FresH2O's 20g planted rescape

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nicely manicured
Thanks!
After I trim it just right, I wish things just stay the same (or stay put). I am constantly checking the undergrowth for shoots of broadleaf chain sword; every 1-2 weeks I am removing a few daughter plants that if left unchecked, will reach the front of the tank.
All is not as pretty as it appears. While there is significant improvement, the new growth on the AR regular and AR mini just don't seem as smooth and straight as they should be. I do not recall having this problem when only dosing Seachem Flourish Comprehensive and API Leaf Zone. Supposedly stunted new growth may be a result of a calcium deficiency. I believe that Ca+ is supplied in the PPS-Pro micro mix (please correct me if I am wrong on this). I have doubled the micros to deal with this. I am ordering Microbe Lift 2-Pound Pond Calicium Montmorillonite Clay to help with the deteriorating MTS shells. Perhaps it will add calcium and address the plant needs.
I think one of my longfin blue danios has gone to aquarium heaven today. There are too many places to hide a fish body in the undergrowth. It had been sick/emaciated for a while and I figured it was a matter of time. It was one of the 6 danios I bought in Oct 2012 (which was the last time I bought any fish come to think of it). I got the gold tetras in 2007 or 2009. Those hardy fish even spent a summer outdoors and I brought them in October when the temps started dropping into the 50s. I would get more fish but only if I get my 6.6g QT up and running. It is currently housing all of my plant extras. There is an auction at a local aquarium society this weekend and I will see what I need to do clear that tank. Probably has 12-15 broadleaf chain swords, 25-30 dwarf sag, 8-10 AR regular, and a few crypt wendtii.
 
Shipments arrived this week!
What could it be?
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Here you go! 24 oz tank, AquaTek regulator, paintball adaptor, bubble counter/check valve, montmorillonite clay:
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The CO2 tubing did not arrive. Waited an extra 24 hours...will need to contact UPS to see where it is at. In the mean time, ran to the hardware store to get 1/4" polyethylene tubing (25' $3), and a 3" pipe bracket. I am planning on setting the tank and regulator next the the aquarium stand but want to make sure that it does not get knocked over. Will post a pic of the setup this weekend as I step into the dark side. Mha-ha-ha-ha!
The clay is to supply the snails with extra calcium (I think the plants will enjoy some as well).
Regarding the CO2 permeability of various materials, here is a TPT link that discusses it: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=11471 sounds like the polyethylene should be fine.
 
Gotta love shipments! I have a few coming today myself :) Anyways, I use one of those utensil caddy holders for keeping my paintball steady:

 
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Gotta love shipments! I have a few coming today myself :) Anyways, I use one of those utensil caddy holders for keeping my paintball steady:



That looks classy. I showed my wife what I was going to setup and she was so l taken back at its ghetto-ness that she suggested I use the small ceramic umbrella caddy in our foyer. It's a bit wide for the tank so I placed a small towel around to make it snug. Not quite pottery barn but it will do.
Unless I remove the shelf in my stand, the setup won't fit in there. I need the shelf. An alternative is to use a scroll saw and cut out part of the shelf to allow the tank and regulator to fit. That will have to wait. Right now it will sit next to the stand because I want to get bad boy hooked up and running.
 
I should check my mailbox more often. I was about to followup with UPS about the missing CO2 tubing and it shows up in the mailbox. Probably yesterday or maybe the day before. Mailman was prolly smh.
Anyhow, the tubing is here. I am going to see how rigid this material is (rather, how easy is it to work with). And below that is the CO2 tank holder (for now).
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New CO2 setup. AquaTek Premium + Valken 24 oz Paintball tank.
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Initially I set it up with the regulator on the right side of the tank and the bubble counter on the left side. Not seeing the bubble counter while adjusting the flow makes it challenging. I then setup my ghetto bracket, hammered in a tiny nail to mount the bubble counter and then fired up again. What's a good working pressure? I am using a Fluval ceramic diffuser. Right now it is about 25 psi with slightly less than 1 bps. The diffuser is producing a fine mist and most of that is getting suck in by one of the AC 50s that I am using for mechanical filtration only. Cleaned and refilled the drop checker.
Of course removing the DIY setup created a bunch of new space in the cabinet. Time to give it a good cleaning and reorganization of the powers trips and timers.
 
