Lighting/CO2 question

[monsterz3ro]

Ok...I have about 80 billion threads open right now with questions...and the more I read, the more I realize how little I know.

I'm going today to buy a T5 lighting system for my 56 gallon aquarium. I want a little more flexibility in what I can plant in there. I also am thinking more and more that I will need to change substrate from the pea-sized gravel I have, to something smaller, and apparently I need to add something like EcoComplete beneath the top layer.

1. If I get the T5 lights, will I automatically need to then introduce a CO2 system? (I'd prefer to avoid the CO2 system...I want an aquarium that is beautiful but manageable...want to take things one step at a time).
1a. If I m not getting a CO2 system, should I avoid T5 lighting?

2. Is there a cap on how many plants I can introduce before I'd need to introduce CO2?

3. If I change my gravel/substrate, what should I change it to to be effective for the widest variety of plants?

4. Are there alternatives (drop-in additives maybe?) to layers of substrates and nutrients? Are they less effective for plant growth?

I don't care if my plants are huge and perfect...I just want them to be healthy, and manageable...and I'd like to do this in conjunction with whatever steps will make (for now) the easiest aquarium maintenance scenario (aka best steps/setup to avoid algae issues, etc).

I thought I had a good understanding of all of this, but like I said, the more I read...


BTW, current setup is

56 gallon column aquarium, pea-sized gravel substrate, stock lighting (crappy), 1 over-the-side filter (AquaClear 50), no heater yet, no C02 (ever, hopefully)...

5 plant clusters (3 Carolina Fanwort [I believe], 2 clusters of as-yet unidentified stalk/stem plants [tall narrow stems with a few leaf clusters every few inches...not ring-like the way Fanwort is]), 6 scissortail rasbora, 1 tangerine angelfish, 1 brown/translucent shrimp the species-name of which I do not recall.

Currently the water tests are all in perfect range...not sure what affect this has on the responses I may get, but thought I'd add it in (pH/ammonia/nitrites/nitrates all at acceptable/good levels).

Please help...oh and please feel free to seek out my other 60 bajillion questions and have a look at them, if you're bored or feeling generous...

Thanks ahead of time...


(BTW, can anyone identify any of the plants here? Having a hard time finding on plantgeek...)

http://img811.imageshack.us/i/imag0561c.jpg

 

[mfdrookie516]

Well... I think 80 Billion is a bit of an over estimate.. you only have 18 posts

But, I'll offer my advice here...

1 (and 1a)- Not entirely. It really boils down to the wattage of the bulbs. Your tank is a 36" tank, right? You could do a 2x39w T5HO without having to inject co2. Any more than that and I think you'd need to though.

2- Going back to number 1, the need for co2 is based on lighting, not number of plants.

3- Really, anything is fine. Gravel makes it harder to plant, and roots tend to do a little better in sandy substrates. I've used PFS before, and currently in two of my planted tanks, the other is a mix of flourite and flora-max. IMO, if you're not going high tech, there's no need to get a specialty substrate. Any larger grained sand will work. If you've already got gravel and the tank is set up, unless you just want to change over, you don't have to. They'll be fine with gravel.

4- You can dose ferts. You may or may not need to. That's basically going to be determined by the plants. You can also dose excel (or any other gluderaldahyde product) as a source of carbon, much like injecting co2.

 

[monsterz3ro]

Thanks MFD! I was actually reading a thread of yours this morning!

BTW, aquarium is atypical dimensions: 30-1/4"L x 18-1/4"W x 57-7/16"H...I think slightly taller than typical, but not sure...and not as wide or narrow as typical...does this have small, moderate, or large bearing on your advice?

 

[mfdrookie516]

Well, with a 30" 2x24w T5HO fixture, you won't have quite as much light. You could, IMO, go with a 4x24w 30" fixture, put one actinic (blue) bulb in and 3 daylight bulbs (between 6500k and 10,000k) and get moderate lighting, but not cross the threshold on co2 requirement.

 

[monsterz3ro]

Excellent.

