Ph Testing

[orNarain]

hello,

i need help to know how to do Ph test properly.

i read that u have to have the water sample from the tank sit for 24-48 hours so that stuff from it evaporates and u get a precise Ph reading.

when i test my water directly, i get Ph of 6.8 - 7.1 (depending on days [or maybe time of the day?]),
then after sitting for 24 hours i get 8 - 8.1 reading.

i have to inform that i have DIY CO2 running (hence the 'very low' initial Ph IMO)

from fish and plants i have, i worked out that my average Ph should be near 7.

My question is: Do i have to lower my Ph since its reading 8?

My confusion is that in 'real-time' the Ph is ~7 but when left sitting it jumps to ~8 and i dont know which value to consider. My CO2 runs 24h, my pumps and fans (wave maker - to disperse the bubbles and create mild current) are turned off 20 minutes per day during feeding.

Thanks.

 

[BBradbury]

hello,

i need help to know how to do Ph test properly.

i read that u have to have the water sample from the tank sit for 24-48 hours so that stuff from it evaporates and u get a precise Ph reading.

when i test my water directly, i get Ph of 6.8 - 7.1 (depending on days [or maybe time of the day?]),
then after sitting for 24 hours i get 8 - 8.1 reading.

i have to inform that i have DIY CO2 running (hence the 'very low' initial Ph IMO)

from fish and plants i have, i worked out that my average Ph should be near 7.

My question is: Do i have to lower my Ph since its reading 8?

My confusion is that in 'real-time' the Ph is ~7 but when left sitting it jumps to ~8 and i dont know which value to consider. My CO2 runs 24h, my pumps and fans (wave maker - to disperse the bubbles and create mild current) are turned off 20 minutes per day during feeding.

Thanks.

Hello or...

You don't need to worry about hard (basic) or soft (acidic) tap water, but the pH needs to be constant. Your fish and plants will adapt to the majority of public water supplies. All you need to do is treat the tap water for ammonia, chlorine and chloramines. SeaChem's "Prime" or one of the other brands will do.

CO2 is a nice addition if you know what you're doing with it, but it's not necessary for a nicely planted and healthy tank. I've never used it, so don't know if it's behind your water chemistry problems.

Lighting is most important to your plants, so research them to make sure you have the right amount. Ferts are important too, either you have a lot fish or you need to dose a liquid, dry or granule according to instructions.

Plants need high levels of minerals in the water, so change out half the tank water every week.

Hope this is helpful.

B

 

[orNarain]

Right! I will test ph for consistency more than value. Its in acceptable range anyways.

One question: I use collected rain water (ph 7 - 7.1) and treat with conditioner beforehand as well. I was wondering whether rain water has less minerals (or even if it has any) as compared to tap water which has gone through ground layers to collect minerals.