Question on my new tank

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luis_j

Aquarium Advice Apprentice
Joined
Feb 11, 2013
Messages
24
Location
Florida
Hello everyone,

I just recently joined the forum in hope for advice. I have a 15 gallon freshwater tank with 2 platys, 3 julii cory catfish, and 1 dwarf gourami. The problem is that my tank is cloudy and I wanted to know if there's a way for me to fix that. I have had the tank for 3 weeks. ph levels are 6.8 to 7, nitrite levels are 0, nitrAte levels are also 0, and ammonia levels are 0. I'm using sand (which was thoroughly washed before putting in) instead of gravel. There is no live plants in my aquarium except for the marimo moss ball which I added today. The decorations were washed thoroughly. I also have a bubble maker and I'm using the filter that came in with the aquarium (aqueon 15 gallon column). That's all the info was able to come up wit, if you guys need anymore just let me know. I just wanted to find out why my tank is cloudy and what can i do to fix it.

Thanks,

Luis
 
Hi Luis,

In a non-planted tank, there is usually some trace of nitrate. The ammonia and nitrite levels are good; but I'm curious, how did you cycle the tank?

The cloudy water you are seeing is most likely due to an explosion of heterotrophic bacteria. Is it possible that you are feeding too much? If so, cut down on the feeding and concentrate on gravel vacs when doing water changes. The cloudy water will soon go away. In the meantime, drop the water level so there's more of a splash and/or add a bubbler. Heterotrophic bacteria consume lots of oxygen...oxygen that your fish and beneficial bacteria need.

David
 
Hi Luis,

In a non-planted tank, there is usually some trace of nitrate. The ammonia and nitrite levels are good; but I'm curious, how did you cycle the tank?

The cloudy water you are seeing is most likely due to an explosion of heterotrophic bacteria. Is it possible that you are feeding too much? If so, cut down on the feeding and concentrate on gravel vacs when doing water changes. The cloudy water will soon go away. In the meantime, drop the water level so there's more of a splash and/or add a bubbler. Heterotrophic bacteria consume lots of oxygen...oxygen that your fish and beneficial bacteria need.

David

Hello David!

I used the API test tubes and the results for nitrate is always zero. The results for the water in my first post were taken today in the morning. I cycled my tank for a week before introducing any fish. BTW, my water was crystal clear when there were no fish. I wanted the water levels to be perfect before adding any fish. When they were, I introduced the 2 platys. After I did that, my ph levels were high (around 7.5 to 8). When I added the platys, that's when my water got cloudy. I waited a few days in hope that it was just a bacteria, but it has not gone away. With the water changes I have done the ph levels are now back to normal. I have also tried a aqua clear recommended by my LPS, but it has not worked. As far as feeding, I feed the fish 2 to 3 times a day and I only feed them a pinch of food. I even watch them eat and I'm able to notice that they eat everything. I already have a bubbler in my tank. Also, what do you mean to drop down water levels?

thanks and I appreciate your help.

Luis
 
Hi Luis,

Check the expiration date on your test kit. I have a feeling you're going to run into some water quality issues as I don't think this tank has been properly cycled.

Whether the water is clear or not has nothing to do with the cycle. New tanks go through a nitrogen cycle, which is inevitable unless a shortcut was taken, e.g. borrowing filter media, bottled bacteria, etc.

As the fish breathe and produce waste, ammonia will present itself. A certain kind of bacteria will consume that ammonia and will then turn it into nitrite. Then another kind of bacteria will consume the nitrite and turn it into nitrate. There are only a few ways to get around the cycling process; and from what I've read, I don't think they have been implemented.

Have you ever seen any ammonia or nitrites from this tank?

David
 
Hi David,

My test kit expires on 2017 and as far as I am aware, I have not taken any shortcuts. I did put in a bio-magnet packet in my fish tank for bacteria and tank water clarification. I also bought pre-condition water from LPS once to do water changes. I have seem some ammonia in my tank. To be specific, the ammonia right now is between 0 and .25, but as far as nitrite and nitrate is been zero.
 
