Help me with these test results!

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hollyml

Aquarium Advice Newbie
Joined
Aug 20, 2011
Messages
9
Noob here, bought a tank "kit" at the big box chain store for my daughter's 7th birthday and made some of the usual mistakes about not understanding the cycling process before jumping in. (Please be gentle!) As a kid, I had guppies in a very small tank, and then a somewhat larger community tank (guppies and tetras mostly) and I remembered it as being very low maintenance -- I don't think we ever did any water chemistry tests at all! I'm learning that they just don't make guppies the way they used to! ;) So now, we are still trying to keep this simple but want to get our fish-in cycle done right, and I am confused by some of the test results we are getting.

Setup and history here -- sorry about the novel but I hope not to leave out anything important:

10G tank (I know, I know, but larger not practical now) with the Top Fin filter and lighted hood that came in the "kit". Gravel and some plastic plants. Conditioned water in and filtered for several days before we put in three guppies from the big chain store. We do not have a heater, but temp has been very stable at 74-76 F. We did not have a test kit when we started.

Guppy death #1 on day three or four (after putting the fish in). Probably ammonia poisoning, but we have no idea actually because no tests.

That afternoon we visited a better local fish store, a small specialist place. They sold us a bottle of the TetraSafe bacteria booster stuff, a clump of floating "guppy grass" (we weren't planning to deal with live planting but this was supposed to be maintenance-free), a pH test kit and some "acid buffer" because (they say) our local tap water is very high pH which means the ammonia is even more toxic. They also recommended an ammonia test kit but we passed because the price was ridiculous.

We did have the free test strip done at the chain store, were told "everything fine" for being less than a week out, but no actual numbers. :facepalm:

I did a lot of reading about cycling and everything seemed well enough for the next week and a half. We dumped in the bacteria stuff and the plant, acquired a gravel vac and did PWCs every 2-3 days, some with the acid buffer. The pH fluctuated a bit with the changes, lowest test result was about 6.6 and the highest 7.2. We also bought an "ammonia alert" sensor that hangs in the tank; it has always shown 0 when the hood light is on, but tinges into the .05 range when the hood light is off. :confused:

The "guppy grass" has been gradually turning brown, breaking into smaller pieces and sinking. This does not seem good. But we haven't had a chance to call or visit the store where we got it to ask about that. Oh, btw, we seem to have a tiny snail in the tank which I assume hitched in on the guppy grass.

Chain store strip results on day 10:
Ammonia .5 (or that's what the store employee wrote down, though I thought it was lower when I looked at the strip), nitrite 0, nitrate 2, pH 6.8, alkalinity 30, hardness 80, chlorine/chloramine 0.

Guppy death #2 at two weeks. He may have had fin rot; my daughter said his fin seemed "fuzzy" the last day, and the other guppy had been nipping at him quite a bit.

We didn't do anything about the fin rot -- the poor fish was already dead, after all, and it seemed silly to attempt to mess with the tank water when we weren't sure that was the problem. But we did (finally!) acquire the API master test kit.

Test results since then:

Day 1 chain store test strip (before PWC):
Ammonia .5, nitrite 0, nitrate 0, pH 6.6, alkalinity 75, hardness 25, chlorine/chloramine 0. Pet store employee sold my husband a bottle of API "proper pH 7.0 buffer and conditioner" but we have not used it.

Day 1 API tests (after 20% PWC):
Ammonia less than .25, nitrite 0, nitrate 5, pH read 7.6 with API test but 6.8 with Nutrafin. :confused: (We did both just out of curiosity.)

Day 2 (no PWC):
Ammonia less than .25, nitrite 0, nitrate between 5 and 10, pH 6.6 with API but 6.8 with Nutrafin.

Day 3 (before PWC):
Ammonia .5, nitrite 0, nitrate 5, pH 7.4 with API but 6.8 with Nutrafin.

