Andy Sager
Aquarium Advice Addict
Except...
... A lot of the wholesalers who the LFS get their fish from also run copper so how long the store had the fish isn't really the issue. What is is the fact that when you take a fish that has just arrived at a wholesale house and acclimated, then taken to a store and reacclimated, then purchased by the customer who also acclimates the fish to yet a third body of water in a short period of time, it CAN stress the fish to the degree that the fishes immune system can be compromised leaving it open to infections and infestations. That's why it's best to QT all fish when first purchased. Also, fish do carry some internal diseases so you want to be able to medicate a specific fish for a specific disease if necessary. Not using a quarantine tank is just a crap shoot. Some get lucky, some do not.
Ich, while a disease, is really more of a sign that something's not right. It's the least evil of all the diseases in my opinion. You want to quarantine for a lot more reasons than just ich. I know that there are differing views on setting up a quarantine tank but in reality, you want to start with a clean system and that's done by setting up a new system everytime you use it. The best QT is a bare tank with an airstone for about the first week. You want to medicate and not have any substrate to absorb the meds or displace the water. Biological at this stage is really not necessary as you either won't be feeding or will be feeding sparingly. Once the fish has gone through the medicating stage, then it can go into a "holding" tank to make sure that it hasn't suffered any ill effects from the meds and that it is eating, getting stronger and acting healthy. This holding tank should be set up as a regular tank and should be biologically sound. The longer the fish is in this system the better as you will get to know the fishes needs over a longer period of time. (I've had people skip this stage only to have the fish break down from diseases they just were medicated for. They forgot about temp. change or water variables and stressed the fish out during the move starting the whole cycle all over again.)Then it can go into the display tank.
My last wholesale house had a marine biologist on staff and all he did was make the fish we got in the best they could possibly be. We only displayed the fish for sale after they had gone through the medicating stage. Our quarantine section was close to 1500 gals of water. That's how important quarantining really is. I'm sure a lot of stores out there do something similar.
I know it's a bit more work to do this this way but the bottom line is to save as many fish as possible isn't it? The average person should only need a bare 10 or 20 gal tank and maybe a slightly larger tank for holding unless they are buying large and xlarge fish.
Fish keeping, when done properly, can be very rewarding. It can also be extremely frustrating when done improperly. A little extra work on the front end will make for a much more enjoyable back end. My work rewarded me by having my fish long enough to watch them grow from Juv. to adulthood and thrive for many years.
Just my opinion...
Many LFS run copper through their FO tanks. That may help, but if the fish comes in on Thursday and is sold on Saturday, there's not enough time for copper to do anything.
QT before DT is the best way. I went a couple of years before getting Ich in my 125. I had take most of the rock out to get all the fish. What a pain. Then twice daily pwc's in QT due to overcrowding and an uncycled tank ( I now keep a filter in the sump that I can transfer to QT whenever the need arises). Oh, and daily vacuuming of the bare bottom to siphon out any protomonts or tomonts, along with detritus. Yes a lot of work, but for me it was worth it. Hope I didn't just jinx myself.
@Greg, I think we agree more than we disagree. I just don't want to leave folks with an impression that you don't need a combination QT/Hypo(for Ich)/good husbandry as parts of a long term successful tank.
... A lot of the wholesalers who the LFS get their fish from also run copper so how long the store had the fish isn't really the issue. What is is the fact that when you take a fish that has just arrived at a wholesale house and acclimated, then taken to a store and reacclimated, then purchased by the customer who also acclimates the fish to yet a third body of water in a short period of time, it CAN stress the fish to the degree that the fishes immune system can be compromised leaving it open to infections and infestations. That's why it's best to QT all fish when first purchased. Also, fish do carry some internal diseases so you want to be able to medicate a specific fish for a specific disease if necessary. Not using a quarantine tank is just a crap shoot. Some get lucky, some do not.
Ich, while a disease, is really more of a sign that something's not right. It's the least evil of all the diseases in my opinion. You want to quarantine for a lot more reasons than just ich. I know that there are differing views on setting up a quarantine tank but in reality, you want to start with a clean system and that's done by setting up a new system everytime you use it. The best QT is a bare tank with an airstone for about the first week. You want to medicate and not have any substrate to absorb the meds or displace the water. Biological at this stage is really not necessary as you either won't be feeding or will be feeding sparingly. Once the fish has gone through the medicating stage, then it can go into a "holding" tank to make sure that it hasn't suffered any ill effects from the meds and that it is eating, getting stronger and acting healthy. This holding tank should be set up as a regular tank and should be biologically sound. The longer the fish is in this system the better as you will get to know the fishes needs over a longer period of time. (I've had people skip this stage only to have the fish break down from diseases they just were medicated for. They forgot about temp. change or water variables and stressed the fish out during the move starting the whole cycle all over again.)Then it can go into the display tank.
My last wholesale house had a marine biologist on staff and all he did was make the fish we got in the best they could possibly be. We only displayed the fish for sale after they had gone through the medicating stage. Our quarantine section was close to 1500 gals of water. That's how important quarantining really is. I'm sure a lot of stores out there do something similar.
I know it's a bit more work to do this this way but the bottom line is to save as many fish as possible isn't it? The average person should only need a bare 10 or 20 gal tank and maybe a slightly larger tank for holding unless they are buying large and xlarge fish.
Fish keeping, when done properly, can be very rewarding. It can also be extremely frustrating when done improperly. A little extra work on the front end will make for a much more enjoyable back end. My work rewarded me by having my fish long enough to watch them grow from Juv. to adulthood and thrive for many years.
Just my opinion...