Hi David,

My test kit expires on 2017 and as far as I am aware, I have not taken any shortcuts. I did put in a bio-magnet packet in my fish tank for bacteria and tank water clarification. I also bought pre-condition water from LPS once to do water changes. I have seem some ammonia in my tank. To be specific, the ammonia right now is between 0 and .25, but as far as nitrite and nitrate is been zero.

I have herd that using the API liquid tests can give a false 0 Nitrate reading when one of the three bottles is not shaken rapidly enough before use???! Shake the bottle really vigorously for at least a minute and see If this makes a difference ( I think it is bottle 2 that needs shaken before use?) hope this helps.
 
I have herd that using the API liquid tests can give a false 0 Nitrate reading when one of the three bottles is not shaken rapidly enough before use???! Shake the bottle really vigorously for at least a minute and see If this makes a difference ( I think it is bottle 2 that needs shaken before use?) hope this helps.

I do shake it vigorously for a minute.... :(
 
I forgot to ask, how could I have cycled the tank? and how does someone knows when the cycle is complete?
 
I forgot to ask, how could I have cycled the tank? and how does someone knows when the cycle is complete?
I don't think you did, hence my inquisition. You'll know the cycle is complete when you've seen the ammonia and nitrite rise (not in tandem, but they'll overlap at the end of one and beginning of the other) and then come back down with the end result being elevated nitrates.

The nitrates will rise as more ammonia is produced. You can reduce the nitrates by doing water changes or adding live plants (the plants need the nitrogen for cell growth). You can also lower nitrates through denitrification, but that's another topic which is a bit more complicated to explain and is best practiced by more advanced aquarists.

The links librarygirl posted are great. If you read everything and fully understand it, you're well on your way to successful fishkeeping! You're going to have questions as you continue on, so please keep them coming.

David
 
Hello,

Thank you everyone for trying to help me. I will definitely take advantage of this information and put into practice. One more thing, when I'm feeding the fish, the fish of course, will eat every piece of food they can find. My problem is that my three julii cory catfish fish are not eating because the other fish are eating their food pellets. Maybe one will get a few bites from the pellet, but the rest are always hiding and I never see them eat. Also, since now i know my tank is not cycle, I don't think there's enough algae for them to eat. Any help please?
 
hello,

thank you everyone for trying to help me. I will definitely take advantage of this information and put into practice. One more thing, when i'm feeding the fish, the fish of course, will eat every piece of food they can find. My problem is that my three julii cory catfish fish are not eating because the other fish are eating their food pellets. Maybe one will get a few bites from the pellet, but the rest are always hiding and i never see them eat. Also, since now i know my tank is not cycle, i don't think there's enough algae for them to eat. Any help please?

bump for help
 
Maybe try blanched zucchini or cucumber weighted to the bottom of the tank, or try sticking an algae/bottom feeder tablet in one of their caves

Also Cory's aren't known to eat much algae so don't rely on that and always feed them like any other fish
 
Are your catfish active after lights out? If so you can them when the tank is dark because the other fish will probably be less active & less likely to eat the catfish food.
 
I'm going to try to feed them the algae pellets. BTW, will the other fish try to eat the algae pellets? Unfortunately, the catfish are not that active at night. They are most active right after the water tank from my aquarium has been changed. Right now I'm doing water changes every other day. Also, if the cat fish aren't known to eat much algae, then what will be the point of feeding them the algae pellets instead of the regular pellets? Thank you guys for the help and I will definitely keep you guys updated. On a side note, ammonia levels in my tank is .25 so hopefully the cycling will begin soon.

Thanks,

Luis
 
I'm going to try to feed them the algae pellets. BTW, will the other fish try to eat the algae pellets? Unfortunately, the catfish are not that active at night. They are most active right after the water tank from my aquarium has been changed. Right now I'm doing water changes every other day. Also, if the cat fish aren't known to eat much algae, then what will be the point of feeding them the algae pellets instead of the regular pellets? Thank you guys for the help and I will definitely keep you guys updated. On a side note, ammonia levels in my tank is .25 so hopefully the cycling will begin soon.