Day 3 (after 40% PWC):
Ammonia .25, pH 6.8 with both tests.

I decided to do an ammonia test on our tap water too, after adding the water conditioner. Got a .25 result. :huh:

What the devil is going on with those pH results? Obviously I'd rather believe the Nutrafin :cool: but I know the API kit is supposed to be The One. Should we use the pH buffer stuff or return it? Am I right that I shouldn't even be seeing nitrates yet, given that the ammonia is consistently >0 and nitrites consistently 0? We could have just missed the nitrites in the first week, I guess, and the ammonia is in our tap water? What do we do about that?

Remaining guppy :fish1:seems okay. But then, so did the others until within a day of expiring. And I don't know if it's good for him to be in there all by his lonesome.

My daughter is of course anxious to add more pretty fish! :) But I have now read and heard so much conflicting info and advice on the bottled bacteria stuff, the pH products, and the appropriate length of time to wait before adding fish, that I am not sure what to do.

So, if this were your second-grader's tank, what would you do?

TIA!
 
Return the fish and do a fish-less cycle is what I would do. Not demanding you but that's what I would do. And I wouldn't use ANY ph boosters or bacteria in a bottle. If you return the fish then just go get PURE ammonia. And if you want to boost your ph add crushed coral or a sea shell or two. If you can't return the fish then get the water conditioner called Prime. It makes ammonia from your tap into a none toxic form. And do water changes everyday.
 
You actually got some good advice from the second lfs you visited. The ammonia does indeed become more toxic in high pH, however unless it is in extreme ranges I would recommend against any products that alter it. Using pH adjusting products will cause stress on your fish as the level fluctuates during all of the water changes you'll be doing in your near future.

Purchasing a quality liquid test kit like an API Master Kit is vital for this process. They're a bit pricy, but they're very accurate and last a LONG time. They'll end up being cheaper than the strips in the long run...and the strips are unreliable to say the least. You need to have the ability to test the water yourself every day and have accurate results when you need them.

The second thing that is needed is a quality dechlorinator that also neutralizes ammonia like Seachem Prime. This has the benefit of not only removing the chlorine, but temporarily detoxifies the ammonia for 24+ hours to buy your fish time between water changes. The ammonia level in your water is due to chloramines your city is using in the water which is a chlorine ammonia mixture, so having Prime to use during pwc's makes it that much more important.

The name of the game is water changes. Test your levels every day, and perform water changes as needed to keep your toxin levels as low as possible at all times until the tank is cycled. Let your (soon to be bought) test kit dictate how large and how often to change water, not the clock. The ammonia in the tap water will complicate things, but anytime the ammonia climbs to .5 I would do a 50% pwc. Remember to always use your Prime to detoxify the ammonia.

Once the tank is fully cycled, the ammonia and no2 will always be zero with some degree of nitrAtes. This can take quite some time for you to get there, so have patience, and always keep the bucket and water conditioner nearby ready for water changes.

Do NOT add any fish until the tank is fully cycled. Once it proves stable, you can add fish VERY slowly over the course of time making sure the tank remains stable for a while before adding others.

Decaying plants will only add to the ammonia level, so remove them if they are dying. If you have lighting to support plants, they can be a big help by absorbing some of the toxins in the tank.

I think this was already linked, but this will be the most important article you read on the subject...good luck!
http://www.aquariumadvice.com/artic...g-but-I-already-have-fish-What-now/Page2.html
 
Thanks, eco23 but I think you missed the part where we bought the API master test kit already. :) The list of of test results over the last few days is using that kit. And it's giving us wildly differing pH results, even though the other pH drip test set is giving us very consistent results -- so I'm baffled by that.

Sounds like we should certainly get the Seachem Prime -- I take it not all water dechlorinators have the ammonia neutralizer? We have just been using the sample that came with the tank, I think it's the Tetra Safe brand. Also, if the problem is chloramine in the tap water, why did the test strips done on the tank water show 0 chloramine? Just inaccurate testing? It was already converted to ammonia in the tank? I'm curious about how the chemistry works.