The only "gotcha" is that the nearby bifold closet door will hit one of the regulator gauges if fully opened. I need to drain the tank down to a few inches and slide it to the right maybe 2". Massive water change to boot.
 
The only "gotcha" is that the nearby bifold closet door will hit one of the regulator gauges if fully opened. I need to drain the tank down to a few inches and slide it to the right maybe 2". Massive water change to boot.
seems like a nice Sunday project!
 
Fresh did i read somewhere that you found a way to make your HOB silent where the water falls into the tank?
If id was you, id love to see a photo of this please
 
Update: Last weekend I drained most of the tank and moved it a few inches to make room for the CO2 setup. Pressurized CO2 has been running for about a week on a timer and I am starting to see positive results despite the before and after star repens pic:
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The pic on the left was taken about 3-4 weeks ago and the one on the right was taken about a week later. Lots of leaf drop, holes, etc. Curled, stunted AR mini leaves. What the pic does not show is the unaffected star repens growth and regrowth on otherwise leafless stems. As for the AR mini, I am now seeing new straight leaves forming even amongst the curled leaves. I have kept the fert regimen the same (3x macros; no nitrates; 2x micros) because I like to limit variables. The only other thing I've added was a ~1/2 tsp of calcium montmorillonite clay during water changes for the decayed MTS shell tips.
All in all, glad I went to the dark side and am pleased watching the plants pearl during the phot period.
 
Time for a rescape of my rescape. Well, almost. I think the broadleaf chain swords along the back have to go. Trimming weekly runners is not so bad. However, with crowding the plants are getting too tall for the tank and the older leaves are becoming a BBA magnet. I might keep 1 or 2 just in case.
The AR mini can use some TLC. I plan to uproot all of them, trim off the algae covered leaves and replant on the growing tips.
Same goes for the regular AR. The growing tips I removed a few months ago are still looking pretty good in an unheated CFL lit tank. The existing stems (after several trims) are not looking too good.
 
Oops, forgot to post a pic
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I think with some stem plants after trimming and retrimming the base stems start to look "tired".
The plastic tank in the front is for one of the gold tetras. Emaciated for weeks I thought I was going to lose it (had them since 2007 or 2009). Doing better and eating will in the breeder.
 
Tank still looking good.. nice lush growth from what it appears in the FTS. I wonder why your S. Repens declined like that? Are they growing back? Hard to tell unless it's another overhead shot.
 
Looks can be deceiving. I will take another set of top view shots tonight. The S. repens is looking better; the leaf drop and holes/decay stopped a couple of weeks ago. There is improved new growth on the AR mini as opposed to curly leaves. On the older leaves of the chain sword, S. repens, and AR mini is BBA or something that resembles it. I did a treatment of H2O2. I decided it would be better to remove the plants, trim off the old growth and replant a select few specimens. As for the star repens, I will mow it down and replant the healthy tips; removing the top growth appears to promote the side shoots and undergrowth. The decline in health started at least a week or two before I started the pressurized CO2. The DIY CO2 was inconsistent at the time. I am still dosing 3x macros, no nitrates, and 2x micros. I was perusing a few Tom Barr threads on TPT and from I can gather, it sounds like CO2 was the limiting factor. About a week ago I increased the bps from 1 to 1-2. The DC turns from bluish green to lime green a few hours after the CO2 starts (which is an hour or so before the lights come on and it goes off about an hour before lights out).
 
Cool sounds like you have a handle on things. I'm starting to get a bit of this fine green fuzz algae in my 60P. It's all in the mini fiss and growing on the rotala macrandra leaves closes to the top. I'm also starting to see BGA in my 60F shallow tank... darn algae and tank ailments! Never ends! Lol
 
Cool sounds like you have a handle on things. I'm starting to get a bit of this fine green fuzz algae in my 60P. It's all in the mini fiss and growing on the rotala macrandra leaves closes to the top. I'm also starting to see BGA in my 60F shallow tank... darn algae and tank ailments! Never ends! Lol
me too man.. Having beat the crap out of bba a few months ago it's rather disheartening getting thus green stuff.. Although not all that unsightly and the shrimp seem to like mowing on it..
 
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