Thanks,

Luis

I've never had any Cory's eat algae in my tanks, they're bottom feeders not glass suckers like otos or plecos so the point of an algae wafer is to be on the substrate. They may or may not like the algae wafers so I also suggested bottom feeder tablets which are similar but have some different ingredients, the point of these would be if your fish are eating the Cory's food then the tablets may be easier to place them somewhere the Cory's go but the other fish don't. Hope you can figure all this stuff out! Cory's are really neat little guys
 
Alright, I will try to figure something out. Here are some of the pictures of my tank. Just wanted to show you guys where they hide. As you can see in the picture, is really hard for me to feed them because they are really hidden. I will definitely buy the algae pellets. Usually the pellets fall in front of the jars and the catfish never get to eat because the other fish will eat them right after eating their food. The catfish just hides behind the jars and they rarely come out. (see pic) I'll see what I can do.

Thanks,

Luis
 

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When I feed my fish I sprinkle their food near the filter output and the force of water pulls it under and the tetras snatch it on the way down(when in the middle tank area) and my cory's wait bellow like puppies and get all the bits that land on the gravel! If this doesn't work for you what about feeding your other fish as normal and while they are distracted place a wafer very close to your cory's?? Hope u find something that works :-/
 
Hello again!

I have a few questions I hope you guys can answer.

1. Is it important to have algae in the tank for the Cory's to supplement their food? I know that too much algae is bad, but is too little algae bad? How do i know how much algae I have in my tank?

2. Once the tank is established, do we need to change 15-20% of the water only ONCE a month? If so, won't there be an overload of fish poop? As it is, there is alot after only a couple of days. (2 red wag platys, 1 dwarf gourami, 3 julli cory)

3. How do I know if we are overfeeding our fish? We give ONE small pinch in the morning along with ONE wafer for the corys. We repeat the same at night right before bedtime/turning lights off.

4. I think one of my plattys is pregnant! and she is pooping like there's no tomorrow! Does that mean she is about to give birth?

5. If she is pregnant and about to give birth would it affect our cycle at all? Also, I don't want baby fish. Is there anything I can do?


Thank you guys. BTW, I started feeding my corys at night and yes they do eat! But they don't eat the whole algae wafer. I'm going to try to find small wafers because the algae wafers are huge!

Thank you,

Luis
 
Hello again!

I have a few questions I hope you guys can answer.

1. Is it important to have algae in the tank for the Cory's to supplement their food? I know that too much algae is bad, but is too little algae bad? How do i know how much algae I have in my tank?

2. Once the tank is established, do we need to change 15-20% of the water only ONCE a month? If so, won't there be an overload of fish poop? As it is, there is alot after only a couple of days. (2 red wag platys, 1 dwarf gourami, 3 julli cory)

3. How do I know if we are overfeeding our fish? We give ONE small pinch in the morning along with ONE wafer for the corys. We repeat the same at night right before bedtime/turning lights off.

4. I think one of my plattys is pregnant! and she is pooping like there's no tomorrow! Does that mean she is about to give birth?

5. If she is pregnant and about to give birth would it affect our cycle at all? Also, I don't want baby fish. Is there anything I can do?

Thank you guys. BTW, I started feeding my corys at night and yes they do eat! But they don't eat the whole algae wafer. I'm going to try to find small wafers because the algae wafers are huge!

Thank you,

Luis

Hey!
First off, Cory's should be fine without algae in the tank, keep feeding the same kind of wafers they like, you can also try breaking them in half if you want.

2. You want to do weekly water changes and maintenance to keep your fish as healthy as they can be, how much your weekly water changes are will depend on how much and how fast your nitrates build up. You want to keep them below 20ppm and the less nitrates in your water the better unless you have live plants.

3. Only feed as much as your fish can eat in 3-5 minutes daily or as much as they can eat in 5 minutes every other day. Most aquarium owners over feed their fish compared to what they get in the wild, but to what degree is the key.

4. If your platy is pregnant and you don't care about keeping the fry then just let nature take its course. You will know when it's about to give birth by a dark spot (gravid spot) in her abdomen and she will get a very big belly that is squared off at the bottom. If you want to keep the fry then move her to a breeder box/net before she gives birth, but try not to exceed 24 hours because it will stress her out.
5. Births won't effect your cycle, fry have almost 0 bioload, that is until they grow and then their bioload grows too, but you shouldn't notice any change.
 
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