On the floating plant, should we remove the whole thing, or just the parts that have turned brown? No special lights for plants, just the regular hood lights which I think are incandescents. There is plenty of sunlight in the room but it's not direct on the tank, which is on the opposite side of the room from the windows.
 
Oops, yeah I missed that :)

Not all dechlorinators neutralize ammonia. Seachem Prime is widely recommended because it not only converts the ammo and no2 into a non toxic form for 24-36 hours, but it is also super concentrated. A single capful treats 50 gallons so it's a great value. I believe Amquel also neutralizes them, but I've never used it.

You're definitely getting some odd readings with your tests (not counting pH), but some of that might be due to the Tetra SafeStart you added (one of the very few types I even remotely have faith in). Make sure you are following the instructions for the nitrAte test that are in the booklet...not just what it says on the bottles. If you don't shake it for the required time, you get results all over the board.

I wouldn't use the pH adjusting chems. Especially with all the pwc's you've got coming up, it will cause fluctuations which are stressful for the fish. Your pH isn't high enough where it will be any problem as long as you keep your toxin levels as low as possible while the tank cycles. Here's a guide that shows how pH and temperature relate to ammonia toxicity-
http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forums/f12/your-guide-to-ammonia-toxicity-159994.html

One thing to try is leaving a glass of tap water sitting out overnight and see how the level changes. Things gassing out might be related to the fluctuations you're seeing with the pH in the tank.

Dying plants leech ammonia, so if it's on it's way out...I'd trash it. Fast growing plants can be a big help by absorbing ammonia in the water...but if they're unhealthy they only compound the problem. It's common for stores to sell non-aquatic plants and have them mislabeled...so that may be the issue here.

Just make sure you followed the guide I linked in my post this morning, and you can get get your fishies through it. Regardless of what you're told, the only thing a healthy aquarium needs (in most cases) is fresh water (pwc's) and a quality water conditioner.

Keep us posted :)
 
seekinghealth put it best ... skip ph boosters or bacteria in a bottle

Have to agree with Eco23 ... PWC's and testing's the name of the game ... especially if your keeping the fish ... and DON'T add anymore until the tank is cycled. Seachem Prime is an invaluable dechlorinator/conditioner ... it's highly recommended!

A stock incandescent bulb is next to useless for plants, you could look into CFL bulbs that can provide better lighting for plants. Your looking for bulbs with a color temperature of about 6500K and a wattage better than 1.0wpg.

Of course that's assuming the hood/fixture can handle the CFL bulbs. I just read somewhere to go with the U shaped instead of the spiral shaped. Worst case scenario ... if your looking for a planted tank ... you may need to upgrade to a T5 bulb / fixture. The link below has some info on fluorescent bulbs that I think can help. Hopefully your current hood can handle CFL's

Good luck!
PAR vs Distance, T5, T12, PC - Updated Again Charts
 
Yeah, the thing is I don't really WANT a planted tank. The stuff we bought just floats, and was represented to require no care. I didn't think to ask about lighting though. I'm not at all concerned that it's not really an aquatic plant, given where we bought it (specialty store, not from the big box dog food place).

We are definitely shaking the test solutions as directed, no worries there. I do wish they would put shorthand directions on the bottles for that -- I'm not confident enough that I remember all the times for shaking, waiting for results, etc. and it's a pain looking up the very small print in the booklet every time! Thinking about doing it myself with a Sharpie. :)

I did pick up a bottle of the Prime today (and returned the pH buffer thing) so we'll see what happens with that. Just as well since we just finished off the open trial package of water conditioner.
 
I think it's bottle #2 that you have to actually bang against the table or counter to break up the crystals inside. If you end up testing weekly, as we do, then just shaking will do. But with a new kit especially, bang the heck out of it. Do not be gentle.
 
