Khuligirl's planted 20 long

[Bert2oo1]

My drop checker is yellow for the last 2-3 hours of my photo and my fish show know signs of stress at all. However I don't have shrimp. I gassed a snail and 1 fish once but I dialed it back slightly and all has been good


30g planted, 90g Oscar tank

 

[Khuligirl93]

Are you positive the shrimp was responding to the increased co2 levels. I know that my amanos will go absolutes nutty when wanting to breed. Looks like they are looking for something to kill. Whether you need the opposite sex in the tank to see this effect I'm not sure.

Earlier you said the drop checker turned yellow towards the end of the photoperiod but now you say it's for
The entire photoperiod. I'm just trying to figure out how you have the co2. Nearly all of us are certain that we have enough co2 but actually don't. Co2 also drives nutrient uptake. Are you sure PPS-pro is cutting the mustard?

No, I am not positive. But I've had him about a week and have never seen that behavior before, until about 30 mins after I turned up the CO2, coincidence?
The color of my drop checker has always been a lime green (at least during the photoperiod). Towards the end of the day it almost seems clear, but its hard to tell since theres nothing white behind it. After turning the CO2 up a tiny bit yesterday, thats when it turned a definite yellow.
Not 100% sure the pps-pro is cutting it.. but my nitrates are 20 and Po4 is at 3 or 4. I'm not aware of any way to measure micros or potassium, but I'm not noticing any obvious deficiencies.

 

[Barliman]

That's green hair algae and it can be a major pain in the behind, as you've discovered. I will say that it's been inevitable in my experience with new tanks as they settle in, but it does go away once a balance has been reached. For now you just need to keep extracting it with a toothbrush while you figure out where the problem is.

I've found this site handy for algae. Here's what it says about green hair:

This type of algae is extremely fast growing. Consider a "bad" algae that usually grows on plant leaves and weaves its way in and around creating thick matted clumps. It is bright green in color and has a very fine slimy texture. Individual strands can grow as long as 20 cm. Cannot be removed easily mechanically. If left unchecked it will spread and overtake an aquarium under good water conditions. The situation that causes green hair algae to bloom is usually a combination of excessive lighting, high levels of dissolved organics and/or nutrient imbalance, in particular, excessive iron.
If you're having green hair algae problems try removing as much algae as possible with a tooth brush or with your fingers. Then add some SAE's and Amano Shrimps to your tank. These algae eaters will quickly control and eventually eliminate this type of algae from your tank. Smaller types of shrimps also eat this algae but not as effective as Amano's and SAE's.

Since you do PPS-Pro, I wonder if you haven't too much iron, as suggested above.

As for the amano, you need several more than just one to have an effect. I'd suggest five or six -- they're not a heavy bioload at all.

 

[Khuligirl93]

Hmm not sure thats what I have. Mine is not green, more of a brown. And it doesn't have a slimy texture.
Iron is only a small portion of the nutrients in the GLA micro mixture isn't it? If iron is the problem, should I just dose less micros? I've been following the instructions and doing 1 ml per 10 gallons of tank volume each day before the lights come on.

Yesterday I did get a recommendation by someone on a facebook group to try putting my diffuser inside my HOB filter underneath the sponges to increase CO2 absorption. The idea is to see how low you can have it turned down and still reach 30ppm. The drop checker stayed a lime green yesterday like it usually does, but I like the idea of increasing the efficiency and using less CO2 so I'll keep it that way for a while to see if it really makes a difference.

I also did another ~25% water change yesterday just using a small diameter hose to suck out as much thread algae as possible. It's just frustrating with all these new plants I have because their roots aren't deep yet and I keep pulling them out on accident. Especially the Hydrocotle

Oh and my one amano seems to have dissappeared.. not sure if he jumped ship after the high CO2 freaked him out, or what. I cant find a body anywhere in the tank or on the floor. I would love to get a bunch of amanos to do the work for me, but at $5 each thats a lot of money in shrimp IMO. Especially if they're going to be dying on me or jumping out..

 

[Fresh2o]

A small toothbrush might be your best bet for removing the algae.
When I used DIY CO2, I would allow the whole bubbles to get sucked up by the HOB filter. Noisy but effective. With pressurized CO2, I place the diffuser under the HOB intake with the idea that the bubbles will get trapped in the floss/media and extend the contact time with water. I run around 1-3 bps. My drop checkers are clear because I've been neglectful in changing the solution.
Interesting about the micros; I dose 1 mL per 10g, however, I've heard GLA is recommending a lower dose. I ran out of micros a few weeks ago and need to mix up some more.
I was perusing a shrimp vendor site and the crystal reds/blacks were going for $99 a piece. Ouch.

