I will get tabs from nilcog which has the following.

Total Nitrogen(N)...................2.13%
2.13% Water Soluble Nitrogen(N)
Available Phosphate(P2O5).......0.78%
Soluble Potash(K2O)..................6.61%
Magnesium(Mg)...........................0.37%
0.37% Water Soluble Magnesium(Mg)
Sulfur(S).......................................0.30%
0.30% Combined Sulfur(S)
Boron(B)......................................0.01%
Cobalt(Co)...................................0.0006%
Copper(Cu)..................................0.0001%
0.0001% Water Soluble Copper(Cu)
Iron(Fe)........................................1.5%
1.5% Water Soluble Iron(Fe)
Manganese(Mn)..........................0.157%
0.157% Water Soluble Manganese(Mn)
Molybdenum(Mo)........................0.00027%
Zinc(Zn).......................................0.0049%
0.0049 Water Soluble Zinc(Zn)

Nickel(Ni).....................................0.00035%

Potassium Nitrate, Potassium Phosphate, Potassium Sulfate, Magnesium Sulfate, Boric acid, Iron DTPA, Iron EDTA, Manganese Sulfate, Zinc Sulfate, Cobalt Sulfate,*Sodium molybdate, Nickel Chloride, Iron Rich Clay, Mineralized Top Soil.

Soooo,

N - available total nitrogen
P - available total phosphorous
K - available total potassium

The number correlates to total available nutrient per actual weight (P is expressed as available P2O5, and K as K2O).

Lets use mono ammonium phosphate "MAP" as an example, which has the nutrient analysis of: 11-52-0. meaning 11% by weight N, 52% by weight P, and 0% by weight K.

1 lb of MAP x 11% = 0.11 lbs actual nitrogen
1 lb of MAP x 52% = 0.52 lbs actual phosphorous
1 lb of MAP x 0% = 0 lbs actual potassium


so if you do the math for the 4 fertilizers I use, you end up with with 5.7-23.0-19.8 and then additionally these micros: 7.7S-0.1B-0.2Zn-2.6Mg.

which is expressed as:

5.7-23.0-19.8-7.7S-0.1B-0.2Zn-2.6Mg

Remember, fertilizer analysis always follows the N-P-K order, and then the micro's are labeled afterwards.

Given what the fertilizer is made out of, there is also some Cl, but not enough to be significant.

 

[ZxC]

Osmocote plus has the N-P-K of 15-9-12, plus additional the micros you labeled in your last post, nothing wrong with those numbers, I just can't be bothered to track down and add them all to my mix, most of those micros I would think can be obtained through a CMS+B mix, and from fish food/tap water.

 

[Potluck]

I need advise ZxC I just got my thrive and tools today, here's my issue
on the bottle it says 1 pump per 10 gallons, at 1 pump for 10 gallons adds 7ppm no3 p04, 5ppm K, and 0.25ppm Fe, my no3 is already 15-20 so if I did 5 pumps it would be approx 50?(or am I misunderstanding) For some reason on my tank I can't get the nitrates lower than 15-20 even doing 2x40% pwc's weekly, so I'm trying to not increase my nitrates like crazy, I know once I get my other plants in my tank the nitrates will go down dramatically, any help will be greatly appreciated.
How many pumps would you go with?

 

[ZxC]

Does the bottle have a minimum and maximum dosage? I have been using some “all in one” fertilizer with a minimum and maximum dosing guideline. I start at the lowest, and move up according to my plant mass in the tank.


If there is no minimum or maximum, dose according to the directions. There is a difference in NO3 achieved from the biological nitrogen cycle (the 15-20ppm you already have) and the 35ppm of pure NO3 you are going to dose.

I have tanks with very high nitrates, all from the nitrogen cycle, wow those tanks are a mess, I’m embarrassed to call them mine. The issue with achieving NO3 this way, is that it is the decomposing organic matter that is contributing largely to the nitrogen pool, meaning the dissolved organics are high, not something we call “clean” water.

Dosing pure NO3 is much better because we aren’t adding all these dissolved organic compounds, and we aren’t relying on biological processes decomposing organics to achieve available N.

I would try and remove as much mulm as possible, clean filters out well, continue water changes more frequently until you get them under control, the. Dosing additional 35ppm of NO3 is of lesser concern.

Have you tested your tap water for NO3?

 

[Potluck]

Does the bottle have a minimum and maximum dosage? I have been using some “all in one” fertilizer with a minimum and maximum dosing guideline. I start at the lowest, and move up according to my plant mass in the tank.


If there is no minimum or maximum, dose according to the directions. There is a difference in NO3 achieved from the biological nitrogen cycle (the 15-20ppm you already have) and the 35ppm of pure NO3 you are going to dose.

I have tanks with very high nitrates, all from the nitrogen cycle, wow those tanks are a mess, I’m embarrassed to call them mine. The issue with achieving NO3 this way, is that it is the decomposing organic matter that is contributing largely to the nitrogen pool, meaning the dissolved organics are high, not something we call “clean” water.

Dosing pure NO3 is much better because we aren’t adding all these dissolved organic compounds, and we aren’t relying on biological processes decomposing organics to achieve available N.

I would try and remove as much mulm as possible, clean filters out well, continue water changes more frequently until you get them under control, the. Dosing additional 35ppm of NO3 is of lesser concern.

Have you tested your tap water for NO3?

I clean everything very thorough every week(gravel Texas holey Rock that has many holes for stuff to hide in) and do 30% - 35% weekly cause my fish did not do well when I did 2 x 40%, I've always had an issue with this tank since I got it with nitrates, they went down from 80 to 15-20 when I changed out substrate., filters I alternate every 2 weeks as I have 2 but there's never much in the sponges when I clean them, it's very odd.


As for the ferts it doesn't say 5 pumps it simply says 1 pump per 10 gallons, 1 pump = 2ml and to dose 1-2x weekly for low light, 3x for high light(i have no idea what I have, it's an elive 48" with 28 pods(was 26) but just added 2 HO whites that are 60°angle so I'm still figuring out where to place them online lol.
Here's the whole bottle everything that's in it
All on one https://imgur.com/a/I85zi

 

[ZxC]

I clean everything very thorough every week(gravel Texas holey Rock that has many holes for stuff to hide in) and do 30% - 35% weekly cause my fish did not do well when I did 2 x 40%, I've always had an issue with this tank since I got it with nitrates, they went down from 80 to 15-20 when I changed out substrate., filters I alternate every 2 weeks as I have 2 but there's never much in the sponges when I clean them, it's very odd.


As for the ferts it doesn't say 5 pumps it simply says 1 pump per 10 gallons, 1 pump = 2ml and to dose 1-2x weekly for low light, 3x for high light(i have no idea what I have, it's an elive 48" with 28 pods(was 26) but just added 2 HO whites that are 60°angle so I'm still figuring out where to place them online lol.

The best advice I feel comfortable offering, is to start low and work your way higher to meet plant needs. If growth is slow, add enough until you start seeing algae, then back it off a little. As plant mass increases, slowly start increasing dosages, until you see algae, then back off again etc etc.