That bottle of Acid buffer can cause fish death by dropping the pH to fast and shocking the fish. With pH you have 2 options, one, is just have your fish adapt to the higher pH. It's more important that the pH be stable than at an exact high or low number. But if it's really high and your worryied about it, you can add some Mopani Wood. The tannins in the wood slowly and naturally lower your pH.
With Mopanni wood you need to soak it in HOT water & Prime for several days first or it will make your tank look like tea. So soak it in hot water, changing the water every day and giving it a good scrub (just with water and a good brush). Once the water stays clear, put the wood inside your tank just like any other decoration. Then over the next week or so the pH should drop.

If you chose to do a fish-in cycle, you'll need to do PWC everyday to prevent ammonia and/or nitrIte poisoning. With the fish-in you need to keep the ammonia & the nitrItes below .25ppm at all times. Any higher and it will at the very least burn your fish and at most kill them.

I know that at first the API Master test Kit seems to be a PITA, with each test needing to be done in a different way. But after you've done each test several times, you'll never need to read the directions, it will all come from memory.
In fact after awhile it will all come easier. The first few months of cycling are the hardest, fish-in or fish-out. Once you get past all that, it does become much easier. Not maintainance free but, very low compared to cycling.

I have 4 tanks, 2 10g, 2 55g, I do my PWC twice a week on all 4, it takes less than 2 hours and I'm disabled from 5 back surgeries. After cycling, a lot of people only do their PWC once a week depending on their tank size, the population that kind of stuff. It will depend on you, your filters and your population. Guppies are the bunnies of the fish world

Don't beat yourself up about this cycling thing, it happens all the time. Far to many FS will sell you a tank and fish at the same time without explaining anything about cycling. Or worse saying "just add this from a bottle and in 24 hours your tank is ready". That way, when it doesn't work out they can turn around and sell you more bottles of (useless, IMO) garbage that's suppose to fix the emergency cycling problem. By not telling you what you really need to do for the safety of your fish, the store gets to make more money.

When I did my Fish-in cycle, my fish were very hardy. Guppies are suppose to be easy to care for but I don't know how tuff they are. They may not be a hardy enough species to tolerate the fish-in cycle. You'll need to research that online.

And like a few other's mentioned, the second FS you went to seems like a better place for a newbie to go.

Good luck to you & your Daughter, and welcome to AA and fish keeping.

PS. Some wise person here on AA wrote " I don't take care of my fish, I take care of the water. So the fish can take care of themselves".
Good water maintenance is the key to your fish (and you) having a long and happy life.
 
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Now I'm even more confused... Last night I did not have time/energy for a full battery of tests so I did just the ammonia, and got just a tinge of green -- not zero, but less than .25. Figured I could leave it overnight and we'd likely do a PWC today.

Test results this evening:

Ammonia 0 (seriously, sunny yellow)
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 5, maybe a bit higher but definitely not 10
pH 7.6 per API, 7.0 per Nutrafin

How did the ammonia go down, with no water change and no nitrites?

Why are my pH results bouncing all over the place with the API test, but remaining fairly stable with the Nutrafin test?
 
Now I'm even more confused... Last night I did not have time/energy for a full battery of tests so I did just the ammonia, and got just a tinge of green -- not zero, but less than .25. Figured I could leave it overnight and we'd likely do a PWC today.

Test results this evening:

Ammonia 0 (seriously, sunny yellow)
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 5, maybe a bit higher but definitely not 10
pH 7.6 per API, 7.0 per Nutrafin

How did the ammonia go down, with no water change and no nitrites?

Why are my pH results bouncing all over the place with the API test, but remaining fairly stable with the Nutrafin test?

