Plant Issues

[DC634]

Ok, I don't think I am going to have to add PO4. I have actually been using a media to try to lower those levels thinking I have to much PO4. How do I know if I have to much PO4? Is there a visible sign with the plants? Or just if the ratio is off? Or no ill effect at all?

Thank you for all the help. I have never been known for my patience lol. But, I am trying. I started to keep a well documented journal about a week and a half ago to see if I can see trends with what i dose.

 

[ZxC]

Too much PO4 won't hurt the plants, it could potentially aid (NOT CAUSE!) some algae, but not harm plants unless algae physically takes over.

Not a single successful planted tank that I know of using PO4 reducing media. That could be a big contributor to the issues in the pictures you've provided. Now that I'm looking into it, it does look like the start of PO4 deficiency.

 

[DC634]

Alright, I will take out the PO4 reducer and up the Macros and continue to monitor it closely to see what happens.

 

[ZxC]

Alright, I will take out the PO4 reducer and up the Macros and continue to monitor it closely to see what happens.

Obviously don't let PO4 get crazy high... It shouldn't unless you've got loads in your source water.

 

[DC634]

I'll be monitoring it.

What would you say is a good range for all nutrients? Well the ones I can test for.
Ammonia (0), Nitrite (0), Nitrate(30-40), Phosphate(2-3), Ph(?), GH(?), KH(?), Mg(?)

 

[ZxC]

I'll be monitoring it.

What would you say is a good range for all nutrients? Well the ones I can test for.
Ammonia (0), Nitrite (0), Nitrate(30-40), Phosphate(2-3), Ph(?), GH(?), KH(?), Mg(?)

Ammonia - 0ppm
Nitrite - 0ppm
NO3 - (10ppm after a 50% water change, 20ppm at weeks end) Ideally, you want to dose up ~20ppm-30ppm weekly totals (that would be 10ppm in the tank after a 50% water change + 10ppm from dosing throughout the week). Plant uptake should = fish waste ideally, and you're left with 20-30ppm at weeks end, cycle repeats. NO3 levels never reach mush past 20-30ppm.

pH - Doesn't really matter, high 5's - mid 6's after CO2 drops it by a full 1.0 would be best.
kH - 1 or lower
gH - 6-8 degrees, (30ppm Ca and 10-15ppm Mg)
Mg - Can't directly test for it, you need to use API saltwater Ca test kit to determine Ca ppm, then convert to degrees gH, then substrate from total gH. See your other thread here:
https://www.aquariumadvice.com/forums/f24/calculating-ca-371686.html

 

[DC634]

Alright, thanks. I did get the Ca kit and tested for that and tried the calculation but the results were not right just based off what the answer was. But now i know where i was off once looking back at it. I missed the part of 1 drop Ca bottle 2 equals 5 ppm. I ended up using the saltwater conversion which through my numbers WAY off lol. I will make sure I write all that down for future reference.

Wouldn't 1 dKH be to soft of water? Shouldn't it be a few dKH higher like 4-8ish? What would be the effect if its higher or lower?

 

[ZxC]

Wouldn't 1 dKH be to soft of water? Shouldn't it be a few dKH higher like 4-8ish? What would be the effect if its higher or lower?

No, 95% of plants prefer soft water, softer the better.

There is no ill effects of soft water, most fish (not African Cichlids) prefer soft, slightly acidic water, more nutrients are available in soft, slightly acidic water.

4-8 would be way to high if you have control over kH (access to RO water).

Higher kH = higher pH = higher TDS = Less nutrients in plant available forms = harder water (plants and fish prefer soft water).

1.0 degrees of kH is a safe level to avoid pH swings. pH crash is kind of a myth... never really seen it first hand, only poorly described horror stories.

50% weekly water changes with 1.0 degrees of kH is well in the safe zone.

 

[DC634]

I will need to test my tap and see what KH comes from there.
My last KH reading was 7 after a 50% water change.

 

[ZxC]

I will need to test my tap and see what KH comes from there.
My last KH reading was 7 after a 50% water change.

That level is fine, no issues. Like I said, if you have access to RO water it would be nice to drop kH, even 50 / 50 mix ( would = kH of 3.5 degrees).

But, it's not needed, your water isn't "soft" but it's not too hard either.

I've been successful with moderately hard to grow plants in very hard, kH - 15 water.

No worries.

 

[DC634]

Alright, that's good to know. Thanks for all the help