 

[Khuligirl93]

I did move my diffuser very close to the intake of the HOB in attempt to get better absorption, but because its so oversized, the intake almost reaches the substrate so it can't fit exactly below it.

That's a good point about the drop checker fluid- maybe it's time for me to change it.

I've noticed that the majority of the algae is in the corner of the tank that occasionally gets sunlight from the window, so I've covered up that side with a towel.

Despite the algae, most of the plants are showing new, healthy growth
http://i349.photobucket.com/albums/q381/bnz0429/A8D5B422-FFED-4137-985F-1B2FC056C7A8_zpsphpsmqk2.jpg http://i349.photobucket.com/albums/q381/bnz0429/AADFDE82-FF96-451B-BA8E-A7ED4CE5BC10_zpskwseibkd.jpg http://i349.photobucket.com/albums/q381/bnz0429/2FD409C8-9B75-4D09-913C-B3AEB3CCD325_zpswlded8rl.jpg

 

[Fresh2o]

I believe junglefowl or hans aquatics sells stainless steel intake screens that fit over the HOB intake. You can remove the strainer extension tube. In this case, the intake will be higher and have a better chance at capturing the CO2 mist.
The plants look good. I got the plant in the second pic and the AR mini from an AA member in Arkansas.

 

[Caliban07]

I did move my diffuser very close to the intake of the HOB in attempt to get better absorption, but because its so oversized, the intake almost reaches the substrate so it can't fit exactly below it.



That's a good point about the drop checker fluid- maybe it's time for me to change it.



I've noticed that the majority of the algae is in the corner of the tank that occasionally gets sunlight from the window, so I've covered up that side with a towel.



Despite the algae, most of the plants are showing new, healthy growth

http://i349.photobucket.com/albums/q381/bnz0429/A8D5B422-FFED-4137-985F-1B2FC056C7A8_zpsphpsmqk2.jpg http://i349.photobucket.com/albums/q381/bnz0429/AADFDE82-FF96-451B-BA8E-A7ED4CE5BC10_zpskwseibkd.jpg http://i349.photobucket.com/albums/q381/bnz0429/2FD409C8-9B75-4D09-913C-B3AEB3CCD325_zpswlded8rl.jpg

This is very encouraging. The new growth looks very healthy which may suggest you have found the right balance for your tank. Now you just have to keep taking that algae out. Usually when you have growth like this it doesn't come back.

 

[Barliman]

With pressurized CO2, I place the diffuser under the HOB intake with the idea that the bubbles will get trapped in the floss/media and extend the contact time with water.

(Butting in) That's a good idea. I'll be getting a pressurized system soon and was trying to figure out the best place for the diffuser.

 

[BioChem]

You've got new tank syndrome. Crank up the CO2. Get a 10ml syringe and fill with hydrogen peroxide. inject hydrogen peroxide as close to the infected areas as possible. Do this every day if needed. This will be a continuous battle until your tank establishes.

 

[Khuligirl93]

You've got new tank syndrome. Crank up the CO2. Get a 10ml syringe and fill with hydrogen peroxide. inject hydrogen peroxide as close to the infected areas as possible. Do this every day if needed. This will be a continuous battle until your tank establishes.

Thanks BioChem, I'll try that.
http://i349.photobucket.com/albums/q381/bnz0429/EB9A7609-22CB-4F02-BB81-ACB5FA96665D_zpstxxicz8u.jpg
Since I last posted, the algae has definitely gotten worse. I've started doing small water changes almost every other day with airline tubing to suck out the worst parts. Unfortunately, I think removing water is giving me nutrient deficiencies because I've started seeing tiny spots of Green Brush and Black Beard algae on the parts of the driftwood closest to the light (I anticipated those areas being an issue because there are no plants to shade them and the PAR is extremely high right there).
At a first glance, the tank looks great. You all would think I was crazy for complaining about all this algae if I posted a FTS right now. But looking closely at the plants you see tons of that stringy stuff in between them.
I ordered some Excel, and I just got an email saying it was delivered to my apartment
I've also decreased the photoperiod by an hour, so it's down to 6, but the CO2 time on is the same (Comes on about 2 hrs before lights and goes off 1 hr before lights).
My missing amano showed up, alive and well, so when I was at the LFS yesterday and saw they had a ton of HUGE amanos, I picked up 2 more. Those guys are little machines. I don't think the airline tubing water changes will be necessary any more.
http://i349.photobucket.com/albums/q381/bnz0429/B97F90F0-B893-4FD6-8793-06412CE1CCC0_zps2yxhr6eb.jpg
My experiment with putting the diffuser underneath the sponges inside the HOB was a huge fail. I came home the next day 2 hours into the photoperiod and the drop checker was still blue. So I've placed it back in the tank, right underneath the HOB outflow. Unfortunately, the diffuser is suction cupped so close to the tank glass, that as the bubbles go straight upwards, they actually collect behind the outflow, instead of getting pushed out into the tank. Not sure what a solution to this is, or if it really is even an issue, because there are still plenty of microbubbles that get distributed, and some get sucked into the intake.