The nitrItes are bad, you want them to read 0ppm at all times, just like the ammonia should read 0ppm. So those readings are perfect, it a good thing.
The ammonia is gone because you now have a NitrAte reading of 5-7ppm. This is also good.
After a tank has been cycled, all you should see is a bright Yellow/0ppm for Ammonia, a bright Blue/0ppm for NitrItes, and a medium orange/10-15ppm on the NitrAtes.
I would suggest that you stick with one test kit though. Otherwise your only going to confuse yourself with conflicting results.
 
Oh, I know I don't want nitrItes, ultimately, but have been expecting to see them because we didn't think the tank had cycled yet. Figured we've been seeing the 5ish nitrAte readings due to the the Tetra SafeStart.

I've kept doing the Nutrafin pH test only because our results are so bizarre with the API...it makes me feel better to see stable pH on one test. :)
 
Do you still just have the 1 guppy in the 10 gallon? If so it could just take a while for the waste to build up enough so that you see it on the test. Just keep testing every day and do water changes as needed. Fish-in cycles can take a while; plus with 1 fish in a 10 gal, I'm not sure of how large of a bioload that is (I'm guesing pretty small) so it could take a longer while, if I'm understanding the process correctly.

Your PH is fine, don't worry about it. As long as there aren't fast PH swings the fish will adapt to whatever your PH is.
 
An easy way out that a friend of mine takes is most fish stores will carry RO water...so it's already 100% ready for fish. I think if you use that and let the filter cycle with no fish for a couple weeks (while testing the water of course to be sure) I think it would be ok to get going. Not positive about all this but it's worked for all my friends tanks in the past.
 
SammieJo said:
An easy way out that a friend of mine takes is most fish stores will carry RO water...so it's already 100% ready for fish. I think if you use that and let the filter cycle with no fish for a couple weeks (while testing the water of course to be sure) I think it would be ok to get going. Not positive about all this but it's worked for all my friends tanks in the past.

Welcome to the site :)

Couple things to point out though. RO water is actually stripped of all elements and must have minerals, electrolytes, buffers, etc... added back in order to be usable for aquarium use. Now, whether some fish stores already prepare the RO water for you is something I don't know.

Also, letting a tank run empty without an ammonia source will not establish a beneficial bacteria colony capable of removing the toxins fish produce. I think you're on track, but here's an article about how it works as far as fishless cycling-
http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forum...guide-and-faq-to-fishless-cycling-148283.html
 
Do you still just have the 1 guppy in the 10 gallon? If so it could just take a while for the waste to build up enough so that you see it on the test. Just keep testing every day and do water changes as needed. Fish-in cycles can take a while; plus with 1 fish in a 10 gal, I'm not sure of how large of a bioload that is.

Yes, at the moment just the one guppy...plus a snail, which I swear has doubled in size since the last time I caught sight of it!

Still 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, 5 or so nitrate today.

Total elapsed time since we first put fish in the tank is now 20 days. D'you suppose we could add another fish or two this weekend? (Something hardier than Petsmart guppies!)
 
So, an update...we have nitrItes! I am calling this good news because it's evidence that the cycle is finally progressing.

We did add some fish last week, selected with the help of the good LFS, and now have two guppies, two cories and what turns out to be two little snails, plus some small clumps of the floating plant. Started getting some .25 ammonia readings again after that, have done PWCs every couple days. Today we got a .5 nitrIte reading and did a 40% PWC.

Letting it sit a bit before re-testing. Hoping we're in the home stretch. :)

Holly
 
okay i would recommend a nuetral regulator. you can get it at petsmart add it into the tank its a ph buffer so whether your high or low it will maintain a 7.0 ph which is ideal. second the bacteria in a bottle does work. you need to at least let your tank run fish free for 72 hours minimum. my advice if you want a cycle fish that puts off some good ammonia get a $.13 comet at petsmart. also grab an in tank ammonia monitor so that you can tell what its at in real time theyre about 7 bucks. i have saltwater tanks now but have had many many succesful freshwater tanks. also im a marine biology major. if you have any questions feel free to pm me
 
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