Nitrate API test

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Rolance

Aquarium Advice Freak
Joined
Mar 18, 2013
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450
Location
Louisiana
So I have been pretty happy with my API master testing kit except for the nitrate test. No matter how many water changes I do it always reads either 40 or 80ppm. Idk which because the colors on the chart look exactly the same. Anyone else have this problem and a solution? All my other readings are good. Ammo - 0ppm, nitrite - 0ppm
 
Are you shaking the #2 bottle correctly?! You really need to shake the crap out of it to get a true reading. I do have a tank that reads high for trAtes, my African tank, but that is because they are high and it takes multiple wc's a week to keep nitrates in check.
 
Nitrate Level

So I have been pretty happy with my API master testing kit except for the nitrate test. No matter how many water changes I do it always reads either 40 or 80ppm. Idk which because the colors on the chart look exactly the same. Anyone else have this problem and a solution? All my other readings are good. Ammo - 0ppm, nitrite - 0ppm

Hello Rol...

Nitrates are at the end of the "nitrogen cycle", so even your tank's level isn't something to fret over. At most, this level over a long period would be a slight irritation for your fish.

Nitrates are in most public water supplies and the vast majority of aquarium fish will adapt to the vast majority of tap water. Nitrates can be lowered by floating Anacharis (Brazilian Waterweed) in the tank. This plant is a nitrate "hog" and will thrive in your water conditions.

Keep up with your water changes. I change half the water in my tank every week and never test the tank water. I know by flushing a lot of pure, treated tap water through the tank, that alone will keep toxins to a minimum and guarantee stable water conditions.

Just a thought.

B
 
I had a similiar issue but instead of high readings I had 0. Def shake the bottle till your arm falls off. Check the water your replacing with, is it tap? You might have a decent amount of nitrates in your tap which would make it difficult to accomplish lowering nitrates on just 1 or two changes.
 
I have been doing a 40 - 50% water change every day to try to lower them. I haven't tested the tap nitrates. I might try that plant. I shake it pretty hard.
 
I have had the same problem recently, started a thread on here so check that out for a few more responses. It is really hard top tell the difference between 40 and 80 on the API test. My tap water contains c. 40-50ppm nitrate which is really annoying. Currently trying out some new plants to maybe get them down a little.
 
How long has your tank been cycled? With my 46g I had high nitrates for some reason for a few weeks after it had cycled. It took a while for them to drop below 10. My tap does have about 20 in it, I've added more plants over the months & the ones I had started growing well which helped. So if your tank is newly cycled it could take a little bit to really settle.
 
It's been cycled for a good while. At least 8 months. It's a small tank. 5 gallons. Imma get some plants to try and lower it I guess
 
Definitely test you tap water. Some people say plants don't lower it that much so would be good to work out where these nitrates are actually coming from, whether bioload or your tap.
 
So I have been pretty happy with my API master testing kit except for the nitrate test. No matter how many water changes I do it always reads either 40 or 80ppm. Idk which because the colors on the chart look exactly the same. Anyone else have this problem and a solution?

I was advised here that I needed to do larger pwc rather than more frequent smaller ones. This worked for me. (Thank you to those who gave said advice)

As for the 40ppm and 80ppm, on one hand I feel it doesn't matter, as either way its far too high, but on the other hand, I don't have confidence in a test that gives imprecise/ambiguous results. I have bought another brand of the nitrate test, so ill let you know if I find that easier to read..
 
What is that used for ? Is that seachem?

Yeah. From their website:

Purigen® is the highest capacity organic filtration resin on the market. No other products can compare to its ability to clear haziness and polish water to unparalleled clarity. Unlike other products on the market which are simple ion-exchange resins, Purigen® is specifically designed to be an organic scavenging resin. When ion-exchange resins are filled to capacity by metals and other contaminants, Purigen® has barely begun to reach its potential. Purigen® generally ignores simple elemental compounds, having an extreme affinity for nitrogenous organics. The primary source of nitrogenous compounds in an aquarium is waste. Fish, corals, even plants produce nitrogenous waste. Purigen® removes that waste faster and more completely than anything else on the market.
 
Before you start adding stuff just check your tap water. If that is the source then maybe try something chemical but if it is over stocking then it might just be a matter of upping your water changes.
 
I would like to suggest you research Seachem's Purigen or Fluval's Clearmax filter pouches. It will absorb most of the Nitrates that you are getting from high nitrate tap water giving you an even playing field in keeping your tank in spec. OS.
 
Of course, add what you like but if it was me I would try and find the cause before finding the solution. Just a thought. Good luck and let us know how you get on.
 
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