 

[Bert2oo1]

I had the same issues as this when my tank was balancing. I battled all the algae that u have. I spot treated BBA with excel 5ml per day. Tooth brushed out all hair algae as it appeared and I found my main issues were lack of co2 and lack of flow. Once I had 30+ ppm of co2 and strong flow through the entire aquarium everything disappeared within 2 weeks

I switched to an inline diffuser on my canister for better co2 input

 

[Khuligirl93]

I had the same issues as this when my tank was balancing. I battled all the algae that u have. I spot treated BBA with excel 5ml per day. Tooth brushed out all hair algae as it appeared and I found my main issues were lack of co2 and lack of flow. Once I had 30+ ppm of co2 and strong flow through the entire aquarium everything disappeared within 2 weeks

I switched to an inline diffuser on my canister for better co2 input

Good to know. I've been thinking I need to get a tiny powerhead or something to push the CO2 bubbles around, but I really shouldn't be spending much more money on this tank. It's interesting starting a high-tech tank from the start, and seeing how different it is than converting an already established tank into high-tech.
I was just reminiscing about my first little 10 gallon high-tech tank, and going through the pics on my profile. Its actually quite amazing how well it turned out despite how little I knew! I'd done a little research about planted tanks, and on a whim purchased a finnex ray2, stuck it on the tank with the same paintball canister I have now for CO2, and voila- zero algae outbreaks ha! I wasn't even dosing ferts or anything.. I didn't know how lucky I was.

 

[Khuligirl93]

Picked up a dozen of these little beauties today... http://i349.photobucket.com/albums/q381/bnz0429/50492307-62AB-4DBC-A85D-59D62723217F_zpsg0ekawku.jpg
http://i349.photobucket.com/albums/q381/bnz0429/7D79CC2C-91F8-483E-8D7E-2A26BB1E6244_zpszl3yyhch.jpg

Although I fear that every single one may be female.. and none are berried

 

[TMaier]

The little shrimps are so cute.


Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice

 

[Khuligirl93]

Ok update. My master test kit came in, as did my excel. Wow. I saw immediate results after one day of dosing the excel- both the hydrocotle and the ammania bonsai showed very large, new leaves today after dosing it for the first time last night! Algae seems better too
http://i349.photobucket.com/albums/q381/bnz0429/C30B9438-A6E7-4236-83E0-CC26DDB6491B_zpsnhdedkq4.jpg Only problem is that I accidentally overdosed. Instructions say the first time you dose it to add 5ml (one capful) per 10 gallons! So i thought, I'll start slow and so I did about half of that (~5 ml). Then today before my lights came on, dosed the same amount again. I saw a shrimp exoskeleton, and then found a dead shrimp, so I did a 5 gallon water change. Not sure if it was because of the excel or not, but I figured better safe than sorry. What do you guys think? Should I start just dosing the regular amount (1ml per 10g)?

Water test results: From left to right: Phosphate, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate. Phosphates could be a little higher, but aside from that everything is right where I want it! http://i349.photobucket.com/albums/q381/bnz0429/DE9ED602-91C4-4160-BC7A-D01D71D5B40C_zpsjvmnwyo1.jpg

 

[Caliban07]

Ok update. My master test kit came in, as did my excel. Wow. I saw immediate results after one day of dosing the excel- both the hydrocotle and the ammania bonsai showed very large, new leaves today after dosing it for the first time last night! Algae seems better too

http://i349.photobucket.com/albums/q381/bnz0429/C30B9438-A6E7-4236-83E0-CC26DDB6491B_zpsnhdedkq4.jpg Only problem is that I accidentally overdosed. Instructions say the first time you dose it to add 5ml (one capful) per 10 gallons! So i thought, I'll start slow and so I did about half of that (~5 ml). Then today before my lights came on, dosed the same amount again. I saw a shrimp exoskeleton, and then found a dead shrimp, so I did a 5 gallon water change. Not sure if it was because of the excel or not, but I figured better safe than sorry. What do you guys think? Should I start just dosing the regular amount (1ml per 10g)?



