I've joined the dark side- Minibow 2.5 pico! *Frag pics!!!*

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severum mama

Aquarium Advice Addict
Joined
Dec 11, 2004
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Well, as many of you already know, I have about 100 lbs. of Fiji rock just sitting around here in a Rubbermaid container, waiting for a 90 gallon tank. Unfortunately, I still don't have that 90 gallon, and it driving me nuts to have all that rock doing nothing. So, I decided to set up a nano, which ended up being a pico!

My original plan was to use a 5 gallon or a 10 gallon, to get an incandescent hood, and to use the screw-in CF bulbs for lighting (a pc strip is sort of out of the budget at the moment), but I realized that I wouldn't really have the wattage I was looking for when I found out the bulbs were only 10W instead of 20. I went for the Minibow 2.5 instead so I would have enough light to keep some softies. 8)

Here's all the equipment, and my white dog who thinks he owns the place:
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Shown here are the Minibow, the Coralife 50/50 bulb, the smallest heater I could find, my sand and salt, and super cheap filter. I generally don't buy cheap filters, but this one is just going to be full of LR rubble anyway.

The tank is in my kitchen. I started to pick out my LR pieces, and hung the Aqua Tech filter.
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Here's where I ran into a problem- D'OH! The intake tube on the Aqua Tech sticks out too far into the tank. I didn't want to mod the hood, so I swapped it out for the Aquaclear 20 on my betta tank. Don't worry, I stuffed the AC media into the Aqua Tech. Then I added the heater and some more LR:
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Here's the AC, full of rubble:
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Then I changed the 'scape, and added some different rocks. I really like the one with the hole.
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Another shot:
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Now for the questions.
I am moving 100 gph with the Aquaclear, is that enough for this tank? My bulb is 10W. Is that enough light, given that all I want to do with this tank is to keep some shrooms and zoos? My planned stock list is a couple of snails and maybe a cleaner shrimp. Will that work? I wasn't planning on keeping any fish, but just in case it's possible, would a clown goby work in place of the shrimp? Finally, what do you all think of the 'scape? :D

I know that keeping a pico is difficult, but I think it will be really interesting to try it. I've started cycling with some fish food so there isn't much to see yet, but I plan to do the photo journal thing as I add to the tank, so watch for updates! 8)
 
Awesome! I have the exact same tank at home with the AC 20, I really like it.

I think an all invert tank would be perfect for a 2.5 gallon. I wouldn't add a clown goby, but that's just me. :)

A few questions about the scape. It looks quite "vertical" which isn't bad but means that you might have some issues with scaping the corals in there. You are going to want them to get as much light as possible, and since the the lights on the minibows are sorta more towards the back of the tank, it would see most of the light would be shining on the top of the rocks and not neccesarily directly on the corals. I hope that makes sense, lol. But... if you are already at the back of the tank (no problem in leaning the rocks on the back of the tank) you may not have a choice.

It might also be a lot easier to clean with more room in the front of the rocks.

Another thing, about that heater. I have the same on my 2.5 gallon and it's just too strong. It overheats the tank, even though it's supposed to turn off. Mine might just be broken, but I'd keep an eye on the temps for the first few days.

Finally, keep the top little feeding lid open. This is important in saltwater tanks to allow air into the water and to escape. If you use a closed lid you can run into pH problems.

Can't wait to see how it unfolds!
 
Do you have any pics of your tank? I'd love to check 'em out.

I changed the scape today. Basically, I moved the heater to the left under the filter, so I would have that much more space to push the LR back. Then I took out a few of the small pieces, and rearranged the others. Here's how it turned out.
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Closer.
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When I read your post, I could totally see where you were coming from, especially in terms of cleaning! Feel free to critique the new scape as well. I have PLENTY of LR just sitting around here, so I can just swap out what I've chosen for something smaller if necessary. 8)

Mine might just be broken, but I'd keep an eye on the temps for the first few days.
So far, everything's fine there. I put a thermometer in the tank today, and the temp is at 77. I've been watching the heater and it's hardly turned itself on today. But, I appreciate the heads-up and I'll keep watching it. :D

Good news- the cycle has officially started! I tested the water today and found:
pH- 8.2-8.3 (those API colors are hard to read!)
Ammonia- .5; YAY!
Nitrite- 0.
Nitrate- 10-15- this is kinda weirding me out, but it could be due to the tap water that I am using ATM. I'll probably switch to RO/DI, or at least distilled, before anything alive is introduced.
 