Regarding this, the dimensions are screwy, and the last T5 I had (before I returned it to take it a little slower with getting this aquarium up and running) wouldn't fit properly- that is, the clamps on the side that fit onto the frame of the aquarium, even at max width, were just a hair shy of reaching...so...if I have this thing (ugh...ugly) sitting on top of the aquarium lid (glass), it will result in it being somewhere in the vicinity of 1/2 to 1 1/2 inches higher than it typically would be...I know this is now venturing from biology into physics, so no biggie if you can't make a good guestimate offhand, but, do you think that would profoundly effect anything, that extra bit of space between the bottom of the tank, and the light source? I imagined that it shouldn't, since the lid is glass and air doesn't diffuse light nearly as acutely as water, but...wasn't sure...any ideas/thoughts?

 

[mfdrookie516]

All my fixtures sit up off my tank. The only time you'll get one that fits really close like you're talking about is with one of those hood/strip light combos, which doesn't work for plants usually. My lights hang above my 125 about 3" above the trim. The distance from the bottom of the tank to the light may play a little factor, but T5HO with good reflectors should reach down pretty good. I wouldn't try any low growing higher light demanding plants though.

 

[monsterz3ro]

If I could take just a little more of your time (and general generosity)...

I'm going to go after work today and get the light fixture and an additional 50 gal filter...I'd like to have some notes to take with me regarding the lighting to buy...you have mentioned 2 types of lighting fixtures (2-bulb and 4-bulb) T5 fixtures...

If you have just a minute, could you list out (and if you have two minutes and are feeling extra nice, maybe put in order of preference for setting this up with, as discussed, no CO2 set-up required) the best combinations I should look for (in terms of 2 bulb vs 4 bulb, blue bulbs vs daylight bulbs [vs? anything else?], 6500k vs 10000k...etc? I really hate to keep bugging you and appreciate all your help, even if you can't respond back here again.

I just want to have a battle plan with me when I go in and am trying to figure out what to get.

 

[mfdrookie516]

Not a problem. I'd highly suggest checking online though for your lights. I got all my lights from fishneedit.com... they have the best prices I've found, and good quality fixtures IMO.

So, if you go with a 2 bulb, get two daylight bulbs. If you go with a 4 bulb fixture, get 3 daylight and one actinic. The actinic does nothing for plants, but will add a nice blue tint to your tank. I find them appealing, though I run all daylights on mine (co2 injected). I prefer 10,000k bulbs over 6500k. The 6500k's are just a little too yellow for my liking. The difference in spectrum between a 6500k and 10,000k is so minimal, it really doesn't matter to the plants (but don't go outside that range). When you go to the shop, just keep in mind that the fishneedit 30" 4 bulb unit is $109 plus about $10 shipping. I highly doubt your LFS will have anything even remotely comparable in price. Just my $.02 there.


Its always good to research before you buy... kudos to you for that. I'm sure your wallet will appreciate it as well

 

[monsterz3ro]

Actually, the 2-bulb fixture (plus 1 blue and 1 daylight bulb) came in right at 110, though it didn't fit the aquarium...are the 4-bulb set-ups more expensive? Currently, the plants are in such good condition from when I bought them that I'd be willing to pay a little extra for the setup just to keep the plants happy and healthy...though I'm going to go do some pricing regardless at fishneedit (thank you for the link btw, hadn't heard of that retailer). Also, will the 2-bulb set-up with one blue and one daylight, be less effective with the 4-bulb set-up with 1 blue 3 daylight? Is 2-bulb or 4-bulb preferable over the other? Any benefits/drawbacks?

Thanks again, infinitely, for all your help with this.

 

[mfdrookie516]

The reasoning for the blue bulb is to keep you from going over the co2 line, so to speak. If you run 4 bulbs, I think you'll be pushing it without co2 and probably have some issues with algae. With the 1 blue bulb, essentially making the fixture a 3 bulb setup in the eyes of the plants, you shouldn't see any algae issues if you keep on top of everything.

So, if you went with a 2 bulb, you could still keep plants, you'd just be limited to those in the 'low light' category, where with the 4 bulb setup with one actinic you'll be in the medium category... IMO of course.