Water test results: From left to right: Phosphate, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate. Phosphates could be a little higher, but aside from that everything is right where I want it! http://i349.photobucket.com/albums/q381/bnz0429/DE9ED602-91C4-4160-BC7A-D01D71D5B40C_zpsjvmnwyo1.jpg

Yeah perhaps just reduce the dosing to about 2ml per day and keep an eye on things. As the plants grow you may need more.

Glad things have improved for you already. [emoji106]

 

[Barliman]

Not sure if it was because of the excel or not, but I figured better safe than sorry. What do you guys think? Should I start just dosing the regular amount (1ml per 10g)?

I'm pretty sure the glutaraldehyde in the Excel was the cause: invertebrates and some plants can be sensitive to it.

You've discovered the same thing I did when I started using Excel on my 20-long: I was inadvertently dosing a cap-full per day, 2.5 times the recommended dose. I had no algae problem then, and plant growth was good. When I corrected and went to the regular dose (2ml per day), plant growth slowed and algae got out of control.

I've since gradually upped the dose to 4ml per day: plants are showing new growth, algae is slowed, and the shrimps show no ill effect. Rather than go back to 5ml, though, in case I cross a threshold, I'm going to implement a pressurized CO2 setup as soon as I can find the right one.

 

[Brookster123]

Mehh the excel instructions are beyond tame. I've been dosing my tank with almost a ml/gal of the full strength metricide. Gradually building up dose would be important (I think anyways). Certain plants like vals won't tolerate it for a minute.. don't think the rcs will survive it either. Could be wrong there though

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Aquarium Advice mobile app

 

[Khuligirl93]

Ok, so I've been dosing 1.5-2 ml of excel daily in addition to CO2. I've had a couple more shrimp deaths... I think there are maybe 7 or 8 left out of the original 12. One died tonight because it got sucked onto the filter intake. The black sponge I had over it started restricting the flow for some reason and multiple days in a row I came home from work to almost no water movement in the tank. So I cut the mesh off of an extra net I had, and rubber banded it around the intake. The problem with it though is 1) it still clogs after a few hours and the flow is diminished again, and 2) it sucks water in with extreme force and sucked a shrimp onto it. Anyone have any ideas to fix this? I took the impeller magnet out and cleaned it, thinking that it was possibly clogged, but it was fine.

Also- I picked up 8 of these guys! http://i349.photobucket.com/albums/q381/bnz0429/8B8FBB4A-8E5D-4CCE-A57D-E89BC698BE92_zps60lig6jp.jpg

And 3 of these little shrimp harassers (I doubt I'll have any cherry shrimp breeding with them in the tank) http://i349.photobucket.com/albums/q381/bnz0429/B0BBA32F-3752-4053-95E3-30558BFA3041_zpspzz3k7ty.jpg

Red ludwigia looking good, but is it normal for the leaves to look a little small and wrinkled? At least compared to the repens. Or is it just unhappy because its a more difficult plant?
http://i349.photobucket.com/albums/q381/bnz0429/83856FFE-928E-4F4E-855D-810650DD8753_zpsy5osrzkc.jpg

Today I did a water change and trimmed/ moved some things around. I removed the water sprite, the bacopa, and heavily trimmed the hygro. Both the water sprite and hygro have been growing like weeds, shading the plants next to them, and the bacopa was growing staghorn algae on its leaves and I needed more space to spread out the ludwigias and rotala colorata.

Before trim:
http://i349.photobucket.com/albums/q381/bnz0429/75553574-24D8-4393-8D96-7BEDFD801351_zpsio5blc7a.jpg
After trim:
http://i349.photobucket.com/albums/q381/bnz0429/678CE094-5FDF-4D7A-9483-5EA95E2F912A_zpsugfq24ni.jpg

This tank is turning out to be much higher maintenance than I had hoped. Considering tearing most things out and just doing crypts and some dwarf vals.