Thanks! Do you think I have too much LR in there? I know I should have as much as possible for bio-filtration, but I don't want to get ridiculous.

Also, as far as cycling, should I add a pinch of fish food every day, or is that too often?
 
Great news- I got a refractometer today! No new pics to post, as it looks exactly the same as yesterday.

I tested the water again, after adding another pinch of flake food.
Ammonia= .25 ppm
pH= 8.1-8.2 (again, so hard to tell with the color card)
Nitrite= 0 ppm
Nitrate= 20 ppm
temp= 77
SG= 1.024

I topped up the tank today with distilled water. After the cycle finishes, I'll start doing pwc's with distilled water. I'm sure the tap water is causing the nitrate reading, thus the switch.

On another note- Oceanic brand salt is awesome. I only had experience (from work) with IO and Tropic Marin (which is clearly better than IO). I was really impressed with the Oceanic because it dissolves so quickly, and you don't end up with that grainy stuff at the bottom of the bucket like with IO.
 
Congrats on the new tank! It looks like you are off to a great start! I love my pico tank. Nice work on the refracto as well, You will be surprised at what your sailinity level really is.
 
Thanks!

Nice work on the refracto as well, You will be surprised at what your sailinity level really is.
True, sort of... I work for an LFS, so I know how inaccurate a hydrometer is compared to a refractometer. That's why I didn't even bother to post SG until tonight.

Should I add more flake food every day to get the ammonia higher than .25? TIA.
 
I only had experience (from work) with IO and Tropic Marin (which is clearly better than IO).
Well, both tend to test low in both Ca and Mg. For the price, IO is the better salt/buy IMO. Oceanic tends to be very high in Ca, (ie 500) and low in Alk. Not a good mix for tanks w/ calcareous animals such as stoney coral. The bottom line is they all have limitations and benefits. Switching salt mixes is stressful on animals, especially inverts. It's best to find a mix you like and work/stick with it. Many people find it useful, including myself, to buffer their new SW to the appropriate levels of Ca, Alk, Mg, and/or PH using the appropriate additives. There is an online calculator that is very helpful in determining the amount of additive required. I can link it if you want, from my other PC later.
topped up the tank today with distilled water
I've heard of people getting ammonia readings from distilled, bottled water. You may want to check it to be sure it's ok.
Should I add more flake food every day to get the ammonia higher than .25?
I think that is enough. I would continue to add just a little to provide a constant ammo source. You may want a second opinion, it's been awhile since I cycled a tank.
HTH
 
Well, both tend to test low in both Ca and Mg. For the price, IO is the better salt/buy IMO. Oceanic tends to be very high in Ca, (ie 500) and low in Alk. Not a good mix for tanks w/ calcareous animals such as stoney coral. The bottom line is they all have limitations and benefits. Switching salt mixes is stressful on animals, especially inverts. It's best to find a mix you like and work/stick with it. Many people find it useful, including myself, to buffer their new SW to the appropriate levels of Ca, Alk, Mg, and/or PH using the appropriate additives. There is an online calculator that is very helpful in determining the amount of additive required. I can link it if you want, from my other PC later.

Interesting. I know IO is cheaper, but my choices at the time were either a tiny bag of IO, the Oceanic that I got, or the 5 gallon buckets that I couldn't afford. :lol: I was just surprised at how easy the Oceanic was to mix compared to the IO. And Tropic Marin just rocks IMO, 8) but it's much more expensive than IO. I know there are drawbacks to every brand, though, just like with most products. I'd like to check out that link you mentioned if you can find it, but as a noob it will probably be a while before I understand much of it. :lol: I'm not looking to keep any difficult corals, just a bunch of zoos and maybe some shrooms. I know I took a difficult route with such a small tank, so other than that I'm trying to keep it as easy as possible.

I didn't get to my computer last night, but I topped off and tested the water again.
Ammonia= .25 ppm
Nitrite= 0 ppm
Nitrate= 20 ppm
pH= 8.3
SG= 1.024

Thanks for the heads-up about the distilled water. I'll check that out later, but I did have an ammonia reading with just dechlorinated tap water before I started using the distilled.

I appreciate the help everyone, and I'll post more test results tonight. :D
 
Been a while since I full out cycled a tank as well. It's weird that you are seeing little ammonia and already 20 ppm of nitrate, with no nitrites. I never even got to 20 ppm trates when I was cycling my 45 gallon, lol.

The rock you used was all the rock that you were curing in the tub right? Did it stink when you took it out of water or was it pretty much ocean scented? Can you take the water to your LFS to get the readings verified?
 
Nitrate- 10-15- this is kinda weirding me out, but it could be due to the tap water that I am using ATM. I'll probably switch to RO/DI, or at least distilled, before anything alive is introduced.
I'm assuming it's the tap water. When I start doing water changes (and not just top offs) I do not plan to use tap water again.

Yep, I used the rock from my Rubbermaid tub. It didn't smell like anything when I took it out. I'm so far off from buying that 90 that I haven't done anything with it in a couple of months, so it's no longer cycled (it was for a while). But even as a noob, believe me, I know what uncured rock smells like, LOL! Working at the LFS, I've put many shipments from M.I. into the store's rock tub- YUCK! :lol:
 
Haha, I totally missed that first part, sorry! In that case, I'd be patient for a few more days and if your NH3 doesn't climb anymore I'd consider adding in a small raw shrimp, probably even cut it in half with that small of a tank. That way you'll be sure that it will provide an ammonia source for the tank.

Can't wait for pics. :)
 
Hi!

I have this same filter on a newly started 20gallon SW tank.

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Should I take out the Active Carbon and Bio Media and Sponge? Looks like yours has only rubble in it. Do sw tanks not need the active carbon and other stuff that FW tanks need?
 
I opted to only use LR rubble because I've been told that regular bio/mechanical media can cause nitrate problems later down the road in a SW tank. As for carbon, I don't generally use it even in my FW tanks, unless I need to remove a med.

Are you using any powerheads, or do you just have the Aquaclear? I'm just asking because the Aquaclear alone won't turn over enough water in a 20 gallon tank.
 
I am using the Aquaclear50 HOB Filter and an additional AquaClear20 PowerHead.. I cant beleive you dont have to use ActiveCarbon. I figured that would be a double must in sw vs fw... sw is sooo different than fw tanks...
 
OK, so I tested again tonight. My mom flew in to town from TX about a week and 1/2 ago and I spent all my free time hanging out with her, so I didn't do much of anything with my tanks during that time. Now I'm kicking myself for not testing for 12 days! I'm confused about my results.

pH= 7.8 (I think I need to scrap the hood and buy a small Coralife strip light to facilitate gas exchange. I'll do this when funds permit.)
Ammonia= 0
Nitrite= 0
Nitrate= 20-25 (color chart is hard to read.)
SG= 1.024- at least that makes sense lol!

I find it hard to believe that I've cycled at this point, but there is decaying NLS lg fish formula pellet food at the bottom of my tank, so I don't know what to think. Of course, I welcome any opinions. Not only am I a noob to SW, but also a noob to fishless cycling!
 
Ok, after my tank cycled, I did a 65% water change and added 3 little frags! I added the frags last night, and they look like they are doing well so far. :D I got some star polyps, a couple of blue mushrooms, and some zoos.

Without further ado, here are the pics!

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I hope I didn't overdo it with the new additions, but they are really small so I thought it would be ok. Here's a full tank shot to sort of put the frags in perspective. I also removed one of the pieces of LR. It just seemed like the 'scape was way too tall.

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I also tested the water again tonight.
pH= 7.8 (I'm now seriously considering either upgrading the light, or modding the hood somehow to allow more gas exchange.)
Ammonia= 0
Nitrite= 0
Nitrate= 10
SG= 1.024
temp= 79

As always, I welcome any comments, suggestions, etc. I plan to do a water change either tonight or tomorrow, and from then on out probably twice a week... will this be enough or should I change more frequently? Also, how long should I wait to add more frags? I don't want to rush things. And one more question, when should I start considering a clean-up crew, and what should I consider? :D
 
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